Jump to content
Alamobrady30

Looking for grader blade plans

Recommended Posts

Alamobrady30

I have a 1984 gt1800 with hydo lift.  I'm looking to see if anyone has made a belly grader blade or has any plans for 1.  Also how much down pressure do these mowers make?  Let me know what you have done. Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Do not have any plans Grader Blades show up on ebay.  If you have a hydro the down pressure can lift the rear wheels off the ground.  I prefer a manual lift for the mid mount grader blade it is for me easier to control.  i had it on a hydro and kept losing traction because it made to much down pressure before I could react..

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

Here's a post I did a few months ago with measurements and pictures

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Lee1977

I cut down a 5' grader blade edge to 4' when I made mine.The frame is made from 2" channel  with a piece of 4" channel at the rear. The pivot pin is a 7/8" Ford pickup king pin.

SAM-0807-1.jpg

 

SAM-0635.jpg

 

Right now a friend of mine has it. He is waiting for ground to dry up enough to finish some work in his back yard. 

Edited by Lee1977
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WVHillbilly520H

Here's the newer style (model #79351) that attaches via the rear axle hitch/bracket for the snow/dozer blade and tiller.

 

Screenshot_20190318-044206.png

Edited by WVHillbilly520H

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wildman

WE had a member back in the day that had a vertical wheel horse ranch he had a set of plans for one,i do remember him being from Indiana but can't seem to remember  his screen name

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
JoeM
5 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

Here's the newer style (model #79351) that attaches via the rear axle hitch/bracket for the snow/dozer blade and tiller.

Jeff, can you give me the measurement from the center of the plow attachment round bar to the center of the blade pivot pin?

I have some stuff laying around and been thinking I might fab one of those up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WVHillbilly520H
2 hours ago, OILUJ52 said:

Jeff, can you give me the measurement from the center of the plow attachment round bar to the center of the blade pivot pin?

I have some stuff laying around and been thinking I might fab one of those up.

I would but not mine, it's on Craigslist near me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
JoeM

okay thanks,

maybe some one reading this will have that info.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
1 minute ago, OILUJ52 said:

okay thanks,

maybe some one reading this will have that info.

 

Joe I've got the old style but I'd be happy to help if I can.

@Stepney may have the new style. I don't know if it's near him where he can measure it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Stepney

I have a newer grader, mid 90's I think. I can get a measurement this evening when I get home. Anything else you want measured while I'm out there? 

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oldtin 921

Was a guy named Seth on one of the Wheel horse sites on Facebook last month that made a blade and said he had the plans and was going to post them but as of now,never did!! Blade was the early style and he was going to sell it for $200 and I said I would take it but he traded it to a buddy! I just bought a model 7-1111 over the weekend!!

Edited by oldtin 921

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
JoeM

Yeah, both would be great. I am not exactly set on what I might do. I have this stuff left over from my old b100A. It was used in my early fab days for leveling the yard. It mounted on the front but I did not have down pressure and it was hard to judge how deep it was going. Sometimes not at all.

I am not sure of the pro or cons of either set up. Front or rear mounting? I see guys posting good results with both.

 

 

IMG_3085_JPG.jpg.88130cd0ed609d8ab46eeb6137a1fa6e.jpg

Edited by OILUJ52

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, OILUJ52 said:

Yeah, both would be great. I am not exactly set on what I might do. I have this stuff left over from my old b100A. It was used in my early fab days for leveling the yard. It mounted on the front but I did not have down pressure and it was hard to judge how deep it was going. Sometimes not at all.

I am not sure of the pro or cons of either set up. Front or rear mounting? I see guys posting good results with both.

 

 

Image

Joe. I've never used the rear mounted one. The one we have is 40 inch wide and mounts to the middle of the frame. Just behind the front axle. 

I've only just begun to experiment with mine a little bit but from my experiences I don't want to dig very deep at all.

My driveway is quite rough so any depth more than 1/2 inch or an inch and things just go all Haywire.

If you want to dig deeper on one or both sides you can bolt or weld on a small post vertically at the end of the blade and put weight lifting weights down over the post.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WVHillbilly520H

My dad originally built this rear (sleeve hitch) blade and I just improved upon his design...it can be tilted just like a road grader for pull side ditches I'm sure dad loosely based it on the Brinly version...

IMAG3280.jpg

IMAG3543.jpg

IMAG3541.jpg

IMAG3486.jpg

IMAG4774.jpg

  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Alamobrady30

I'm thinking about modifying a wheelhorse  snowplow and cutting it down to fit under the tractor etc...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WVHillbilly520H
20 minutes ago, Alamobrady30 said:

I'm thinking about modifying a wheelhorse  snowplow and cutting it down to fit under the tractor etc...

That Craftsman/Brinly blade I pictured above would be just about perfect.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi
12 hours ago, Alamobrady30 said:

I'm thinking about modifying a wheelhorse  snowplow and cutting it down to fit under the tractor etc...

 

 

Mid mount blades are much thicker steel than snow plows.  Snow plow blades get strength from reinforcements.  You would be cutting some of those off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sarge

Hunt around - look for a used cutting edge off of a road grader. The outer ends get worn, but the center is generally straight as an arrow. Use that as your blade base, bolt on part of another blade as a backer for the arms/frame and it will last longer than the Horse. I have a 6' section here off a small one - plan to build my own for the big D sometime soon, I hope. A lot of equipment maintenance shops and welding shops have those worn out edges laying around and will generally sell sections off of them for scrap price - those are the shops that install the new cutting edge, btw. I had the local shop plasma cut the holes and install a 3/4" thick piece of a grader edge onto my Craftsman rear blade - that thing will slice through ice/snow/dirt/rock with ease. You can also get thick/tall pieces of 1055 steel from an eBay supplier - they stuff is hardened and pre-beveled, pretty cheap solution for what it costs. Used that already for rebuilding the 56" blade on the big D - its almost too effective in all honesty and tears up asphalt pretty badly. 

 

Sarge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Stepney

Hey again, seems nobody pitched in on the measurements. Been under the weather the last few days, I'll see about popping out tonight and getting a measurement on that. Sorry about the delay.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WVHillbilly520H

@Sarge, @Alamobrady30, I have one of those heavyduty grader or DOT plow truck cutting edge (yellow)...was thinking about using it for the same thing.

IMAG2655.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Stepney

I hope these can help. The plow frame does have a slant to it. If you need me to measure that, perhaps I can figure out just how to do it. 

Frame rail length, 11 1/4"

Frame rail width, 12.5".
TachAMatic bar to center pivot, 21/5" from the top, about 24" when measured from the bottom.

Control lever shaft, 16".

Blade, 50".

 

Screen Shot 2019-03-22 at 6.40.38 PM.png

Edited by Stepney
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WVHillbilly520H

@Stepney, the easiest way to measure that angle would be to lay a straight edge under the main beam (c-channel) then measure up to the rear hitch pin (look at the last 2 pics showing the angle) ...BTW thanks for the pic and measurements. Also found some more pictures of homemade ones...sorry no dimensions

image.thumb.jpg.b0026ad64a7049a691a8856c8c300437.jpg

image.thumb.jpg.58d7b94b006e7f9bb6d7f5457874a14d.jpg

5752f5b505e98_IMG_0579(800x600).jpg.53f1283460180d6f3882e219aa8b2f89.jpg

5752f5a4bf4f9_IMG_0577(800x600).jpg.605ec915168723ff42fc3c5b35457d34.jpg

Edited by WVHillbilly520H

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
JoeM

Thanks for the measurements! Very good info.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sarge

Here is a couple of sources for the 1055 pre-beveled high carbon steel edges in various widths and thickness flavors. This material can be drilled with cobalt or really good quality high-speed steel drill bits, but use slow speeds and plenty of cutting oil. I'd recommend bolting versus welding unless you can pre-heat and have the experience to weld this type of steel. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Cutting-Hardened-Skidsteer-Tractor/dp/B01AYOY2ZA

 

Discount Steel will cut it to specific lengths, but their shipping rates are a killer -

https://www.discountsteel.com/items/1055_Steel_Beveled_Cutting_Edge.cfm

 

You can also find this stuff on eBay, along with even harder grades of stock cutting edges for skid steer loaders and such equipment. Titan is the seller you're looking for if you want the 1055 version. 

 

Sarge

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...