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troutbum70

New tool to try

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troutbum70

Just received a hydraulic gear puller 5 ton capability. Anyone use one of these with any success? Been struggling with the wheel hubs to remove them on the 417, trying a new product also from seafoam called Deep Creep. Not sure it's any better than the rest at this point. Won't get to try the puller for a couple days, so have to wait to see if it works.

IMG_20190410_194512.jpg

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JCM

Have never used a hydraulic puller but have used Deep Creep at work and in the garage for many years,I would classify it in the same category as PB blaster, spray pattern is better and you can spray it upside down to some degree, also, smells a little better.IMO I don't think either make's much difference on hub removal?

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ebinmaine
33 minutes ago, troutbum63 said:

trying a new product also from seafoam called Deep Creep. Not sure it's any better than the rest at this point. 

Agreed.

I've had the Best success with Kroil or good old fashioned inexpensive Liquid Wrench.

Remove the hub set screw(s) for better spray access.

Heat. Spray/soak. Cool.

Repeat.

Repeat.

Repeat.

 

Still could take days/weeks...

 

There's a home brew of (atf+acetone??)

I've been meaning to try.

 

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troutbum70

I believe all the penetrates are pretty much the same, a couple of the farmers here thought the deep creep was better. And yep been putting penetrate in both set screw holes as well as back in along key way, trying not to use much heat so as to not damage those seals. Just want to remove hubs and clean things up, put some anti seize on so when the need comes to replace seals getting them off won't be a problem. Preventive maintenance that should have been done years ago. Also have heard of ATF and acetone, not sure if acetone is safe to mix with anything.

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Achto
37 minutes ago, troutbum63 said:

not sure if acetone is safe to mix with anything

 

Can't be that bad, nail polish remover is over 90 percent acetone. :dunno:

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troutbum70

Oh yes I have used acetone by it self for cleaning many projects like printed circuit boards, prepping an area for decaling, used much of it for cleaning graphite arrows in preparation before gluing feathers on. Many products are relatively safe when used by them selves, but not so when mixed. I have a nephew that is a chemist will have to ask him about the combination.

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ebinmaine

Have you been using the puller method of an old hub with 5 bolts ?

 

I was just realizing that the hydraulic puller you have is a 3 jaw.

That will break a hub with mediocre pressure.

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troutbum70

No I don't have another hub to bolt to them so I am reluctant to over due the pressure being applied. Like the brake hub they have been on there a long time, so a long time to remove hi hi.

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ebinmaine

PM me your address and I'll send you a bad hub to use as your puller for the cost of shipping.

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troutbum70

Thank you ebinmaine my neighbor is going to make me a plate to bolt to the hubs for support sometime here in the next week or so. He is a welder and fabricator for exxon here at the gas well sites, so at times he is very busy. But I do really thank you.

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pacer

Indeed the 3 jaw is VERY risky to try on the hub (dont ask how I know!!)

 

Have your friend make a plate with the requisite 5 holes and threaded in center for a big threaded bolt -- 5/8 - 3/4" threads (fine thread preferably)

I made mine with 5/8 thread through a 1/2" plate and added an extra 5/8 nut welded to the plate to give me a lot of thread area.

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troutbum70

Okay pacer as the old saying goes been there done that. I was just going to make a plate to bolt to the hub for reinforcement and still use my pullers, but like your thought will have to give it a try.

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ebinmaine

It's a little tough to see but here is what I have.

I used the piece that holds the claws of the 3 jaw puller between the two of the hubs. Bolts are through all the holes of both hubs. Bolt size is 3/8" by about 4 long.

 

I have (on purpose) broken a hub this way.

I have also... Accidentally... Broken a hub. This isn't fool proof but it works well.

 

I do realize you're trying to save the seals but the heat makes a HUGE difference.

It may be worth your while to use the torch and then just replace the seals. They're inexpensive, easy to get, and easy to change from the outside.

 

 

IMG_20181225_144906123.jpg.4c50f28ae30293e76e9b5cbd1ca094d2.jpg

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953 nut

Here is a hydraulic puller idea.

898838595_bottlejackhubpuller.JPG.4f5045def4a157dd3c68154e72942d92.JPG

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troutbum70

Well 953 that's an nifty setup and if it works so be it. Ebinmaine I know the heat would be a huge help and before I am done I may have to remove the seat and seat pan and gas tank to safely do that, on the 417 the gas tank is right over the axles. I just keep shooting the penetrate down holes and praying for it to help. 

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WHX??

I think @Aldon has got that same puller? I know he has a hydraulic one for sure he put up pics of working it.

He's in a cross country move right now tho so might not be around.

:wwp: you get yours workin.

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pfrederi

I got the 10 ton version but only used it once and not on WH hub.  you will break the hub if you use it on the flange.  However if you can pull on the back of the hub the hydraulic thing would work.  See two examples of pulling on the rear of the hub

 

 

20190408_171708.jpg.12d1a5d820192383fc269e9f75e73f86.jpg

IMG_3209.JPG.14d4fc4b1c6314169ecdf0d96acd058a.JPG

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ebinmaine
3 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

examples

Paul, the upper one... That is using 5 bolts straight through the Hub you are removing. How does that go on the axle? Is it a slot? That slides down over it?

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pfrederi
2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Paul, the upper one... That is using 5 bolts straight through the Hub you are removing. How does that go on the axle? Is it a slot? That slides down over it?

Look at this thread starting #62  GT riders idea

 

 

Edited by pfrederi

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troutbum70

Pfrederi I plan a setup similar to picture 1 only using a bearing separator to clamp around axle and pulling from that point. I don't believe the axle and in side of hub are tapered, that being said with all the penetrate I have shot back in the key slots and down the set screw holes a body would not think they can still be that stubborn tight.

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ebinmaine

You are correct about the axle being straight, not tapered.

 

Don't be too shocked about the hub being as stubborn as it is.

Many of us have waited with heat/oil cycles going on for WEEKS to remove one.

 

These hubs and the  steering wheel can be the bane of the existence to the Wheelhorse owner.

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troutbum70

Well that's another project in waiting is to remove steering wheel on it and also my parts tractor. I am thinking the start of that project is drill the ends of the retaining pins out and then the attempt to pull the wheels. Several years ago I pulled a wheelie with the 417 that did not turn out well for the steering wheel and hood.

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WHX??

How did that puller work out for you  @troutbum63

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