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Ritter

Wheel Horse 312-A (1986) 42" Side Discharge with Pictures

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Ritter

I recently acquired a 312-A w/a 42" side discharge deck.   It's loud as heck, so I need to remove and check the spindles.   My main issue is that little lever that moves the deck wheels up and down has come off the unit and I'm not sure how it goes back on.  (I'm presuming there was a spring or something there that held it on)  Further, it looks like there are little 'stay pins' on the rod that the blade deck wheels connect to.  They appear worn away, so the deck wheels just slide back and forth freely.

 

I've tried to look at the diagrams, but they are too grainy up close to discern how it goes back together and what parts I need to fix.

 

Any assistance with some close up pictures of the deck/lever/wheel mechanism would be GREATLY appreciated.   I've posted pictures of the tractor in an earlier post.   Thanks!

Edited by Ritter

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gwest_ca

Not necessarily the exact model you have but good place to start.

Click on the fuzzy picture

Garry

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Ritter

Thanks for the reply.  I’m wondering if the bracket that controls height of the wheels is on correct (maybe PO had it welded on).   I appreciate the diagrams, but still not enough clarity to see how the wheel lifter mechanism goes together. 

 

I put some pictures below.  

 

On the next thread,  I show you the picture of my other WheelHorse

782884A8-C0C9-48A0-80CE-AA2891AC894D.jpeg

7E421A1F-278A-4E2A-A4B5-7B9608FBA5D2.jpeg

EB35F00E-9F36-4F89-925E-D94BFDB75294.jpeg

Edited by Ritter

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Ritter

Here is the lever on my other Wheel Horse

 

The lever mechanism housing faces in. 

 

Any help would be appreciated!

F0B5D867-4552-4F78-8AA3-AAAC37DACB2E.jpeg

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Ritter

I noticed underneath is also mangled.   This fix is going to be interesting:

 

 

408F04AC-5700-4C64-8F5F-D13BB0CA3B56.jpeg

97B198DE-4536-4D70-BABD-F31A689CE1A6.jpeg

86B70A6A-BA9F-4553-B8DC-A8A973CE601F.jpeg

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gwest_ca

If man made it man can fix it.

I would start with 2 big adjustable wrenches closed up on the metal. One to hold the panel where it is good and one to start bending it back into shape. Just work your way along from the good part.

Once it is close to the correct shape take the wrinkles out with a hammer and dolly.

 

Garry

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Ritter

I’ll try that today, Garry.   Thanks.  

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Lee1977

I have a 48" with the baffles removed I cut just about as good as the one I have with them. 

On the height adjuster some one welded the 3/8" rod in backwards.  There should be a short side on the rod that fits into the hole on the top of the channel and a spring fit on the long side. The bent end fit in the channel also. In the picture above the adjuster handle is in backwards.

Edited by Lee1977

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Ritter

Took Garry’s advice and worked on the baffles 

 

 

B0D29CBB-D767-4618-8048-6E9AB052720F.jpeg

C10944EB-AA20-49E7-AF88-3E768EF34DF2.jpeg

 

7F83A737-7D7B-4A74-9FD1-4910EAB55E97.jpeg

Edited by Ritter

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Ritter

Now trying to spruce up the deck a little bit. 

CC88F1C2-4C80-4789-9C8D-50F94994D94A.jpeg

55CB72D3-8F1E-4533-B090-E652A2DEF194.jpeg

D174C7A8-A75D-45F6-9C9F-7EC945F839E3.jpeg

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Ritter

This deck goes on to the Wheel Horse in the front.    I’m really struggling with deck height problem.   PO must have severely bent deck.   Even on highest setting, the blades scalp so badly, the grass is almost all gone. 

1C260494-D98E-4237-8B1B-97426217EC44.jpeg

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Ritter

I need to figure out how to get more deck height in the rear.  I’ll reconnect everything and show you all the clearance from blade to ground.  

 

 

C25CB938-C6E3-4809-BCF2-AD1D91499A48.jpeg

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peter lena

looks like that rear side adjustment  rod is much too long, coming from the lift bracket to the rear of the deck. the rods on my decks are much shorter, giving me much easier adjustment. overall , your deck has been frankinized , with brutal impacts and made up repairs. i used a cutting wheel to remove the similar rotted baffles on my deck, glad to see you got new blades. you can use the pictures on this site for reference to deck set up. i would rebuild or replace all spindles, rebuilding is cheaper, replace idler pulley ,any other area, might be cheaper to get a better used deck. you have a lot to deal with here . good luck with it , pete 

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Lee1977

 Over half of the height adjuster is missing. That is the reason It's low in the back

 

SAM-0960.jpg

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Ritter

Thanks @Lee1977.   The height adjuster looks like its on a bent deck.  I did my best to bang out, and the results are better.   I know I‘m missing the chute at the end of the deck, making the blade dangerously close to your foot. 

 

Any suggestions to get more height are appreciated.  I‘m trying to get it back to normal.  

 

 

19FF90DD-1392-4FFF-97D1-ED677FF9EFE4.jpeg

4A3E6D50-F518-4DF3-8A4F-D88D4E638815.jpeg

3BA40AD6-6630-4C95-9FCB-2933A5B597BC.jpeg

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tunahead72
On ‎6‎/‎30‎/‎2019 at 11:39 AM, Ritter said:

 

...   I know I‘m missing the chute at the end of the deck, making the blade dangerously close to your foot...

 

19FF90DD-1392-4FFF-97D1-ED677FF9EFE4.jpeg

4A3E6D50-F518-4DF3-8A4F-D88D4E638815.jpeg

3BA40AD6-6630-4C95-9FCB-2933A5B597BC.jpeg

 

By "chute", I assume you mean the extension?  I wouldn't worry about that, lots of us use our mowers on a regular basis without them.

 

I think the bigger issue is that it looks like somebody cut the opening straight across for some reason.  The deck originally would have had a more rounded profile on top at the opening, check out Lee1977's photo in his June 25th post for comparison.  Yours is much straighter, I think that's why your blades are so dangerously close to the opening.

 

How long are your new blades?  They should each be pretty close to 14" long.

 

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