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ebinmaine

Type of chainsaw chain for cutting stumps and roots?

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ebinmaine

Is there such a thing as a type of chainsaw chain that is better for cutting into stumps and roots keeping in mind that it is unavoidable to hit at least some dirt?

I need to cut into some stumps while clearing land for the new horse stable. No matter how well one clears dirt around a tree root there is always some amount of dirt left, along with accidental ground contact.

Do you just buy a new chain and use the old one for ground clearing?

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Achto
2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Do you just buy a new chain and use the old one for ground clearing?

 

:text-yeahthat:This is what I would do. I might even try sharpening it  when it gets dull, depending on how much dirt covered wood you need to cut up.

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Darb1964

That is what I did when I did that stuff. I always saved my old bars and chains if I got a wedge in a tree i would take the bar off put on an old one to get the stuck one out. If the old chain is worn bad it might break. If you can find a old beater saw that may be better choice. Dangerous stuff  put on protection gear. 

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, Darb1964 said:

Dangerous stuff  put on protection gear. 

I always appreciate a safety reminder.

 

I've been lucky enough, or maybe just choosy enough, to work for a few different companies that have been adamant about safety.

 

I have leather logging boots that are steel toe with a metatarsal guard. Anti-vibration gloves. Hearing protection and eye protection.

I wear all those whenever I'm going to make a few cuts.

 

I'm not as good as I should be about putting my other gear on but I also have a couple of hard hats, Kevlar cloth sleeves, level 5 cut-resistant chaps.

 

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ebinmaine
5 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

This is what I use on roots. They hold up well and are long enough to get to the roots underneath.

Image result for sawzall rough cut blade

Is that a Sawzall style blade?

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elcamino/wheelhorse

It sure is , they work well on roots . The real big stumps will be the problem getting them out of the ground.

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

It sure is , they work well on roots . The real big stumps will be the problem getting them out of the ground.

I don't actually have to get them completely out of the ground. Just low enough that I can layer stone over the top of them.

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formariz

To grind down stump here is what I use. It is used for carving generally, but it works well for this. Comes in a couple different cuts (aggressive or fine).  Clear dirt around stump to level wanted. Blow stump clean as much as you can with compressed air. Then grind down . I usually grind them from the top inside out leaving edges for last. This way I expose cutter to dirt only at the very end.Tool can be easily sharpened with small wheel in a drill.

 

A word of caution. Get used to it slowly, make sure grinder has additional handle installed and guard. It is effective but can also be dangerous if you are reckless with it.

 

image.png.6099f488f588ae9cc34754260d12fce1.png

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SylvanLakeWH
1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

This is what I use on roots. They hold up well and are long enough to get to the roots underneath.

Image result for sawzall rough cut blade

 

:text-yeahthat:

I use same thing...

 

Chain saws are not designed for ground contact. High potential to do saw harm and not safe.

 

These are cheap and much safer...

 

:twocents-02cents:

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elcamino/wheelhorse

You can also rent small walk behind stump grinders . They work pretty good , but you know when you have used on all day.

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953 nut
4 hours ago, formariz said:

can also be dangerous if you are reckless with it.

They can take off an arm!   A 4" grinder hasn't got enough to hang onto and use one of these.            :twocents-02cents:

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clueless
16 hours ago, 953 nut said:

This is what I use on roots. They hold up well and are long enough to get to the roots underneath.

Image result for sawzall rough cut blade

Put one on my battery powered Dewalt sawzall a few years ago for the wife to do some pruning, trimming, and root removal. Never got the saw back :snooty:

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, clueless said:

Put one on my battery powered Dewalt sawzall a few years ago for the wife to do some pruning, trimming, and root removal. Never got the saw back :snooty:

You do realize that gives you full unequivocal permission to go get another battery powered Dewalt Sawzall of equal or greater value, right?

 

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clueless
1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

You do realize that gives you full unequivocal permission to go get another battery powered Dewalt Sawzall of equal or greater value, right?

 

That happened with in the first couple of months :thumbs:. That blade and a battery powered sawzall is about the best thing there is for trimming and taking down shrubs and small trees.

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Lee1977
11 minutes ago, clueless said:

That happened with in the first couple of months :thumbs:. That blade and a battery powered sawzall is about the best thing there is for trimming and taking down shrubs and small trees.

I can see that would work very well. The best thing for cutting down overgrown shrubbery is a pole saw. Then use a sawzall or chain saw if you are taking it to the ground.

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Sarge

Those pruning blades are the same thing I use to remove stumps and roots around here - much cheaper, safer and effective than any chain saw. I'd recommend using a really cheap grinder if you go with the chained saw blade made for wood - the shock load they can put back into the tool is staggering and will destroy an expensive grinder in short order. Hunt around - I believe someone is now making those pruning blades for sawzall-type machines in Bi-Metal blade form, which can take 4 times as much heat and abuse.  Those types of blade material can also handle hitting dirt, rocks and other debris quite well with little damage to their teeth. A lot of times I've just used the bi-metal type super-aggressive demolition blades made for cutting through wood and steel for these jobs that include dirt and debris. The pruning blades are faster, but their teeth are also a lot more delicate and prone to dulling when they hit anything but soft woods. 

 

Sarge

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Mows4three

Eric,

 

My humble suggestion...

 

Go to Harbor Fright.  Buy their cheapest sawzall (baterry operated is handier) and don't forget to take a 20% off or a sale coupon.  Buy some of their extra blades for rough cutting wood.  Saw the roots off with the sawzall and save your back.  Much less digging is required. 

 

Once I found this method of stump removal I've never gone back to an axe.  I don't have a backhoe or a skid steer so I had to get smarter or I would be forced to work harder. 

 

Cheers!

 

Dave

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ebinmaine

folks, I'm liking the Sawzall idea. That's the way we're going to go. I have two that are corded and that's okay because it's close enough to the house that I can plug in.

 

I do actually have one of those 5 TPI demolition blades with the reinforced teeth as mentioned I believe above by @Sarge.

 

I don't know if the weather is going to hold off enough in the next couple days but we're going to try to get out there and clear some more land.

 

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ebinmaine
5 minutes ago, MaryMiller said:

I always saved my old bars and chains if I got a wedge in a tree i would take the bar off put on an old one to get the stuck one out.

:text-welcomeconfetti:

 

 

That's a great idea!

 

 

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DennisThornton

Eric, they make carbide tipped chain BUT they are pricey and subject to shattering.  I've never used one but we sold some.

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tom2p

just this weekend removed a Canadian hemlock stump 

 

dug around the stump and large roots with shovel and pick / mattock - and then cut through the roots with a small battery powered DeWalt recip saw (w / 12" blade )

 

worked well 

 

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Handy Don

Heck, I was going to say the saw to use is one that's rented or borrowed, but...

 

I use a demolition sawzall blade as well.

One note--the blade chews on something that isn't moving relative to the saw. If the root is loose, then it'll move back and forth with the blade. If you don't have a solid brace, it'll move you back and forth!

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ebinmaine
5 hours ago, Handy Don said:

If you don't have a solid brace, it'll move you back and forth

Hahahaha......

The cartoonish visions are excellent. 

 

This is one the occasions where me being "not small" has its advantages. 

 

I agree with the demolition blade. That's what I ended up using as well. Worked good although short lived "cutting" dirt with the roots. 

 

 

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gwest_ca

They make carbide tipped Sawzall blades now. Picked up a couple to cut a 10" I-beam. Wonder how long they would last in the dirt?

 

Garry

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