klink 20 #1 Posted June 18, 2019 Hi Guys I recently bought a C101 tractor at an auction. One of the defects is the transmission oil leak at the brake shaft. I'm looking for oil seal replacement help. Such as do I need to split the transmission and if so which side of the transmission should I face down in the vise in order to lift the other half up to open. Is there any other items to replace while I'm repairing the transmission? Any and all advice help is welcome. I got the tractor running after installing a new set of points. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #2 Posted June 18, 2019 Nice find. You do not need to remove the transmission to get that seal out. I'm not very good at verbalizing what I do to take one of those seals out but basically I use 1/4 inch screwdriver and kind of smash into the seal and then use the holes that I've made as my leverage points. There are others that use a regular seal puller and that is probably the better way to do it but I don't have one nor do I know how to use it. Be sure to thoroughly clean or better yet replace the brake shoe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,337 #3 Posted June 18, 2019 (edited) I would be real careful also of the needle bearing immediately behind the seal. I have destroyed one before . A small screw driver with a small hook on the end should do the trick.put grease on the shaft and seal and use a socket a little bigger than the shaft to gently tap it back in place. Good luck! oh and to Edited June 18, 2019 by The Tool Crib 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
klink 20 #4 Posted June 18, 2019 (edited) Thanks Guys for getting back to me. drained oil out of trans-axle. Then I got the old oil seal out by drilling 3 small holes in the outer metal part of the oil seal and picked out with a scribe tool. I will be buying a new seal soon. I also put on a new main shift rod rubber boot. Thanks Edited June 19, 2019 by klink update 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
klink 20 #5 Posted June 26, 2019 I bought 2 seals, but only needed the one. I got the new oil seal and brake drum installed. I may have more questions in the future as I go through the restoration of the C-101. Thank you for your support. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #6 Posted June 26, 2019 1 minute ago, klink said: I may have more questions in the future as I go through the restoration of the C-101. Thank you for your support. That's what we're all here for! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moe1965 744 #7 Posted June 28, 2019 If you are that far I would also replace the axle seals as well 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
George Gadach 1 #8 Posted January 17, 2020 I also have an transmission oil leak at the brake shaft differential case. The 8 speed C-101 mower transmission is an Eaton Uni Drive. Can somebody provide info where I can purchase the seal? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #9 Posted January 18, 2020 1 hour ago, George Gadach said: I also have an transmission oil leak at the brake shaft differential case. The 8 speed C-101 mower transmission is an Eaton Uni Drive. Can somebody provide info where I can purchase the seal? George, you can find a seal cross reference thread pinned at the top of the transmission section. That'll have what you need to bring a number to your local parts store. Or..... You can contact our own vendor... Wheelhorsepartsandmore.com Lowell and Joette will fix you right up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,863 #10 Posted January 18, 2020 Are you sure you have an Eaton transmission in a manual tractor?? All the Eatons are in auto horses. You should have the Wheel Horse #103916 brake shaft seal is SKF 7410. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
klink 20 #11 Posted January 21, 2020 Hi Guys Sorry for not getting back with after restoration pics, I know that I enjoy pics of all other tractors. So here is 3 pics of winter storage. I hope to get some more out to you this coming spring. BTW, on warm winter days I go around my 2 storage barns and take turns starting and running all my tractors, so as to keep them from long storage engine problems, along with fuel stabilizers. 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #12 Posted January 21, 2020 12 minutes ago, klink said: stabilizers Stabilizers are great. Do you have access to non ethanol fuel? Thanks for sharing those pics!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
klink 20 #13 Posted January 21, 2020 Yes, I do have access to non ethanol fuel and last summer [2019] I started using non ethanol fuel in my older garden tractors. Now concerning newer Garden tractors, such as my John Deere X540 & X580 mowing tractors, I'm not sure if I should use it in them, since they were engineered with non ethanol fuel in mind. I also use non ethanol in my little 2017 walk behind Simplicity snow blower for 2 1/2 years. I use it in my old classic farm tractors. I think it is the way to go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,345 #14 Posted January 21, 2020 2 minutes ago, klink said: they were engineered with non ethanol fuel in mind They were engineered to "tolerate" it longer than pre E engines. The seals and gaskets are more resistant to it's damage. Still shouldn't use it. It will still do damage to aluminum and ethanol pearls will still have the capability of clogging up the fuel system. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckeyes 214 #15 Posted January 22, 2020 (edited) I personally use non ethanol in all my tractors. Generally anything that is carbureted. I don't even like running ethanol in any vehicle that wasn't designed to use it (E-85 compliant). But that is just my opinion. Edited January 22, 2020 by buckeyes 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
