HappyHillbilly 86 #1 Posted March 16, 2019 Hello! I've got a 1976 C160 Automatic that's missing the motion control lever AND the linkage is broke at the weld. Can the linkage be re-welded? If not, where might I find another one & a lever? As you can see in the photo someone modified this one. Thank you! Have a great day! HH Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,051 #2 Posted March 16, 2019 In the morning give Lincoln at A-Z Tractor a call. He is very good to deal with. https://a-ztractor.com/ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,257 #3 Posted March 16, 2019 I don't think I've got anything here but I can look. I agree with Dick. A-Z. Lincoln is the man. Off topic but VERY important... Please get the broken ammeter OUT of the tractor and throw it out. That could come back to haunt you. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HappyHillbilly 86 #4 Posted March 16, 2019 Thanks, fellas! I really appreciate that. As for the ammeter - that’s nowhere near off topic as my question about the dash in the “Engines” section. I appreciate the heads-up. I had no idea. Though there’s moisture in it I tested it for continuity & it was fine - which may well be due to the moisture. Just splice the wires together till I get a new one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,745 #5 Posted March 16, 2019 That Motion control lever for the C-160 should be round...not flat. I have a good replacement. Here is a schematic. and a bad pic of the lever.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,257 #6 Posted March 16, 2019 7 hours ago, HappyHillbilly said: Just splice the wires together till I get a new one? Yepp. You can do that. I replaced all my ammeters with voltmeters. I don't like ammeters. If you really want to put an ammeter back I'll send you a couple for the price of freight and you can test them. I would not use a continuity test as that could give a reading while the gauge is shorted. @squonk could tell us how to test one. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,018 #7 Posted March 16, 2019 (edited) Don.t even bother testing that ammeter. It's shot. either A connect both wires together with a heavy duty connector or B run 1 solid cable from the switch to the battery + on the solenoid. Edited March 16, 2019 by squonk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HappyHillbilly 86 #8 Posted March 16, 2019 12 hours ago, daveoman1966 said: That Motion control lever for the C-160 should be round...not flat. I have a good replacement. Here is a schematic. and a bad pic of the lever.. Thanks! PM sent. 6 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Yepp. You can do that. I replaced all my ammeters with voltmeters. I don't like ammeters. If you really want to put an ammeter back I'll send you a couple for the price of freight and you can test them. I would not use a continuity test as that could give a reading while the gauge is shorted. @squonk could tell us how to test one. Thanks! Yeah, I've seen discussions on amp VS volt meters and agree with using a volt meter to replace. If I don't have it replaced by the time I'm ready to try to fire it up again I'll bypass it. 4 hours ago, squonk said: Don.t even bother testing that ammeter. It's shot. either A connect both wires together with a heavy duty connector or B run 1 solid cable from the switch to the battery + on the solenoid. Sounds good. Thanks for that info! Since Lincoln was mentioned first I tried calling him first. According to his website - Saturdays - by appointment only. So I left a message & will try again Monday. Ya'll enjoy your weekend! Mike (HH) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HappyHillbilly 86 #9 Posted March 21, 2019 I just wanted to give a big shout of "Thanks" to @daveoman1966 (Dave) for the good motion control lever & speedy shipping. I haven't installed it yet but will soon. BTW - I've got other parts on the way from Lincoln @A-Z Tractor. Thanks, everyone! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HappyHillbilly 86 #10 Posted April 21, 2019 Hi, folks! I'm having trouble getting the old control lever shaft to budge. Figured I'd better ask questions before I mess something up. - I'm following the service manual - I have removed the bolt from the motion control shaft tab - parking brake assembly - nut holding pin to rear of motion control assembly - relieved spring tension Manual says to "Pull shaft out far enough to expose/remove woodruff key". PULL- my fanny!!! I used a punch to try to beat it out and it only budged about 1/8". Am i missin' somethin' other than a few marbles?? Thanks! HH Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,745 #11 Posted April 22, 2019 The shaft is probably stuck tight to the components on it. Use some penetrant to loosen the parts...may take some time. The shaft has to be pulled to the LEFT just a bit to expose the WOODRUFF KEY (3) so it can be removed for the shaft (1) to withdraw thru the brass bushing (2). This is the Friction base Motion Control System. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HappyHillbilly 86 #12 Posted April 22, 2019 Thanks, Dave. Good to know I’m on the right path. I sprayed it pretty good, the best I could, and will try again tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to post those pics because that gives me a better idea of how far it’s gotta come out to get the key. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HappyHillbilly 86 #13 Posted April 22, 2019 Finally got it out with a lot of hard work & hillbilly ingenuity. The culprit that wouldn't allow the shaft to slide out was the threaded sleeve - part #10 - in the photos Dave posted. I don't think I'd have figured it out if Dave hadn't posted those actual photos. Yeah, I've seen the diagrams but it's just not the same. Thank you, Dave! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
