Help! 1975 C160 Solenoid

[ebinmaine 68,425]

10 minutes ago, Jack45 said:

What is the difference between a DVOM/Test light and a volt meter? Just testing for connection right?

 

Exactly. D v o m stands for digital volt ohm meter.

 

Test light works fine for most of the tests on these old tractors but you do occasionally need to test the actual voltage or ohm reading.

[Jack45 69]

I ran the DVOM around between the switch and different spots and I think the issue might be there. I had my son turn the key while I tested and the volts dropped to zero when it was turned to crank between the switch and solenoid.  I am going to hit my local hardware store tomorrow and see if they have one in stock.

[ebinmaine 68,425]

4 hours ago, Jack45 said:

I ran the DVOM around between the switch and different spots and I think the issue might be there. I had my son turn the key while I tested and the volts dropped to zero when it was turned to crank between the switch and solenoid.  I am going to hit my local hardware store tomorrow and see if they have one in stock.

Be sure to get the correct one...

Many have an M terminal.

NOT correct.

You need the one with a B terminal.

 

M is for Magneto ... You have a Battery type points ignition.

 

Please do NOT get what they sell as a "universal".

That'll have posts instead of the correct blades. It isn't worth trying to rewire to make it work.

If no one in town has it you can order it and have one in a couple days.

 

[wallfish 17,082]

Instead of just throwing in parts and hoping for the best, test that switch with your meter. Remove the switch and set your meter to continuity -->. The meter will beep when the leads are connected. Connect leads to terminal B (battery) and terminal S (start). When you turn the key to the start position, the meter should beep which indicates there is continuity. The terminal I should have continuity from terminal B with the key in both run and start positions. If your switch is working the problem is elsewhere. If it is not then it's already removed for replacing.

Terminal R is for the charging Regulator

A is for Accessory

B is for Battery

 If you need a new switch you will need one for battery ignition. It should have a terminal marked with an "i" for ignition. Look at your old switch and match it up so the posts are all in the correct position for connector.

 

There should be a safety switch for the pedal which prevents starting unless the the pedal is pushed down.

 

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

You need the one with a B terminal.

Eric meant   I   not B as both types will have a B terminal for the Battery

[ebinmaine 68,425]

17 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Eric meant   I   not B as both types will have a B terminal for the Battery

YESSS.

 

Thanks John!

[Razorback 1,035]

On 5/13/2019 at 4:54 PM, Jack45 said:

New solenoid didn't fix problem. I am not seeing a safety switch or any wire going to the PTO. Could it be that regulator? How often do they go out?

 

Is your C160 like mine (mine is a 1974 C160 geared)..... manual pto lever on the right that you use to engage an attachment?? Near the pivot point for that lever is a safety switch mounted to the tower that is engaged by a flat piece of spring steel. That switch has to be “made” before the tractor will even attempt to start. It’s a safety feature so you don’t start the tractor with an attachment engaged.

Edited May 15, 2019 by Razorback

[Jack45 69]

My volt meter doesn't have a continuity switch but I took the switch out anyway just to see if I could reset it somehow. I plugged it back in and the engine started up for less than a minute and then died.  I got it to start again and it was sounding normal but then it died again. This machine has never been cold blooded in past. After that, the machine would not start again. I am not seeing any current between B and I on the switch when it is plugged in. I will be running into town shortly to get a new switch.

 

I am pretty sure I have the manual PTO.  I have the lever on right hand side but nothing that looks like a switch.

[ebinmaine 68,425]

6 minutes ago, Jack45 said:

lever on right hand side but nothing that looks like a switch

Jack, follow those rods back to the steering Tower and look right in beside the gas tank area. Maybe below it. There should be a switch that is activated by some sort of movement of that manual PTO lever.

[Razorback 1,035]

When I get home from work, I will try to get a good picture of the switch that eb and I are trying to point you to....

[Razorback 1,035]

This is the best I can do without being at my C160.... this pic is on the left side of the tractor.... you see the lift arm at the bottom of the picture.... see the c-clip at 10 o’clock??? That clip is on the end of the pto lever shaft. Follow that through to the other side and you’ll be right on the area of the PTO safety switch. (Under that c-clip is where I installed a thicker washer to make the other end contact that switch better.... fixed my no-crank issue).

 

 

Edited May 15, 2019 by Razorback

[Jack45 69]

I think I found the problem. I started cleaning every electrical contact. The positive wire going into the Amp meter was melted. Not sure how that happened but the amp meter didn't work and it was warm to the touch. I chipped a bit of the plastic away and shined up the contact. Put it back together and now she runs. The plastic plug is melted a bit and I will have to replace the amp meter and the wire and plug going to it soon but everything seems to be starting and running fine now. In a worse case scenario, I think I can just snip those plugs off and hard wire them together bypassing that amp meter altogether.

 

I did look closer at that PTO and I notice she runs whether the handle is pulled or not all the time. There was no switch there or other electrical wire anywhere near that pto lever shaft.  I am guessing this may not be normal. I don't have any pto equipment. A local guy has a tiller and snowblower for a C-161 that I might check out and see if it is compatible though. I have a mower deck but have never hooked it up. 

 

I really appreciate all the help I got here. Now I gotta get the girl back to work. 

[ebinmaine 68,425]

5 minutes ago, Jack45 said:

I think I found the problem. I started cleaning every electrical contact. The positive wire going into the Amp meter was melted. Not sure how that happened but the amp meter didn't work and it was warm to the touch. I chipped a bit of the plastic away and shined up the contact. Put it back together and now she runs. The plastic plug is melted a bit and I will have to replace the amp meter and the wire and plug going to it soon but everything seems to be starting and running fine now. In a worse case scenario, I think I can just snip those plugs off and hard wire them together bypassing that amp meter altogether.

 

I did look closer at that PTO and I notice she runs whether the handle is pulled or not all the time. There was no switch there or other electrical wire anywhere near that pto lever shaft.  I am guessing this may not be normal. I don't have any pto equipment. A local guy has a tiller and snowblower for a C-161 that I might check out and see if it is compatible though. I have a mower deck but have never hooked it up. 

 

I really appreciate all the help I got here. Now I gotta get the girl back to work. 

Jack, great job getting that thing running again!

 

We, meaning you, ..

we REALLY NEED TO DO ONE MORE THING. Let's go ahead and get the an ammeter out of the circuit right now.

 

DON'T WAIT. DO THIS TONIGHT. 

 

That has the great and honest potential of melting your tractor right where it sits.

 

Just take one of the terminals off and put it right to the other terminal.