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TIGman

Wheel Horse 1054 lift cable replacement?

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TIGman

 Well the cable for the rear lift decided to break on my 1054..... :(

 

What are you folks doing for replacement? Making up your own, or is there a place to find already made cables?

 

Would like to have the 1054 ready for a local Plow Day in May. ;)

 

 

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Edited by TIGman
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Lane Ranger

Best thing to do is buy one from Lowell S. At WheelHorse parts and more in vendors section!  It will last!  Better than the original!

 

 

stainless steel cable and lined conduit!

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Edited by Lane Ranger
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TIGman

Thanks! Lane 

I will get one ordered :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Pullstart

I have one of Lowell’s, however I feel like I must share a trick I learned at Scott’s meet and greet.  Get yourself the proper length of cable from the hardware store, 4 1/4-20 nuts and a sledge and anvil.  Place the nuts on each end of the assembled cable and beat the snot out of them to crush the, onto the cable.  He said it’ll never come apart.  Next time I need a cable, I’m giving it a shot, just to see how it works :handgestures-thumbupright:

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953 nut
3 minutes ago, pullstart said:

beat the snot out of them to crush the, onto the cable.

:scared-eek:                                :wwp:                                           :notworthy:

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Sarge

Those crush type swage ends won't hold to the limit of the cable itself - most will never hit 1/3 of the cable rating. I have the hand type crimper made for those ends and make my own cables for several things - that tool, and those swage ends will not hold enough weight for the WH lift, manual or hydraulic - doesn't matter. The test bed was a 10" Brinly single bottom plow - not a very heavy implement and every test cable ripped right through the swaged end. Both the barrel type and the ball type sleeves are not designed for the stress that our tractors and implements will put on that cable - there is a huge strain on them due to the leverage created within the geometry of the lift linkage.

 

Even the bolt type saddle clamps are not rated to the full cable breaking strength. Lowell is using hydraulicly swaged cable ends that are designed to hit the max limit of the cable rating - huge difference. To make these requires a hydraulic die crimper that is made specifically to do these ends, quite an expensive tool to say the least. The hydraulic crimping machine works similar to the ones used to make hose fittings and has specific dies to fit the cable size and sleeve/ball ends. Again, tools like this are not cheap - go have a look around at places like McMaster or Grainger.

 

I applaud the fact that he put the investment into doing these - that is a pretty expensive investment and risk in tackling such a small market. I had researched at least 5 different companies to make these cables. None of them had the least bit of interest, no matter what the initial order quantity was due to the liability that is involved.

 

My opinion - get Lowell's cables, it helps him help us as an investment for these non-existent parts and helps to drive the market. It can also help to drive more different parts being made to equal or above the factory originals.

 

Sarge

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peter lena

don,t forget to LUBRICATE THAT NEW CABLE , to get the most out of it, pete

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TIGman

 Can't hardly wait to get the rear lift working again. :)

The 1054 is my go to tractor for work around the place, especially moving my utility trailer where needed. :handgestures-thumbupright:

IMG_20170730_165825345.jpg

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19richie66

Nice looking ride @TIGman

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WVHillbilly520H
1 hour ago, TIGman said:

 Can't hardly wait to get the rear lift working again. :)

The 1054 is my go to tractor for work around the place, especially moving my utility trailer where needed. :handgestures-thumbupright:

IMG_20170730_165825345.jpg

Yes sir I concur...but sometimes you just need a little more tractor...

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