troutbum70 857 #1 Posted April 6, 2019 Want to drain and replace transaxle gear oil, I find drain plug in bottom and looking at rear of tractor I see another plug. My question is it necessary to elevate the rear and that second plug becomes the filler plug or does it only require a small amount of lube to maintain lubrication. my other horses have had a filler tube with a dipstick. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,388 #2 Posted April 6, 2019 I'm thinking you have the standard "4-speed" transmission in that tractor. Horizontal shaft engine. If so. You raise the FRONT of the tractor as much as safely possible because there's a HUMP INSIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION case and fluid needs to go over it to get to the drain plug which is in the BOTTOM of the transmission near the back. Filling is accomplished by removing the shifter. Highly recommended to replace the shifter boot at this time unless it's in very good condition. Refill quantity is in a manual somewhere or other but I just put 1.5 + quarts in a 4 speed. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,681 #3 Posted April 6, 2019 The trans axle should be a standard 3 speed WH Unidrive. If the oil is really old, dirty, and foamy, you should do a solvent fill and flush with Kerosene or diesel fuel. After the solvent flush, I like to fill and flush with a quart of cheap 10w motor oil to help flush out any remaining solvent. With the solvent and 10w oil flush, drive the tractor in a circle CW and CCW for a few minutes in all 4 gears to clean all the gears. Then final fill with the 90w gear oil. The fill plug on the left side is also the oil level indicator. You can also fill thru this hole by using a small funnel with a thin walled tube to insert in the small hole. You can not pour oil directly into the hole without a tube. It also helps to warm the gear oil. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,868 #4 Posted April 6, 2019 You can fill through the shifter hole, but I like to fill through one of the two bolt holes that hold on the seat and fenders. Fill until oil starts to run out the fill hole on the side. 1 1/2 to 2 quarts. 90 wt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 857 #5 Posted April 7, 2019 Okay thank you to each yes it has an 8 horse kohler horizonal 3 speed forward 1 reverse. Have not drained any fluid yet waiting till I determined where to refill and how much. I have the parts manual with part numbers and in exploded view I could only see a place to drain and 1 possible place for refilling. I had considered to remove one of those bolts to see if would allow to view in case, had not thought about shifter hole. I would suppose then most of all the old square hoods use the same method for refilling. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,388 #6 Posted April 7, 2019 7 hours ago, troutbum63 said: would suppose then most of all the old square hoods use the same method for refilling. Yes sir. Just an FYI... We use the shifter hole because of convenience. I find it easier to pour there but... Getting the shifter set screw in/out can be challenging, particularly if you have larger hands as I do. I have a special tool for this called "Trina". She has small hands and very little to no trouble working in the confines of the area. As @Ed KennellKennell stated... A fluid flush is recommended. Especially if you don't know the last time it was done as is the case with most of these tractors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 857 #7 Posted April 7, 2019 Yep big hands here also and to complicate things more have some arthritis in both hands so I am not real nimble working in tight places with small objects. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,388 #8 Posted April 7, 2019 18 minutes ago, troutbum63 said: Yep big hands here also and to complicate things more have some arthritis in both hands so I am not real nimble working in tight places with small objects. that being the case the fill hole on the left rear lower of the transmission case is going to be your easiest option. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 857 #9 Posted April 7, 2019 I will probably try the shifter hole first if in the event I can't get the lock nut lose or securely handle the set screw I will go to plan B. I have a hard time imagining getting 1 and a 1/2 quarts of 90 wt in the hole in the rear. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 17,080 #10 Posted April 7, 2019 19 minutes ago, troutbum63 said: I have a hard time imagining getting 1 and a 1/2 quarts of 90 wt in the hole in the rear. Get yourself some kind of a squeeze bottle if using the fill hole. It will take FOREVER using a funnel. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,337 #11 Posted April 7, 2019 19 hours ago, stevasaurus said: You can fill through the shifter hole, but I like to fill through one of the two bolt holes that hold on the seat and fenders. Fill until oil starts to run out the fill hole on the side. 1 1/2 to 2 quarts. 90 wt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 857 #12 Posted April 7, 2019 Okay well I would think if using the rear entry port it would go much easier with the transaxle raised in the air to allow the lube to flow more freely towards the front of unit. And for me 1/4 of the new lube will be Lucas, this stuff served me very well for many years and millions of miles in my class 8 semi's got to be good for my WH'S as well already have it in my 417. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,463 #13 Posted April 7, 2019 Be careful using heavier viscosity oils than what they recommend for any transmission or drivetrain part that uses needle bearings on shafts. The gear oil required is 80/90wt for a reason - to lubricate the internal needle bearings. Heavier oil will not penetrate as easily into those bearings and can cause premature wear or failure. The same issue can arise from heavier oil in relation to shift fork rails and detent balls - resulting in shift rails getting stuck or acting quite sticky. Personally, I'd almost prefer to 75/90wt synthetic oil in these things to further help penetrate the small tolerances in those needle bearings and shift rails to prevent wear and any further damage. While the tolerances aren't exactly super tight in these transmissions - it is necessary to keep all those parts well lubricated. Just a tip, not a lecture. Sarge 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troutbum70 857 #14 Posted April 7, 2019 Point well taken thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites