FatJackDurham 318 #1 Posted February 27, 2019 While I wait for Winter to progress to Rain, and then to Mud and finally to Build season, I am mulling over the subframe for the loader I want to build this summer. I've been poking around the forum, looking at pictures and I wanted find out what others have done, or have. 953Nut - It seems like your GT-14 attachment is bolted directly to the frame under the foot rests, and to the front for the brace. Is this correct? I saw a few cases where there was an attachment at the mid-point Tach-a-Matic, and then hung off the rear axle housing with a weight box off the end, is this Correct? I was wondering about weight limits on the Tach-a-matics on the front and mid points and if it's okay to hang the frame off of those instead of bolting on. I recall a build that I can't find any more where I think an entire box frame was built front to rear. I want to know how that was attached. So, tell me the pros and cons about bolting to the frame directly, hanging off the axles, etc. I've seen pictures of cracked frames just from 60 inch decks, so I am trying to figure out the best way to do this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cschannuth 3,815 #2 Posted February 27, 2019 (edited) I don’t know if mine is good or not but it does attach at six different locations. It attaches to the front where the attach a matic used to be, it attaches in the center underneath the dash tower, and it attaches to the rear axles. I wanted to spread the weight as evenly as I possibly could. I had quarter inch by 2 inch angle iron so that’s what I used. Box tubing probably would be better from a torsional rigidity standpoint. Edited February 27, 2019 by cschannuth 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 54,135 #3 Posted February 27, 2019 57 minutes ago, FatJackDurham said: 953Nut - It seems like your GT-14 attachment is bolted directly to the frame under the foot rests, and to the front for the brace. Is this correct? The sub-frame on my GT-14 is a continuous sub-frame attached to the tractor frame at the front, center and rear of the transmission at the axles. The sub-frame is considerably heavier then the tractor frame and transfers all loader related stresses to the ground through the axles. If done any other way the stresses of the loader would weaken the frame over time. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FatJackDurham 318 #4 Posted February 27, 2019 1 hour ago, 953 nut said: The sub-frame on my GT-14 is a continuous sub-frame attached to the tractor frame at the front, center and rear of the transmission at the axles. The sub-frame is considerably heavier then the tractor frame and transfers all loader related stresses to the ground through the axles. If done any other way the stresses of the loader would weaken the frame over time. Okay. From the pictures it looked like it was attached to the tractor Frame. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FatJackDurham 318 #5 Posted February 27, 2019 6 hours ago, cschannuth said: I don’t know if mine is good or not but it does attach at six different locations. It attaches to the front where the attach a matic used to be, it attaches in the center underneath the dash tower, and it attaches to the rear axles. I wanted to spread the weight as evenly as I possibly could. I had quarter inch by 2 inch angle iron so that’s what I used. Box tubing probably would be better from a torsional rigidity standpoint. Thanks for the photos, I've been trying to find a really clear set for the subframe. That's a great set. So it looks like you removed the rear and mid Tach-A-Matics and used the bolt holes for your frame, right. That answers one of my other questions which was how to you extend your front end of the frame in front of the front axle. Answer, you didn't. I also like the tow hitch arrangement. I think I saw a post about your weight arrangement. Were you the one who cracked the transmission casting with too much weight? How much is the max for your setup do you think? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cschannuth 3,815 #6 Posted February 27, 2019 13 minutes ago, FatJackDurham said: Thanks for the photos, I've been trying to find a really clear set for the subframe. That's a great set. So it looks like you removed the rear and mid Tach-A-Matics and used the bolt holes for your frame, right. That answers one of my other questions which was how to you extend your front end of the frame in front of the front axle. Answer, you didn't. I also like the tow hitch arrangement. I think I saw a post about your weight arrangement. Were you the one who cracked the transmission casting with too much weight? How much is the max for your setup do you think? Yeah all the way up front in front of the axles I just bolted on a bumper and that’s where my angle braces attach. Everyplace else I just use existing holes in the frame to attach at the front point of the subframe and the centerpoint of the subframe. I just assumed that if I drilled more holes it would weaken the tractors frame so I did not want to do that. And out back I just sandwiched the axle between my sub frame on the bottom and the hitch on top. I actually added a small piece of angle on each side on top of the axle and hitch to strengthen up and reinforce that hitch angle. I have not cracked a frame before but I could see how it could be easily done. I feel like my sub frame actually makes my tractor frame stronger and vice versa. I created a weight mount that goes into the receiver hitch and I have about 300 pounds of weight on it. I also feel like the sub frame helps support the rear hitch. I weigh about 250 pounds and have stood on the weights in the back and bounced a little bit and it seems really solid. If I were to do it again and I had to buy the subframe steel I would use box steel and extend it out back past the axle far enough to mount a weight holder on that instead of attaching it to a hitch. I think that would be more stable. However you would lose the flexibility of the receiver hitch. The loader itself feels like you can lift more than the rear of the tractor can hold down. My boys weigh a total of about 500 pounds and they sat on top of the bucket and it lifted them like they weren’t even there. Here are a few more pics that might help. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask any time. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,720 #7 Posted February 27, 2019 The mid Tach A Matic is definitely strong enough to use for the sub-frame of a FEL, if you do decide to go that route. The factory Ark loader sub-frame is designed that way. It attaches to the mid Tach A Matic point and attaches to the rear axle on each side of the trans. It was designed for "easy" removal and installation so basically you could separate the loader part off of the tractor using the FEL hydraulics, remove the pump and those parts remain together. Then drop the sub-frame off by loosening 2 sinch bolts at the trans, pull out the 2 pins above the trans axle and release the mid Tach A Matic to drop it. Fairly simple design but still easier said than done for removal and installation. Best to have a dedicated FEL tractor in my opinion but it's there to do if required. Mine has been worked hard and put away wet since 2008 and never had any issues with the mounts or sub-frame at all. Plus it gets more of a work out by the back hoe. 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shynon 7,445 #8 Posted February 28, 2019 Here's mine. It's a copy of a wheel horse loader subframe. Attaches to the mid attach matic and rear axle, stabilizer rods attach to the front attach matic. 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,265 #9 Posted February 28, 2019 3 hours ago, Shynon said: Here's mine. It's a copy of a wheel horse loader subframe. Attaches to the mid attach matic and rear axle, stabilizer rods attach to the front attachmatic. 2 @Shynon Do you have drawings for that? I have an ARK 500 from the mid-1970s that I would like to modify the sub-frame to fit on my 416-H. I don't weld or fabricate, so I need drawing for my welder buddy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #10 Posted February 28, 2019 I think @wallfish has a good drawing of the sub frame.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FatJackDurham 318 #11 Posted February 28, 2019 Guys, thanks for all the photos. It's definitely what I was looking for. Shynon, especially, thanks. I was trying to decide if I should use the Tach-A-Matic like yours. It's good to see that it works, and that's how I am going to go. I've seen the wallfish drawing, but having the photos is a big plus. What is the top bold hold on the bracket for the mid frame tachamatic for? I couldn't quite see in the picture. Is there a bolt hole on the frame or tach bracket, or do you slide a rod across the top of the frame for extra support? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,720 #12 Posted February 28, 2019 10 hours ago, roadapples said: I think @wallfish has a good drawing of the sub frame.... That drawing doesn't have the measurements needed to send it to someone else to build. The measurements can be taken from the tractor. Mid Tach pin to rear axle, Tach width, axle width points of attachment ect. ect. Or leave the tractor with the welder and he can whip it out to fit exactly on the tractor. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shynon 7,445 #13 Posted February 28, 2019 18 hours ago, rmaynard said: @Shynon Do you have drawings for that? I have an ARK 500 from the mid-1970s that I would like to modify the sub-frame to fit on my 416-H. I don't weld or fabricate, so I need drawing for my welder buddy. Don't have any drawings, I was copying from the subframe of @prondzy loader. 9 hours ago, FatJackDurham said: What is the top bold hold on the bracket for the mid frame tachamatic for? I couldn't quite see in the picture. Is there a bolt hole on the frame or tach bracket, or do you slide a rod across the top of the frame for extra support? There is a bar that is welded to the frame the locks into the mid tachamatic then a bolt goes through on of the tachamatic holes through the frame. Can probably get more pics if needed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FatJackDurham 318 #14 Posted March 1, 2019 That sounds easy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burkee welding 1 #15 Posted July 4, 2019 So I'm new here and I have been skimming through the form for the last two hours so far this is the best loader Trend I have come across. I was curious to see if you've made any progress on building your subframe and loader attachments 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,031 #16 Posted July 4, 2019 9 hours ago, Burkee welding said: So I'm new here and I have been skimming through the form for the last two hours so far this is the best loader Trend I have come across. I was curious to see if you've made any progress on building your subframe and loader attachments 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ecsi635j 34 #18 Posted January 6, 2021 On 2/27/2019 at 4:07 PM, Shynon said: Here's mine. It's a copy of a wheel horse loader subframe. Attaches to the mid attach matic and rear axle, stabilizer rods attach to the front attach matic. On 2/27/2019 at 4:07 PM, Shynon said: Here's mine. It's a copy of a wheel horse loader subframe. Attaches to the mid attach matic and rear axle, stabilizer rods attach to the front attach matic. @Shynon I'm not sure I'm posting this correctly. I wanted to reference one of your posts from quite a while ago together with one of your pictures of the way you went about fabing your loader tower braces.I noticed you used round tubing with the ends flattened as opposed to square tubing welded and bolted to brackets as suggested in the PF engineering drawings which I purchased. I'm at the point where I would like to take the same route in as much as using tubing Flattened at the ends which appears to be a more common practice. I've completed the subframe and towers and the front tower brace bracket which I have attached to the front Attach -Matic. Your picture is of the front end where you see your brace bracket and lower brace attachment point . I'm in hope's that maybe you might also have a picture of the full length of the right side tower brace and how you managed to clear the PTO which seems to have very little clearance for the right side tubing brace. Here are some pictures of what I'm referring to. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shynon 7,445 #19 Posted January 6, 2021 Hope this helps @ecsi635j 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ecsi635j 34 #20 Posted January 6, 2021 Thank you @Shynon 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites