Mudrig150 298 #26 Posted January 14, 2020 10 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: The metal work on the frame is repairable if you have the right level of skill. That's something I've been working on attaining myself. If there's someone around you that can help out with that, awesome. If not, nothing wrong with setting that project aside for a while until you can learn how to do it. Roll pins on many things can be a huge challenge. I've never dealt with any that were super extreme stubborn We ain't got no welder, and it's not exactly a structural area, so I'm thinking of just repairing it with body filler. This roll pin... Is a whole nother kind of stuck. Rusted completely in place, it's fused with the steering wheel, rusted to the shaft, too. In an awkward position under the wheel so drilling it out is wierd. Gonna try the bottom roll pin and see if it budges. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,498 #27 Posted January 14, 2020 if you think you can get away with just coating the area to smooth it out then maybe you could use some J-B weld to do so. that would add to your structural strength in a way that Bondo just can't do. As to that roll pin you may want to search around on the site a little. I've seen where other people have given information and help for how to get those out. Generally speaking they can't be drilled unless you have a particular type of drill bit which will handle hardened steel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #28 Posted January 14, 2020 11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: if you think you can get away with just coating the area to smooth it out then maybe you could use some J-B weld to do so. that would add to your structural strength in a way that Bondo just can't do. As to that roll pin you may want to search around on the site a little. I've seen where other people have given information and help for how to get those out. Generally speaking they can't be drilled unless you have a particular type of drill bit which will handle hardened steel. It's only a small area, and it literally just is the rounded corner of the frame, so I should be able to get away with it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55rj35jr 623 #29 Posted January 15, 2020 i have a cast metal belt guard for one of these if interested not sure what model it fits, it is like the long white one in picture from engine pulley, if interested let me know Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #30 Posted January 15, 2020 15 minutes ago, 55rj35jr said: i have a cast metal belt guard for one of these if interested not sure what model it fits, it is like the long white one in picture from engine pulley, if interested let me know How much? Also- That's what the paint is supposed to look like? Dang. Mine is ROUGH. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55rj35jr 623 #31 Posted January 21, 2020 On 1/15/2020 at 11:59 AM, Mudrig150 said: How much? Also- That's what the paint is supposed to look like? Dang. Mine is ROUGH. PM Message sent to you thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55rj35jr 623 #32 Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) Edited January 23, 2020 by 55rj35jr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #33 Posted February 11, 2020 Bought the belt guard for the Burns, gonna get some funds together, buy my almost brand new briggs, and get the restoration going. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #34 Posted February 13, 2020 (edited) The belt guard came yesterday. It's quite a chunk of cast iron! It weighs like 5 pounds, and is 1/8-1/4" thick cast iron. No wonder the original one broke off. Thanks, @55rj35jr for helping me out. Edited February 13, 2020 by Mudrig150 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55rj35jr 623 #35 Posted February 14, 2020 23 hours ago, Mudrig150 said: The belt guard came yesterday. It's quite a chunk of cast iron! It weighs like 5 pounds, and is 1/8-1/4" thick cast iron. No wonder the original one broke off. Thanks, @55rj35jr for helping me out. Glad to help, its one of those parts that you would probably never find, it just so happened that I had one. thanks 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #36 Posted February 14, 2020 10 minutes ago, 55rj35jr said: Glad to help, its one of those parts that you would probably never find, it just so happened that I had one. thanks I've only ever had one other guy have one, it was off a parted out Gilson and he wanted 200$ for it, because he said the tractor was rare. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #37 Posted February 15, 2020 8 hours ago, Mudrig150 said: I've only ever had one other guy have one, it was off a parted out Gilson and he wanted 200$ for it, because he said the tractor was rare. it's a rare part indeed, let's see that tractor back in action again 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #38 Posted February 20, 2020 I finally got the steering column apart. The lower roll pins, and everything else around there, were absolutely COVERED in grease, like someone put grease in a super soaker and tried hitting the grease zerks from 15 feet away. The pins were also mushroomed, which didn't help. The chrome is in good shape for being almost 57 years old. Frame and dash cleaned up okay. The frame has a lot of bad pitting, and we don't have a working welder, so it's just getting body filler in the pitting. Worst place is under the engine where all the water sat. It's too bad they actually sanded the paint off the outside of the hood and the frame is so pitted, I would've loved to keep the patina this thing has. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #39 Posted February 21, 2020 Does a shifter from a Peerless 1200 fit in a 2300? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #40 Posted February 24, 2020 (edited) Did some rearranging in our shed, which took up all weekend. We got our Deere 455 in the heated basement to get the power steering seals replaced, which has been a job we've been putting off since August when the seals went out. I still had some time left on Sunday, so I did some work on the Burns. I got some 80 grit sandpaper and cleaned up the steering wheel and steering shaft, uncovered a lot of original paint from the middle of the shaft to the steering wheel, and I found only a tiny bit of white left on the steering wheel. I also cleaned up the lower rack and pinion bracket with a wire brush on the drill, it had a ton of thick, crusty grease on it, and in the grease zerks, which plugged them up. On another note, I found a craftsman snowblade that we still have from the LT1000 that I sold, I'm gonna modify it to fit the Burns to replace the original rotted blade. Edited February 24, 2020 by Mudrig150 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #41 Posted March 2, 2020 (edited) So, I found the craftsman blade for our late LT1000, it's a 42 inch, similar to the original Burns blade. Managed to track a rare (albeit low quality) picture of the original blade on mine from 1991, of the neighbour and his dad on the tractor. It's hard to see, but the blade is all green with the Burns logo in the top right corner. I think the craftsman blade, with a little modding, will work perfect, if not as just a show piece. Also, just as luck would have it, and also unluck, my brother got mad and chucked the steering wheel across the shed. He was sweeping and I noticed it was broke, and luckily he was too lazy to throw the pile away, I managed to find all the broken plastic chunks. Just gotta glue them back on and fill in the little missing chunk. This is the problem with old steering wheels, they get brittle, and crack, and the rust doesn't help either. Edited March 2, 2020 by Mudrig150 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #42 Posted March 3, 2020 (edited) The blade got dug out, I fabbed it up. Then, I cleaned up the shed and the Burns frame and finally got the mushroomed spindle out of the front axle. Don't mind my foot in the picture... Just unintentionally showing off my new-ish boots. Old ones just...fell apart entirely. Edited March 3, 2020 by Mudrig150 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #43 Posted March 5, 2020 Set the blade up again... Had to ditch the side brackets because they got in the way of the tie rods and front axle. In the place it's getting mounted, I get about 7.5" of lift max and it sticks out about 19". Now to figure out how to bolt it up without interfering with the axle channel and how to lift it with the stock lift handle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #44 Posted April 19, 2020 (edited) Finally got the first part primed, the dash. Turned out pretty good. Now to paint about 20 more parts. Edited April 19, 2020 by Mudrig150 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,498 #45 Posted April 19, 2020 Got pics? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #46 Posted April 22, 2020 Got the top of the frame, the steering wheel, fan gear mount, and half of one rim primed. I made a cardboard ring to paint rims without taking the tires off, specifically for the Burns, because there is no way I'm getting the original Firestones off the rims. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,498 #47 Posted April 22, 2020 4 hours ago, Mudrig150 said: paint rims Old playing cards works good too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #48 Posted April 22, 2020 8 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Old playing cards works good too. I tried playing cards. They wouldn't go in the space between the rim and the tire, because of the rust and dirt buildup. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 298 #49 Posted April 29, 2020 We have a motor! Number, uh...6? I think. It actually runs! Even cold, started first pull. No smoke, no knocking, no nothing, and it's really low hour. It was on a chipper, but the previous owner was chipping branches and accidentally chucked a mower blade in with the branches. The engine survived, but the impeller needs the knives replaced due to them being broken off by the mower blade, but they're outrageously expensive. I'll keep the chipper body, but It'll need some work, more then the engine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites