Cadmandu 67 #1 Posted April 19, 2019 Hi all I watched some vids on you tube and saw a method using soapy water and one using the hi ge method no water and a guy just holding it up and applying it to a clean surface. These decals have a sticky backing 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
67 WH 877 62 #2 Posted April 19, 2019 Just bought my decals from them last night. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cadmandu 67 #3 Posted April 19, 2019 They are really nice I even got a serial number for under my seat 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
67 WH 877 62 #4 Posted April 19, 2019 Ill half to look up those vids...thanks for posting! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cadmandu 67 #5 Posted April 19, 2019 (edited) I like the hinge method best. I'm going to take my hood off so I can do a better job. While it is off I can service my fuel pump. Put the front one on first so the side ones can meet. Edited April 19, 2019 by Cadmandu Added some stuff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,578 #6 Posted April 19, 2019 the soap and water method allows you to fix a goof up a lot easier the the dry method, just saying .... eric j 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cadmandu 67 #7 Posted April 19, 2019 How does the sticky side stay sticky with the soapy water on it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vinylguy 4,687 #8 Posted April 19, 2019 57 minutes ago, Cadmandu said: Hi all I watched some vids on you tube and saw a method using soapy water and one using the hi ge method no water and a guy just holding it up and applying it to a clean surface. These decals have a sticky backing The decals are made using high performance vehicle wrap digital printed Arlon media. It has an air egress adhesive technology that allows for easy dry install. Yes the adhesive will work once the decals have been applied. Always wipe your surface with isopropyl alcohol before installing even if you are doing a wet install. This material is repositionable and you can easily rub out air pockets with your thumb should the need arise. If you manage to mess one up beyond use just contact me and I will send you a replacement. Thanks for saving another Horse 8 4 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,338 #9 Posted April 19, 2019 19 minutes ago, Vinylguy said: The decals are made using high performance vehicle wrap digital printed Arlon media. It has an air egress adhesive technology that allows for easy dry install. Yes the adhesive will work once the decals have been applied. Always wipe your surface with isopropyl alcohol before installing even if you are doing a wet install. This material is repositionable and you can easily rub out air pockets with your thumb should the need arise. If you manage to mess one up beyond use just contact me and I will send you a replacement. Thanks for saving another Horse Many thanx to you Terry !! Excellent quality! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cadmandu 67 #10 Posted April 19, 2019 Thanks so you can use the soapy water method and the adhesive will still dry. I love the decals and the service Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vinylguy 4,687 #11 Posted April 19, 2019 Many people do the wet application but I always prefer dry when possible. Windex without ammonia drys quicker. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #12 Posted April 19, 2019 you couldn't ask for any better decals to work with, I redone many tractors and Terry's products are some of the best out there. 1. wipe area clean with rubbing alcohol and let dry. 2. don't peel off the backing test fit everything small masking tape to hold. stand back and look. 3. make reference marks with a pencil. 4. I prefer dry fit, but if your unsure spray with window cleaner. 5. apply decal and use a rubber/plastic squeegee (however you spell it??) 6. if you get air bubbles pop with a pin and will work out, and xacto knife is helpful too. 7. blot dry with a towel don't rub. 8. don't clear coat over top, unless you are 100% sure your decals can be. I don't anyway. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,166 #13 Posted April 19, 2019 I have been very pleased with the Windex method, even used it on my truck window decal! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCM 9,633 #14 Posted April 19, 2019 @953 nut Awful nice looking Grader Blade you have there. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,112 #15 Posted April 19, 2019 (edited) Windex for me Terry made my van decals too Edited April 19, 2019 by wallfish 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cadmandu 67 #16 Posted April 20, 2019 How does the sticky side stay sticky with the soapy water on it. Nice job looks really good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EricF 589 #17 Posted April 20, 2019 The water will get squeegeed out by pressure on the decals -- and if the adhesive is pressed onto the surface, there's no room for water left -- so it all gets squeezed out. Also, the water doesn't have to be terribly soapy. Just a few drops is really all it takes, especially if you're not filling up the spray bottle all the way. All it does is break the surface tension of the water so it will squeeze out nice and easy. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steelman 251 #18 Posted April 20, 2019 I have an original decal that came off while power washing. What glue or adhesive would work best to reapply? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
classiccat 548 #19 Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) Timely thread for me as I'm about to install the big hood decals on my C85 blackhood. I see no mention of the 3M primer 94 on here...and relieved! I've used it on 2 decals (freshly painted tractor) and it's a bugger to get off without aggressive rubbing w/ alcohol. plus it seemed to make the paint swell a bit; not sure if this is a result of the paint not being completely cured (takes months), if the swelling is permanent, etc. EDIT: just checked...the slight paint swelling from the primer did go away after 2 days. Edited April 20, 2019 by classiccat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vinylguy 4,687 #20 Posted April 20, 2019 40 minutes ago, classiccat said: Timely thread for me as I'm about to install the big hood decals on my C85 blackhood. I see no mention of the 3M primer 94 on here...and relieved! I've used it on 2 decals (freshly painted tractor) and it's a bugger to get off without aggressive rubbing w/ alcohol. plus it seemed to make the paint swell a bit; not sure if this is a result of the paint not being completely cured (takes months), if the swelling is permanent, etc. EDIT: just checked...the slight paint swelling from the primer did go away after 2 days. I see no mention of the 3M primer 94 on here...and relieved! Primer 94 is recommended only for use to help keep the brushed aluminum dash decals down in the rib grooves. Its primary use is for holding down the edges of graphics when applied to porous substrates like plastic on golf cars dirt bikes etc. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bellevillerod 835 #21 Posted April 20, 2019 I always use the wet install, on the thicker dash decal I just put on my commando it really helped. I just got it where I needed it and then used a hair dryer to gently heat it up to speed up the drying process. It stuck really well even with the ridge down the middle of the dash plate. I will try the dry install on the next one I install, see if it works as well for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cadmandu 67 #22 Posted April 20, 2019 I have some pin stripe to remove before I apply my new decals any hints on an easy removal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,112 #23 Posted April 20, 2019 1 hour ago, Cadmandu said: I have some pin stripe to remove before I apply my new decals any hints on an easy removal Heat gun or a hair dryer if you don't have one but the higher heat works better. Goo Gone can be used to remove the leftover adhesive but test it on the paint somewhere hidden just to make sure it doesn't cause a problem with the paint. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cadmandu 67 #24 Posted April 20, 2019 I have a heat gun and a heat gun for shrink tubing for electronics both can blister paint Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,166 #25 Posted April 21, 2019 12 hours ago, classiccat said: not sure if this is a result of the paint not being completely cured (takes months), if the swelling is permanent, etc. EDIT: just checked...the slight paint swelling from the primer did go away after 2 days The solvents take several months to escape from air dry enamel. The swelling went down, but the adhesion between the paint and primer may have been compromised. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites