Painting my 211 Wheel horse

[tgordonjr 0]

Hi all, I am going to be preping, primer, and painting my tractor and trailer using rustoleum spray cans. I was going to have it done professionally but not in the budget, however I am a hands on guy so I will give it a try. I just have a few questions of things I am not sure about.

1. Prime metal, let it dry and sand w/220 then prime again

now after I do a 2nd coat of primer I was going to wet sand it. What grit should I use and is it just like it sounds (wet sanding), I dont mean to sound dumb but is it just getting the sand paper wet and sanding or is anything else involved

2. Painting, I will be using the closest match that I can find, I was just going to put on light coats and sand in between coats. How many coats should I put on and do I wet sand all the coats too, if so what grits should I use and how many coats? and do I sand the last coat or just let the paint dry?

3. Clear coat, should I use I clear coat, I have read a few of the post and ppl say that it cracks over time. Also should I sand clear coat or just put on a few light coats with no sanding. again not trying to sound like a complete idiot, but can you wax clear coat out of a can to shine it up, or should I just paint it with no clear coat and wax the paint.

I have already started to prep and prime the trailer. Thanks for all your help. Terry. :drool:

[Duff 206]

Terry, I've been using Rustoleum in the rattle cans for my tractors, mainly because I, too, don't have the budget to have it done professionally and don't have a spray setup.

Even though I try to prep the bare surfaces very carefully, I still use rusty metal primer (a little more body that seems to fill in tiny imperfections), and finish with Regal Red. I don't sand in between coats, but rather recoat as soon as the last coat applied "flashes" over. This goes for priming and painting. I usually do two coats of primer, followed by two or three coats of finish all in one sitting. Usually I line up a couple of large panels or a half dozen smaller parts, then run them through in assembly-line fashion. The flashover time seems to work out pretty well this way.

The key I've found is to only paint when the air temp is above 55 degrees, moderate to low humidity, and not to apply any coat too thick!!! I learned the hard way that if I lay down too thick a coat the whole thing can alligator, apparently because the solvents get trapped. Also, when I've painted too cold it tends to orange peel.

As long as I can keep dust out of the mix, I've gotten some pretty glassy finishes, and after 30 days I apply a good coat of auto wax (I use Meguiars, but Turtlewax seems to work pretty well, too). Although Rustoleum hardens terribly slowly, I've found it holds up extremely well.

Let me qualify this by telling you I am far from an expert on painting - just a guy who's had pretty good luck with the steps above. Also, I'm more into rebuilding than true restoration - I know my limits! I both envy and respect the guys who have both the know how and the wherewithall to "do it right".

Good luck!

Duff :drool:

[clintonnut 126]

I have done some body work. I think 220 sounds a little rough between coats of primer. I wet sanded with 600 between coats.

Charlie

[tgordonjr 0]

thanks guys, I will try the 600 grit with wet sanding. I only said 220 because that is what rustoleum says to use on the back of their cans. I will take before and after pics and try to get them up for all to see my progress. Also does anyone know where I could get all of the decals for a 211-5 model? I know of partstree.com but they say that all of their decals are unaviable except for a few of the "warning" decals. I have to say that this is the best WH site around and I want to thank everyone for their info. :omg:

[tgordonjr 0]

Another question, I have been sanding the rust off with my oscillating sander, can I use this to sand inbetween coats or should I use a block? And should I use any kind of compound wax/sealer, I have heard that wax is not good for paint, but to use a buffing wheel and compound sealer, so with this in mind do I do this to my finish coats or to the clear coat. I am iffy on the clear coat, I know that it will bring a shine and protect the paint, but also know it could be a headache.

[clintonnut 126]

We usually use a block so the primer keeps its consistancy. I power sander doesn't give you enough control.

[linen beige 14]

For anyone just learning about all the different ways to prep for and apply all the various refinishing products out there a trip to the library or local book store is WELL worth the time. Look for books on auto restoration and/or repainting.

One very good book if you can find it is The "Standard guide to automotive restoration" by Matt Joseph. It was a Krause publication.

Here's a link to one source.

http://www.impalas.com/books-manuals/-stan...seph/d4824.html

It covers much more than just body work and paint and most of the info is also applicable to our little red machines.

[tgordonjr 0]

going to the library and reading a book on it is a great idea, however, I have neither the time or desire to do that, I am a "give it the good ole college try" kinda guy. I like to just do it and learn from my mistakes. And that is where I am at right now. I have figured out the # of coats for prime and what grit for that # of coat, now my final question I was going to paint it and sand inbetween coats then clear coat it.

1st: the paint I am using is krylon rust tough enamel. should I still clear coat this paint since it is already an enamel or doesnt that matter.

2nd: clear coat; put on my clear coat and sand with 2000 and 2500 grit inbetween coats, then buff and polish for a good shine. how long should I wait untill I would buff and polish? 30 days? again i am just trying to get a good looking result using a paint can and so far with the primer it has come out great.

[joebob 45]

My only suggestion is to start on the smaller pieces and when you get the hang of body work and painting, move up the the bigger pieces, also 220 grit is what you would finish sanding body filler or old paint off with, then prime and move up from there to what ever grit you would like after that

[bk-scouter 93]

Lots of good advice Terry. Don't forget to post pictures here during your restoration. Good luck, I'm sure it will come out great.

-BK

[tgordonjr 0]

just want to say thanks to everyone that has helped me with this project, even though I sounded like a broken record. Your comments have been great. I have finished the trailer and it looks like I took it to a professional painter. I am very pleased with how it turned out. It was a great learning experience, time consuming, but a great experience, and I am excited to start the mower deck and tractor. Still trying to find decals for it but will work around that.

I am trying to get pics up so yall can see how it turned out. Thanks again

:drool: