Rubber Belting used as Underlayment

[Mows4three 826]

Hello Red Square.

 

I am seeking some input from RS members with construction backgrounds and who currently, or formerly, earn(ed) a living from swinging a hammer or running a Skillsaw.   

 

We are building a 16' X 16' steel sided and steel roofed pole barn with a gravel floor.  We will be storing tools and equipment in this shed and it will be unheated.  I would like to keep as much moisture as possible from infiltrating through the gravel floor.  We will use a 2" X 12" bottom girt on each of the four sides to contain the gravel.   The final grade of the floor will be 6" - 8" higher than the lawn around the building.  

 

I have access to a roll of used mine belting that is 1/2" thick by 40" wide.   There is enough belting to line the floor of the shed.  

 

My questions are:

 

Does it make sense to deposit 3" of 2B gravel with modified, level the gravel, lay down the belting and then deposit 5" of gravel to finish the grade?   Do you think this idea provides enough of a barrier to reduce the infiltration of moisture from the ground?

 

I would appreciate your thoughts and any suggested modifications of this plan. 

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[JAinVA 4,629]

If the belting is available use it but make sure to overlap at the seams about 2".If laid edge to edge it won't be as effective.If you didn't have the belting available I would say use 6mil poly lapped about four to six inches.

Edited June 3, 2019 by JAinVA

[ZXT 2,401]

Obviously, the further off the ground you are, the less problem with moisture you'll have. Personally, I would probably lay down some sort of thin plastic barrier on top of all of the gravel, and then have the rubber belt as the top wear surface. 

 

This is coming with someone with a background in construction, but take it with a grain of salt, as a plain dirt floor is generally enough to keep the moisture out around here! 

[ebinmaine 70,792]

7 hours ago, Mows4three said:

There is enough belting to line the floor of the shed.  

 

My questions are:

 

Does it make sense to deposit 3" of 2B gravel with modified, level the gravel, lay down the belting and then deposit 5" of gravel to finish the grade?   Do you think this idea provides enough of a barrier to reduce the infiltration of moisture from the ground?

 

Around here (we have a rough ground surface)  it definitely makes sense to create level/flat first by dropping a thin layer of gravel.

Your anti moisture permeation layer would be better able to do it's job.

 

This sounds like a perfectly reasonable way to bring the evaporation/condensation down about as much as you can.

 

 

7 hours ago, JAinVA said:

overlap at the seams ....... four to six inches

 

 

Dave do you have enough belt material to overlap the 4 to 6?

 

[JoeM 7,940]

We lay mine belt on top of gravel in my Dad's garage 35 years ago, butted the seams and worked great. As a matter of fact, my brother just commented last month about how well it has worked. He lives in the old home place now and I know he stored a classic car there for about 20 years, not and issue. I do remember we cut the belt and left it out in the sun to "relax", It lay flatter. Could spike it down with barn spikes too I suppose.

[wallfish 17,507]

I'm with ZXT and Oiluj52. Gravel or stone base tamped down, cover with a layer of tamped sand or silt to level it,(Like installing pavers) cover with 6 or even 12 mil plastic for a moisture barrier and use the belting as the floor surface if it will lay flat. That stuff is rugged tough. Butt the seems together so it's flat and you can use adhesive to stick it to the plastic and seal the butt seems

If you make the floor with stone or gravel do not go too deep with it as everything will just sink into it.

This is coming from a backyard hammer mechanic so

[Mows4three 826]

Thanks for the input, fellas.   I have plenty of belting and even more is available if needed.    There's enough on the roll I have to lap it by 4" - 6".  Good to hear some of you have already used it in this manner.   Looks like it's Full Speed Ahead on this project.   

 

I appreciate the comments and thanks again!

 

Dave

[ohiofarmer 3,333]

TCompacted gravel is a great idea. Using a plate compactor even better.

 

 My only other suggestion would be to cut s one  foot wide strip and lay it under the seam so the joint is flat. Perhaps glue or screw the top seam to the strip to keep it flat.

[stevasaurus 23,072]

If you really want a good, cheap floor...check to see if you can buy the ground up black-top instead of gravel.  This stuff still has enough tar in it that it tamps into the perfect floor.  It will set up just like black-top and you can drive equipment on it and not leave impressions.  You would not need the belts then and 3 to 4" of the black-top is enough to seal the floor. 

[1995 520H+96+97 937]

Ground up black top is called millings, millings run through a cone crusher are called black sand and will pack, and is easier to spread and level.

Edited June 10, 2019 by 1995 520H+96+97