Lane Ranger 10,853 #1 Posted March 26, 2019 My brother David and I are working on putting a 14 HP Magnum Kohler motor from a 314-8 1993 model into a 313-Hydro from 1990. Aside from changing the engine drive pulley and putting some 8 inch wheels and tires on the front of this 312 Hydro we need some assistance on the wiring setup. The 314-8 is a 1993 model. That is where the donor 14 HP Magnum came from. The 312-H is a 1990 Model and that is where the 14 HP motor is installed. Now I have two (and maybe three) diagrams for the wiring setup on these (I have not gone to looking at the colors of the wires which I probably should have started with) The first two pictures are of the type of switch that is in the 312-H now. It has the sixth tab/blade for a ground wire for the switch. The third and fourth photos are of the switch that was originally in the 314-8 tractor. So there appears to be a need to reconfigure the wiring in the five wire linkage to be compatible with the 312 switch. The fifth and sixth photos are of a wiring diagram for a 314 that I found on Red Square but I am not sure of the year and if hydro or 8 speed. I know that wires can be rearranged with the wire linkage by depressing the tabs and reconfiguring but I am not sure about the rectifier link and and the groiudn links. Any insights on this would be appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,921 #2 Posted March 26, 2019 Both engines should have magneto ignition, low oil switch and 15 amp stator so no wiring changes needed. The older tractor wiring should plug into the newer engine. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,853 #3 Posted March 26, 2019 (edited) Garry : Thank you for the response. They do plug in to wiring harness connectors with no problem. But there is an issue with this transfer. We blew three 30 amp fuses trying to start just by turning on the system at the ignition switch. The key switch has no power when turned to start. Solenoid seems good. Battery may be weak but we had a booster box attached. 1990 312-H shows a 103991 Key Switch The 1993 314-8 Shows a 116338 key switch. Those key switches don't seem to line up the wiring the same. Edited March 26, 2019 by Lane Ranger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,871 #4 Posted March 26, 2019 (edited) Lane, there are several wiring differences between the two tractors. Assuming none of the other wiring has been messed with it would be easiest to keep the 312-H wiring as is using the 103991 switch. Just concern yourself with the wires going to the engine. The regulator, magneto, oil level switch and, of course the starter. You don't want to use the 116338 switch. Going this route it does make the engine swap plug and play. What I'm saying is don't over complicate things thinking you need to rewire the 312 the way the 314 is wired. The engine doesn't care. Edited March 26, 2019 by Racinbob 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midpack 846 #5 Posted March 26, 2019 We blew three 30 amp fuses trying to start just by turning on the system at the ignition switch. My 417-8 had that problem when I got it. ended up being a solenoid that was not tightened down 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,853 #6 Posted March 26, 2019 (edited) Bob: ThANKS ! I think the key is "assuming none of the wires have been messed with"! That is what I don't know on the 14 HP magnum motor although it looks like all is original in the five plug link socket. I think we are using the 103991 switch and yet we are having no juice to the key switch when in start mode. Now I am going to check the two wire terminal on the solenoid with a multimeter to see if the two link under the solenoid is getting juice from the key switch (should be 12 volts) when key iin in start mode. That may tell me if there is some other wiring issue. Also until we get motor running I could not test the rectifier to see if we were getting charging voltage (althought I could change to another tractor and check it). Edited March 26, 2019 by Lane Ranger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,853 #7 Posted March 26, 2019 Thanks Midpack I will check that out too!. Getting those solenoids off of the Toro type tractors is a pain with the nuts behind the metal plate! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 10,871 #8 Posted March 26, 2019 Do make sure everything is clean and tight and make sure you are using the 103991 6 terminal switch. Think like you just uncrated the engine and not that it was removed from a 314. Start from the beginning. 12v from the battery to the ignition switch terminal B. Now clip to the S terminal. You should get 12v when you turn the key to the start position. Back to the run position and B, R and A should have 12v. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,461 #9 Posted March 26, 2019 lane ranger , recently did a similar swap used ,https://www.google.com/search?q=wheel+horse+ignition+switch+/+harness&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjjxpWvhKDhAhXNVN8KHfSZAg4QsxgIKw&biw=1024&bih=662&dpr=1.25 replaced switch and harness , other detail related information from this site. everything works well, pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,853 #10 Posted October 11, 2019 (edited) Back at the 312-H eletrical system this week. Looking at the safety switches and the clutch interlock switch (#103480) as possible problem in the elertical wiring on a 1990 312-H that we placed a 14 HP Magnum Kohler motor on in March. I have the correct key switch and new solenoid. I see that Toro no longer has the #104480 clutch interlock switch available. Must have been changed or discontinued after the 1990 312-H model as the 1991 312-H model lists bothe the 103480 interlocak switch and the 115230 interlock switch on the 1991 eletrical disagram ( first photo ) Anyone know what will work as a replacement for the 103480 clutch Interlock Switch?? Edited October 11, 2019 by Lane Ranger Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,921 #11 Posted October 11, 2019 The 103480 is a NO (Normally open) switch. Contacts are closed when the rocker is pressed. The 98-2392 switch has 2 pairs of contacts. Wide terminals are NO and narrow terminals are NC. It may work if it mounts the same. Wide terminals may also be a problem unless they are what we usually see and the narrow are about 3/16" wide. Have seen those but rare. Click on the picture Garry Didn't the speed control stick move from the hoodstand to the steering column about this time? May be the reason for the switch change. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,853 #12 Posted October 11, 2019 The 1991 speed stick moved to the steering column. The 1990 was still on the lower plate in front of the dash/hoodstand. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CasualObserver 3,407 #13 Posted October 11, 2019 4 hours ago, Lane Ranger said: Anyone know what will work as a replacement for the 103480 clutch Interlock Switch?? The switch you show is EMB602.... search for that... there's a few on ebay. Or check with a local appliance repair.... they are refrigerator light switches. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,921 #14 Posted October 12, 2019 Good catch Jason. See there are two rocker angles 35 and 45 degrees but don't know how that is identified on the switches. Maybe it doesn't matter in this application. The PT photo looks like 45 degrees. http://www.embcorp.com/600_SP.html Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,853 #15 Posted October 12, 2019 Jason: You made my day! Thank you! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites