Wont go into gear

[Vintner 17]

I have a WH riding mower that came with a plow attachment. It's the 1st riding mower I've ever owned. I'm pretty sure it was made in 1986 & is a 310-8. I've never been able to find a model number anywhere on the mower, but got some help here last spring identifying the year & model. Anyway, We got 14" of snow last Nov which was too much for the tractor to handle. My wife isn't too familiar with the machine & was spinning the tires a lot in the snow & grinding the gears. Eventually it stopped going into gear when the clutch pedal was depressed. It would just grind gears. It's not a hydrolic clutch. I'm just now finding time to look into what the problem is. Any suggestions or threads anyone can point me towards to get me started? Any help is greatly appreciated. 

Thanks

[stevasaurus 22,869]

Hopefully, it is a stretched belt.  That is where to start...how much your wife grinded gears...that is next.  Check the belt 1st. 

[pfrederi 17,886]

Couple of things.  When you step on the clutch does the drive belt stop moving?? 

[953 nut 55,822]

It could be that the device (dogpoint screw) which holds the shift lever in correct alignment is in need of a little tightening.

This thread will tell you what to look for.

 

[Vintner 17]

Thanks for the very quick replies! Sorry for my lack of knowledge about how these machines work. Otherwise I would have posted more info in my 1st post. The drive belt is good & tight, & yes it continues to turn when the clutch peddle is depressed. My wife wasn't grinding the gears a lot. She's just very short & can't push the peddle all the way in without scooting forward on the seat. I haven't had a chance too look into 953 nut's suggestion yet. Should that be my next step?

[pfrederi 17,886]

The belt should stop moving when the clutch is depressed all the way that is why it is grinding. Is the belt guard in place?

[Vintner 17]

Yes, everything is in place, & nothing is loose.

[pfrederi 17,886]

OK First look at the bent wire bolted to the engine block in the picture.  The other end (Which I can't get a clear shot of) should be very close to the drive belt. 1/8" or so.  When you step on the clutch the belt should get loose on the engine pulley and move forward a bit.  It should not turn when clutch is depressed.  Also look under the right side foot plate there is a flange bolted on the bottom the belt should be sitting on top of it. 

 

Incidental the clutch pedal positioning is adjustable to bring it closer to the operator for vertically challenges operators.

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,096]

Clutch pedal rod #14 is threaded into a #22 trunnion at the rear. Take the cotter pin out at the padel and you should be able to shorten the rod for a shorter driver.

 

Garry

[Vintner 17]

OK, that checks out fine. the other end of that metal rod is about 3/16" from the drive belt, & the belt slacks off & kisses it when I push the clutch petal. Also, the belt is on top of that flange you mentioned under the right foot plate. Thanks for the tip about the adjustable clutch pedal. I'll look @ that if I ever let my wife use the machine again. She has a habit of breaking something or running over something whenever she's on it LOL. I suspect it runs along the same line as me when I mess up the dish or cloths washer anytime I use them LOL!

[pfrederi 17,886]

Does the belt stop moving (engine running) when you fully depress the clutch pedal?? If not that is why the grinding.  If it does not stop I wold take off the belt guard and see what is going on with the idler pulley...

[953 nut 55,822]

3 hours ago, Vintner said:

She has a habit of breaking something or running over something whenever she's on it LOL. I suspect it runs along the same line as me when I mess up the dish or cloths washer anytime I use them

             Sound like both of you are normal!                

[Vintner 17]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

Does the belt stop moving (engine running) when you fully depress the clutch pedal?? If not that is why the grinding.  If it does not stop I wold take off the belt guard and see what is going on with the idler pulley...

No, the belt does not stop moving when the clutch is depressed. I will check out that idler pulley in the am. Thanks.

[The Tuul Crib 7,337]

What about the break adjustment. I know it sounds odd but my 855 did the same thing and that helped me from the gear grinding.   There is a balance between each other.

[Ed Kennell 38,681]

14 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Clutch pedal rod #14 is threaded into a #22 trunnion at the rear. Take the cotter pin out at the padel and you should be able to shorten the rod for a shorter driver.

 

Garry

It is possible the #17 pin  is sheared and not releasing the belt properly.   With the pedal up, put a line across the lever #18 and the shaft #21.    Then push the pedal down.  If the line is disconnected, the pin is sheared and must be removed and replaced

[Vintner 17]

6 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

It is possible the #11 pin  is sheared and not releasing the belt properly.   With the pedal up, put a line across the lever #18 and the shaft #21.    Then push the pedal down.  If the line is disconnected, the pin is sheared and must be removed and replaced

I'm sorry, but I can not locate a # 11 on that diagram. Is it the fuzzy thing under the number 12? Or did you mean 17 instead of 11? In which case it could be 17 or 50. I will check them. I will look into adjusting the break as well. 

Thanks guys!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,096]

It is #17 pin.

3/16" x 1-1/4" spirol pin

Much like a split pin but the metal has multiple rolls making it much stronger.

 

The fuzzy thing under the #12 is an Allen set screw to secure the collar to the round bar.

 

Item #50 is a 5/32" x 1-1/4" spirol pin and goes just through the rod to keep it positioned endwise in the chassis.

 

Garry

[953 nut 55,822]

9 hours ago, The Tool Crib said:

What about the break adjustment. I know it sounds odd but my 855 did the same thing and that helped me from the gear grinding.   There is a balance between each other.

On the 300 series the clutch and break each have their own pedal and linkages.

[Ed Kennell 38,681]

2 hours ago, Vintner said:

I'm sorry, but I can not locate a # 11 on that diagram. Is it the fuzzy thing under the number 12? Or did you mean 17 instead of 11? In which case it could be 17 or 50. I will check them. I will look into adjusting the break as well. 

Thanks guys!

Sorry, It is the #17 pin that I was referring to.      Dang tired old eyes.  

I have bought several tractors that were probably parked because they would not go in gear and I discovered the #17 pin was sheared.    I found it is easier to install the new pin if I drill and tap the lever for a set screw to keep the lever and shaft in alignment.    I use a small pin punch to align the holes, then tighten the set screw, then drive in the new pin.