Dano101 32 #1 Posted March 11, 2019 Hey guys new to the site long time wheel horse owner. Just picked up a D160 tractor been a long time favorite of mine and finally got one for a great price. Tractor came with a mower deck and 3 point hitch no rear pto though would like one if I can find one. Also noticed the cooling fan for the hydro unit is missing at least I think it is. But as you all may know coming across attachments or anything for a D is very hard, so I figured I’d ask on here maybe anyone may have something especially in the Connecticut area would be great. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,691 #2 Posted March 11, 2019 You'll find lots of good info and help here! If you haven't already, take a look through the Classified For Sale Section for attachments. Also post what your looking for in the wanted section. Just a suggestion, but you might also take a look through the "sold" for Sale archives to get a feel for price and whats common verses rare out there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Super-C 4 me 612 #3 Posted March 11, 2019 Dano101 I have some D series parts I do not have a rear PTO but let me know if there is anything else you are looking for. Brian 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,168 #4 Posted March 11, 2019 I've got the complete PTO setup, came off my D180. The steering got bad on it and in order to get to the Ross box the only I could figure how to get to it was to remove the PTO. So since I never used it anyhow I removed all of the parts and set it aside (I have another tractor with PTO) The problem would come in shipping the darn thing, its about 5 feet long..... I guess if someone wanted it bad enough?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dano101 32 #5 Posted March 11, 2019 2 hours ago, bmiller0457 said: Dano101 I have some D series parts I do not have a rear PTO but let me know if there is anything else you are looking for. Brian If I did my research right there’s supposed to be an electric cooling fan for the hydro pump looks like it’s missing on mine. Would you happen to have one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dano101 32 #6 Posted March 11, 2019 19 minutes ago, pacer said: I've got the complete PTO setup, came off my D180. The steering got bad on it and in order to get to the Ross box the only I could figure how to get to it was to remove the PTO. So since I never used it anyhow I removed all of the parts and set it aside (I have another tractor with PTO) The problem would come in shipping the darn thing, its about 5 feet long..... I guess if someone wanted it bad enough?? Very true it’s probably a pretty penny to ship. Is the rear pto just for the tiller? Or are there other attachments it can run? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dano101 32 #7 Posted March 11, 2019 2 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: You'll find lots of good info and help here! If you haven't already, take a look through the Classified For Sale Section for attachments. Also post what your looking for in the wanted section. Just a suggestion, but you might also take a look through the "sold" for Sale archives to get a feel for price and whats common verses rare out there. Thank you oliver2-44 I’ve already done some searching on the site and found a lot of useful stuff! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,168 #8 Posted March 11, 2019 26 minutes ago, Dano101 said: supposed to be an electric cooling fan for the hydro pump looks like it’s missing on mine. I dunno, I've had 5 of the D's and only one of them had a fan, and it was the latest model. The others were older and there was no indication there was ever a fan. Hah, and the one I got was frozen solid and probably hadnt worked in years! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,669 #9 Posted March 11, 2019 Fans came only n later d series. You can probably adopt a defroster type fan very easily. i can't as i have the easy ride seat. no room for the fan. The correct mounting bracket for the fan will clear the rear PTO not the seat. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dano101 32 #10 Posted March 11, 2019 51 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Fans came only n later d series. You can probably adopt a defroster type fan very easily. i can't as i have the easy ride seat. no room for the fan. The correct mounting bracket for the fan will clear the rear PTO not the seat. Ok good to know. I think from what I can see with the model number mine is a 1980. If I look it had the power wire running to the back for a fan and you can also see where the mount was at one point and the 2 bolts are now missing. Also looks like it may of had a rear pto at one point because it looks like there was a bearing bolted in the rear where it should of been mounted. Is the fan even needed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dano101 32 #11 Posted March 11, 2019 2 hours ago, pacer said: I dunno, I've had 5 of the D's and only one of them had a fan, and it was the latest model. The others were older and there was no indication there was ever a fan. Hah, and the one I got was frozen solid and probably hadnt worked in years! Haha good to know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,669 #12 Posted March 11, 2019 31 minutes ago, Dano101 said: Ok good to know. I think from what I can see with the model number mine is a 1980. If I look it had the power wire running to the back for a fan and you can also see where the mount was at one point and the 2 bolts are now missing. Also looks like it may of had a rear pto at one point because it looks like there was a bearing bolted in the rear where it should of been mounted. Is the fan even needed? i had an overheating issue and i mounted a small 4" computer type box fan. Didn't do much but neither did it move much air. Real solution was tear down of the hydro polished up slippers and one valve plate and a new valve plate in the pump. Runs strong now and no overheating issues. the overheating comes from the excessive internal leakage from worn and scratched parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Super-C 4 me 612 #13 Posted March 11, 2019 3 hours ago, Dano101 said: If I did my research right there’s supposed to be an electric cooling fan for the hydro pump looks like it’s missing on mine. Would you happen to have one? I do have one PM me and I'll give you my number Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,083 #14 Posted March 11, 2019 Looks like you are getting your needs covered by members who own "Ds". I don't own one, but glad you found us . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dano101 32 #15 Posted March 11, 2019 1 hour ago, pfrederi said: i had an overheating issue and i mounted a small 4" computer type box fan. Didn't do much but neither did it move much air. Real solution was tear down of the hydro polished up slippers and one valve plate and a new valve plate in the pump. Runs strong now and no overheating issues. the overheating comes from the excessive internal leakage from worn and scratched parts. Well unfortunately I haven’t ran mine long enough to see if it acts up or not. Trans feels strong as of now only issue I have is the front seal on the hydro pump leaks a little bit not sure where to get the seal looks like I can separate the motor and pump pull the cupler off pop old seal out and put a new one in. Just the matter of finding a new seal. Any idea of where to get one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,669 #16 Posted March 11, 2019 Seal is no problem. CR 7475. You should download the sundstrand manual and read how to move the engine ahead and get to the seal. There is also a TSB on how to make sure your engine an pump are in alignment.. Working on a D series is work. not a fun afternoon project in the driveway. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dano101 32 #17 Posted March 12, 2019 1 hour ago, pfrederi said: Seal is no problem. CR 7475. You should download the sundstrand manual and read how to move the engine ahead and get to the seal. There is also a TSB on how to make sure your engine an pump are in alignment.. Working on a D series is work. not a fun afternoon project in the driveway. Wow what a procedure! Thanks for all the information! I can tell you already why the seal probably went. Previous owner took off one of the side panels and one of the bolts was the mounting bolt for the hydro bracket. I noticed when I got it running that when you drive it the torque of it moves the pump up and down which now throws the pump and engine out of alignment. So looks like I’m pulling the 2 apart and resealing and realigning the two! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,669 #18 Posted March 12, 2019 You will need to look carefully at the cast part of the coupling. The splines are easily stripped out. it is a weak spot. @Sarge had his repaired but it was an involved process. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Super-C 4 me 612 #19 Posted March 12, 2019 hey @Dano101 this is the shaft that runs the rear PTO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dano101 32 #20 Posted March 12, 2019 1 hour ago, bmiller0457 said: hey @Dano101 this is the shaft that runs the rear PTO @bmiller0457 now to find one 😅 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,463 #21 Posted March 12, 2019 There is a good chance that if the pump was allowed to run out of line with the engine flywheel it has damaged the input shaft bearing in the pump housing - that will also indicate why the shaft seal is leaking oil. At this point, if you move the engine ahead far enough to work on the pump you may want to remove the pump and replace the bearing and shaft seal while you're at it - or risk having to tear into it again. Spend some time inspecting those shaft splines and that engine coupling - as Paul said, they are a known weak spot and there are no new parts available for the coupling. LJ Fluid Power has new shafts available that they had manufactured - almost $200 but for what it is I'd say that's pretty cheap. Once that coupling strips the teeth out of itself and the pump shaft - the tractor is dead. Yes, I repaired one but it was at a pretty big expense - we added in a different center spline from a C-series late model hydro drive pulley and added a keyway in both the coupling and the splined pump shaft. Not a fun ordeal - I probably had that pump in/out 6 times before everything was right. Removing that pump is a very frustrating job - I've been a mechanic for 40yrs and worked on things that no one else could fix, but that tractor will make you lose your mind. It takes a very long 5/16" Allen head socket to crack those bolts loose that mount the pump to the hydraulic line block mounted just below the pump's head end portion - the bolts are on the bottom side and two of them use nuts on top that are tough to get a wrench to fit onto. There are 2 different types of O-ring seals in there, one set is a stack and it is no fun trying to install that pump and not knock them out of alignment. That said, if the engine is completely out it makes the whole job a lot easier, but it can be left on the very front edge of the frame to remove the pump if you want. The pump internals isn't too bad to work on if you have good, basic mechanical knowledge. I'd highly suggest downloading that Sundstrand manual and reading the entire thing before taking on anything to do with that pump system. Again, LJ Fluid parts have the seals, bearings, and gaskets needed to work on that pump - they also have the knowledge and know these things inside and out. Be specific and to the point with them - this shop is very busy but are a great resource. This thread will give you an idea of what you're getting into here - https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/32936-rebuilding-a-hydro-pump-from-a-d/#comment-283485 https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/54952-charger-12-transmission/ https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/52024-sundstrand-challenges/?page=2 Here is how I fixed that pump coupling issue - https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/72096-d-180-pump-coupling-alignment/?tab=comments#comment-685635 Sarge 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dano101 32 #22 Posted March 12, 2019 @Sarge that’s not the knees I want to hear 😢. Me being the cheap bastard I am I’ll check the splines put a new seal in and go from there. Unfortunately I got more important things that money is going to have to go to at the moment Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,463 #23 Posted March 14, 2019 To answer your PM - That splined washer is an odd part and was part of an attempt to make the coupling joint to the pump stronger by giving the coupling a way to square itself to the shaft splines better. They are no longer available that I'm aware of, anywhere - but you could give LJ Fluid Power a call and ask. Even if the shaft is perfectly clean as well as the internal splines in that coupling it should be fairly difficult to remove or install - otherwise, it is worn as most are. If it is tough to get it on - consider yourself lucky and spend the time to try to line that engine back up exactly where it was originally sitting. As to the spacer - it is not required but I'm sure for some reason the engineers felt it was necessary. I think most of the D-180/200 models did not have that spacer - so I wouldn't sweat it, personally. Sarge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dano101 32 #24 Posted March 15, 2019 12 hours ago, Sarge said: To answer your PM - That splined washer is an odd part and was part of an attempt to make the coupling joint to the pump stronger by giving the coupling a way to square itself to the shaft splines better. They are no longer available that I'm aware of, anywhere - but you could give LJ Fluid Power a call and ask. Even if the shaft is perfectly clean as well as the internal splines in that coupling it should be fairly difficult to remove or install - otherwise, it is worn as most are. If it is tough to get it on - consider yourself lucky and spend the time to try to line that engine back up exactly where it was originally sitting. As to the spacer - it is not required but I'm sure for some reason the engineers felt it was necessary. I think most of the D-180/200 models did not have that spacer - so I wouldn't sweat it, personally. Sarge Sorry I didn’t see that you responded here. The coupler and washer were extremely tight hence the reason why the washer broke on me trying to come off. I tried putting the coupler back on today to take a couple pictures and I couldn’t even get it on all the way before it got tight. So I’m hoping to put this seal back in and line everything back up the same way it came off minus the washer now unfortunately. Hopefully all goes well and it lasts the life of the tractor! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,463 #25 Posted March 15, 2019 Since the spacer will be missing you'll need to get that coupling on the shaft as far as possible or risk the thing stripping itself out - this is the weakest point of the design on the D series. Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
