1076 control lever

[Stepney 2,325]

Hello, all. Came into ownership of a quite nice 1076 the other day. Having some issues with the drive control on the hydro. Apparently the nylon cam on the hydro was replaced recently, but the shift lever still binds up around neutral, and once moving either direction, the lever simply advances on it's own if you let go. I had a 1077 just like that. No matter how much tension I put on the binder screws, it still slides on it's own. If I keep up I'll flatten the springs. I assume this is why they added the friction cone in 1968?

Has anyone got a remedy to this issue? I have a '69 Charger I may end up parting out, in the worst case I imagine I could add that cone in and nobody would know the difference. But I would like to keep it correct if possible.

[SPINJIM 1,981]

I have a 1076 with the same problem.  I have considered switching out parts from a Charger, but found that the linkage is different.  The cam plate is the same, but the pivot with the friction cone and spring are mounted differently.  One of my projects for this year is to try to solve the problem, so if you find a compatible control setup, I'd be very interested.  I was using the 1076 for my snow plow, but I need three hands to hold the speed control, the steering wheel, and the plow blade.  

   Jim

Edited February 21, 2019 by SPINJIM

[Mike'sHorseBarn 3,014]

I have the springs flattened on my 1076 and still have the same issue you are describing. I'm like Jim, if you figure out a way to fix it I'd love to see it!

[Stepney 2,325]

I'm generally a stickler for originality, but to be honest, I might just put that entire center pan assembly from the Charger onto this 1067 if I can't figure it out any other way. From what I see, the .. I'm not sure exactly on what the word is, but let's call it the center, is otherwise the same. I intend to use this quite a bit for mowing, and this will prove to be a real pain if it keeps up. I plan to tear into it later int he year at some point. I was hoping someone in here had a simple fix I was missing, haha. 

[Sarge 3,463]

On my 1277 - I just got used to it and use the brake pedal to control the hydro. I have to hold the handle in reverse due to the handle's design and weight, but in forward I can just regulate the thing with the brake pedal and the center return function of that pedal. Basically, I can use that pedal like a foot control on the hydro and find it is pretty handy overall. For that reason, I've never upgraded or changed it to the later version with the friction cone. I know one thing that helps is to replace those springs that hold tension against the nylon cam plate - over time they become weak and don't hold enough friction to offset the weight of the direction control handle. Being able to control the forward direction on the hydro with the brake pedal has the benefit of leaving both hands free - I can steer and operate the hydraulic lift easily while controlling the speed. Not so easy on my other models that were built later - I kind of prefer the 1277 for that very reason. 

 

Sarge

[ACman 7,620]

Here's a simple fix.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/71461-do-you-have-a-creeper-problem/?tab=comments#comment-678620

 

[squonk 41,346]

For the extra needed hand for the lift. Take an old hydro control lever and with some enginuity, make a new lift lever that extends to the height of the steering wheel. That way your hand is on the wheel and you can use your last 2 or 3 fingers to operate the lift. Looks stock to the non WH folks.

[Herder 2,354]

I had the same problem with one of my C160s.  Here's what I found and I will try to explain it the best I can.  The motion control assemble is held together and in place by a center rod.  your friction disk, tension nut, spring, ect all go over it.  This rod/shaft is stationary and may have a welded tab that is held/screwed the sheet metal of the tractor.  The tab on mine was broke, this allowed the tractor to speed up when driving it.  Basically ever thing was moving together.  The cone end of the friction disk is keyed to the stationary shaft.  This allows you to select and maintain a steady speed.  The shaft was a challenge to change.                 

[Mike'sHorseBarn 3,014]

1 hour ago, ACman said:

Here's a simple fix.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/71461-do-you-have-a-creeper-problem/?tab=comments#comment-678620

 

 

That's genius!! lol

[Stepney 2,325]

1 hour ago, Herder said:

I had the same problem with one of my C160s.  Here's what I found and I will try to explain it the best I can.  The motion control assemble is held together and in place by a center rod.  your friction disk, tension nut, spring, ect all go over it.  This rod/shaft is stationary and may have a welded tab that is held/screwed the sheet metal of the tractor.  The tab on mine was broke, this allowed the tractor to speed up when driving it.  Basically ever thing was moving together.  The cone end of the friction disk is keyed to the stationary shaft.  This allows you to select and maintain a steady speed.  The shaft was a challenge to change.                 

 

This is true on the later models, my B100 actually did that. But these older ones, don't have the disc. The only friction is 2 little tabs on the nylon plate. 

[wfrpalm 218]

I have a 875 that had that problem. I took a 20" bicycle tube and cut two strips from it ( like rubber bands ) and stretched these over one side of the steel things that rub against the nylon block and that fixed the problem. I only drive the tractor a few times a year but they have held up so far. I would think some kind of thick coating would also work.

[Sarge 3,463]

Weak springs on the early design were the main issue here - once they lose tension the block doesn't have enough friction to hold the cam plate tight enough to offset the weight of the handle. Another way to deal with the lack of tension is a counter spring on the inside of the rocker assembly to help hold up the weight of the direction control arm. 

 

Sarge