91760618 1961-Sears/David Bradley Update

[ebinmaine 67,502]

I'm okay with that. They can have it.

My honey and I each have a smartphone. No home internet. No home cable. No time or even desire to watch it.

we'd both rather stick to puttering with stuff or projects or equipment around the house or just being outside in general.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

Man, that would be a dream come true to be done with media altogether........

[ebinmaine 67,502]

4 minutes ago, oldman said:

Man, that would be a dream come true to be done with media altogether........

Redsquare is the only social media site that I use. Couple places to get my news. Searches so that we can figure out how to do things for ourselves around the house and yard. Online shopping. That's about where we're at.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

I found the pto pulley wasn't in place and couldn't be "moved". The set screw was fused. I got out the nasty bearing puller and had at it! Made sure to get back behind the inside and reverse my collars! After it was pulled off I drilled and tapped a 5/16 x 18 set screw hole, bigger is better on this one.Then I turned down the drive shaft with 220 and clean-threaded the 7/16 x 20 for the missing bolt! The 1/2 x 29 belt was soft and just jammed up into the center of the first double drive pulley. That was fun getting out. I then found it looked as though that belt should've  been  5/8 and viola, it is designed for 5/8! On top of all that, the pull rope broke! I just wrapped the rope around the drive shaft until I fixed the recoil, "again".

 

Fun

Edited March 29, 2019 by oldman

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

Here I "robbed" Peter to pay Paul! Final coat on the shroud and swapped carburetor re-paint. The 5/8 x 29 front belt, Napa.

Edited March 31, 2019 by oldman

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

Well, I wanted the engine going and I got that in spades! Time to tear down the drive train and begin the rebuild /paint process......I made the one tool and have to get a huge adjustable wrench!

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

Ok, I picked up a 10 dollar tool, chain wrench, "Pittsburg". Once I got the direction figured out, lol, this combined with the pin tool did the trick! The clutch facing is hardly worn and you can see the crud that was locking it up! Now it's all clean and loose I can assemble it and make adjustments accordingly, "I hope" anyways!

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

Well, I got it working and had to make four adjustments. Reverse was working, however forwards was iffy. So moved the pulley 1/12 clockwise and tightened the lock bolt. Then I was looking at the through-out plate and got it exactly as the book. Made a final adjustment on the reverse cable and viola! (The reverse cable was messed up a bit, I took it off the drilled cap bolt and straightened the threaded section. Also, the frey was a mess.) 

Over-all the clutch was set way too tight to begin with and I couldn't even find neutral or forward, it was just seized up and went forward off the speed selector. It has all three now. I even tested it on some steep inclines and the governor kicked in great. Very satisfied with it's performance for a 7hp. I love the painting process and this will be a simple job now. The hood will need some special "body-work".......

All credit due to Jabelman for his instruction and kind assist.

 

Oldman

Edited April 4, 2019 by oldman

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

Took it apart once again and made some changes on the fuel system & paint, plenty of clear coat this time to avoid those nasty finger prints! After the start-up the fuel was leaking from the emulsion tube, then overflowing. I will re-seat the tube back and forth until I hear the faint crack of the brass "seating" This wasn't enough, had to use sealer with PTFE.This engine 170402-2215-01 is replacing 143497 series.Retro-fit the tin & oil bath assembly.

Edited April 14, 2019 by oldman