
-
Similar Content
-
By D_Mac
Well...... what's too many horses ? Is to many when you have no more room in the garage so you have to start leaving them outside ? You can say you are "tractor heavy " but are you really ? Right @WHX??. I picked this up today. I'm not really a parts buying guy, unless I need them, but I saw this listed and you know. Love at first sight. Appears i just bought a 1969 Charger 10. Or parts of one. PO removed the original tecumseh engine and was going to install this 10hp Kohler. Well as you can see he didnt get far. Engine is on frame not properly secured and nothing else is hooked up. Nothing. Wires hanging all over. Parts off of it. Im not sure if i have everything. I also am unfamiliar with these " newer engines" that dont have the old starter generator. Not sure what works and what dosnt. Just got it home. If you kind fellas can take a look at what i photographed and tell me whats missing or what i will need to attempt to get this thing running again or if I just should rob some parts from it. Wiring it will be very difficult for me. I have said 100Xs I'm a horrible mechanic and even worse electrician. What ever I decide to do with it your opinions will be appreciated. Thanks
-
By AndyZ
Operator manual #A-5274
Wiring
6 pages 7.31MB
Illustrated parts list link
Use the 1970 parts list for the Raider 10 model 1-6051 and Raider 12 models 1-6251 and 1-6253 with the following exceptions
For 1970 electric clutch use Electro 12 model 1-7255
2 pages 282KB
We also have the 1971 tractor parts manual that followed
1971 Raider 10 model 1-0300 - (1-0300-6) - Uses HH100-115145C with magneto ignition (Engine oil capacity 2 quarts)
1971 Raider 12 model 1-0310 - (1-0310-6) - Uses K301S-47407C with breakerless magneto ignition (This model also made in Belgium) (Engine oil capacity 2 quarts)
-
By mmmmmdonuts
My cheap-o walmart U1 battery is starting to bite the dust again (barely able to crank it over fully charged, and ozzing everywhere) after 3 years on my 68' Raider and I am looking into a new battery for winter as I now have a plow setup. I was thinking of either getting the original 22NF battery that came with it or running a mazda mita battery which is a U1 size. Is the AGM worth the extra money over the 22nF even in the smaller size? I think the vibrations keep killing the cheapo batteries and I am trying to make sure I can leave it out in the cold and not have a problem starting in the winter. It does get down to 0F or below zero every once in a while. I don't think I want to go all the way to a 22nF AGM as it is $200.
Thoughts?
-
By ohiofarmer
I am picking away at the k series on the raider10. Basically the Piston blew through at the ring grooves as it appears the rings may have had too large a gap. I can feel a slight erosion of the bore where the ring gaps All lined up, but not even close to catching a finger nail.
I am hoping just hoping out the bore will get it back to round close enough that a ring job will do .
In any case I can measure the bore and report back. Discipline demands that I do not tear this engine down right now as too many things are taking up my time.
Just hoping the gurus can offer a bit of guidance
-
By davidtmercer
Just recently had a 10 pinion differential axle gears lose their teeth as shown in this picture from a post in 2014.
Was wondering if others have had this happen and if they determined the root cause and corrective actions.
I am considering replacing the two axle gears and five pinions that were destroyed but did not want the same thing to happen again.
I assume the failure was due to a worn cylindrical spring that I also plan to replace.
-