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bottjernat1

1969 charger automatic

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bottjernat1

Hello everyone! I was going to do this last year but had to many things going on. I want to change the filter and fluid in my daughters 1969 charger automatic. after i get the messed up plug out it is worn down. it goes forward fine but creeps going backwards. i figure with a drain and new oil and filter she will be good. Then to figure out how to adjust it.  It wont stay at one speed the lever jumps on ya. I cant find the pdf file. Thanks for the help!

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pfrederi

Download operator manual and do the neutral adjustment.  If the motion control lever moves too easily you can tighten that up the friction adjustment is in the manual also.

 

 

 

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bottjernat1
22 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Download operator manual and do the neutral adjustment.  If the motion control lever moves too easily you can tighten that up the friction adjustment is in the manual also.

 

 

 

awesome thanks a million! Will check it out i will update when i get to it. working on a 317 deere right now. got it in pieces i put the kt17 kohler back in now i working on the carb. 

 

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bottjernat1

also regular atf according to the manual it says type a fluid? 

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pfrederi

Modern equivalent is the Dex/Merc ATF

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daveoman1966

Did the motion control lever jump around before...?  If so, there MAY be an issue of a broken weldment on the shaft that the friction components fit on.  Look a the left side of the hoodstand and see if this weld is broken.  This pic is a C-160 but the suspect weld is the same as the Charger. 

Here are the components of the friction motion control system.  DO NOT lube anything here...just clean out any old oil / grease or debris.  

16 AUTO x2).JPG

MOTION 001A.jpg

MOTION 007A.jpg

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upstate yank
8 hours ago, bottjernat1 said:

Hello everyone! I was going to do this last year but had to many things going on. I want to change the filter and fluid in my daughters 1969 charger automatic. after i get the messed up plug out it is worn down. it goes forward fine but creeps going backwards. i figure with a drain and new oil and filter she will be good. Then to figure out how to adjust it.  It wont stay at one speed the lever jumps on ya. I cant find the pdf file. Thanks for the help!

not to boost here but i as well have a charger 10 auto matic with the HH-100 ;this is my favorite one out of the other  8 horses in the barn  and yes after adjusting the motion from forward and reverse once the pedal is down it will stop on a dime and yes i did drain the old fluid out of the transmission plus a new filter which i change each year 'honestly i wouldn't trade it for any thing plus the mower cuts so fine ' to adjust the creep it is really easy 'just my thoughts 

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bottjernat1
13 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

Did the motion control lever jump around before...?  If so, there MAY be an issue of a broken weldment on the shaft that the friction components fit on.  Look a the left side of the hoodstand and see if this weld is broken.  This pic is a C-160 but the suspect weld is the same as the Charger. 

Here are the components of the friction motion control system.  DO NOT lube anything here...just clean out any old oil / grease or debris.  

16 AUTO x2).JPG

MOTION 001A.jpg

MOTION 007A.jpg

I will check that out to see. it has been this way ever since my late dad owned it that i know of. Thanks a million for the info!

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daveoman1966

The nylon cam MAY also be worn out or broken...  I have new one.  Part # 5996.  It is part of the motion control linkage...

5996 006.JPG

5996 007.JPG

SHIFT CAM.jpg

Edited by daveoman1966
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bottjernat1

So this will be my first time changing the tranny oil and filter. Should this be a simple drain and fill or am i going to need to call a horse buddy to help. I can do this myself correct? Im not going to need to like clear out all the lines and other stuff? Thanks for all the help folks!

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pfrederi

If the fluid looks clean as it drains that is all you need to do.  If you have a cloudy soupy mess then you may have to change it more than once.

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bottjernat1
4 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

If the fluid looks clean as it drains that is all you need to do.  If you have a cloudy soupy mess then you may have to change it more than once.

if its a mess is there something i may add to it to clean? like when i changed the engine oil in my 2002 durango last year it has 210,000 miles and thought it was a good time to run sea foam threw her maybe clean up the insides a bit. LOL im sure sea foam is not recommended but is there something like that i can do?

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pfrederi
9 minutes ago, bottjernat1 said:

if its a mess is there something i may add to it to clean? like when i changed the engine oil in my 2002 durango last year it has 210,000 miles and thought it was a good time to run sea foam threw her maybe clean up the insides a bit. LOL im sure sea foam is not recommended but is there something like that i can do?

There is no cleaner.  Change  fluid and filter run it for a few minutes and repeat until it is clear.  The alternative is to disassemble the unit clean each part and put i back together.  Hydros are not like the gear drives that get a lot of water  in them making chocolate milk out of the gear oil.  most hydos are pretty clean.

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Sarge

One tip - make certain to clean off the area above/around the oil filter before you take it off. Any dirt that gets into a hydro drive system is a death sentence to the internal parts - treat it like brain surgery or you'll regret it later.

 

Sarge

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