1998 522XI coil replacement

[lak1965 51]

I just bought a 1998 522xi with a backfiring issue through the muffler at full speed, it also runs a bit rough. I cleaned the gas tank, replaced the fuel filter , carburetor and plugs but now need to try to replace the coils. I cant seem to figure out how to remove the rear shroud to get at the coils. Does anyone know a way to do it without removing the engine?

 

Thanks in Advance 

[19richie66 17,537]

Sounds like something other than the coils. Does it idle rough? There is a small pickup tube in the carb that has tiny o rings on both ends. It will suck air around this and run like crap. As far as the coils, You have to pull the engine. There are two small screws at the bottom that have to come out and two on the lower sides. I am getting ready to do it myself on the one I just got. However I will be trying to split the cover so when/ if I have to do it again, I will just be able to remove the top half. At least the plan I have in my head says I can 😂

Edited February 10, 2019 by 19richie66

[lak1965 51]

I did rebuild the old carb twice and clean it before I decided to buy a new one. If its not the coils then the only other thing I can think of is the valves. It runs a little rough but at full throttle it backfires and runs like crap unless I have the choke on a bit. It did the same thing with both carbs but seems a little better with the new one. The valves are hydraulic so I cant adjust them. My brother and I did check the spark with a plug light and it seemed OK on both sides but I'm just trying to eliminate possibilities at this point.

Edited February 10, 2019 by lak1965

[19richie66 17,537]

Could have a piece of carbon on a valve holding it open too but I would think it would do it all the time. Flywheel key could be sheared too and throwing off the timing just enough. Be interested to see what you find.

[wh500special 2,244]

6 hours ago, lak1965 said:

.... I cant seem to figure out how to remove the rear shroud to get at the coils. Does anyone know a way to do it without removing the engine?

 

 

You have no choice but to remove the engine.   

 

It’s less work than it looks and you need to do it anyway so you can clean the cooling fins on the engine since it’s probably never been done. 

 

When you have it out, take the opportunity to install the Kohler kit that lets you access the cooling fins w/o removing the blower housing next time.  It’s been mentioned in this forum before, so it should pop up in a search. 

 

Steve

Edited February 10, 2019 by wh500special

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

23 hours ago, wh500special said:

When you have it out, take the opportunity to install the Kohler kit that lets you access the cooling fins w/o removing the blower housing next time.  It’s been mentioned in this forum before, so it should pop up in a search.

 

If there is a kit to allow access to clean the cooling fins, I am interested in the details.  Pulling the engine to remove the shroud on a 5xi is a pain.  But that is what I need to do this spring on my 522xi.  Its running a bit hot.

[19richie66 17,537]

Page 19 of this catalog.👍

 

http://www.kohlerengines.com/engines/onlinecatalog/pdf/parts_catalog.pdf

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

32 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

Page 19 of this catalog.👍

 

http://www.kohlerengines.com/engines/onlinecatalog/pdf/parts_catalog.pdf

 

Fantastic!!!!!

 

I'll check that out.

 

Thanks.

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

3 minutes ago, Kurt-NEPA said:

 

Fantastic!!!!!

 

I'll check that out.

 

Thanks.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Kohler-25-755-20-S-Original-Equipment-Manufacturer/dp/B000P7PC1U

[lak1965 51]

Got the clean out panels ordered along with head gasket kits, might as well look at those heads while I'm at it. Would have been nice to have this thing running right, I have a 2 stage snow blower I bought for it for short money. 

Edited February 12, 2019 by lak1965

[19richie66 17,537]

The other thing I was thinking of is that these engines have the smart spark box on them above the left valve cover. Maybe it is wigged out and advancing or regarding the timing too much? Just a thought.

Edited February 13, 2019 by 19richie66

[lak1965 51]

It Appears that there are 2 different size coils in the beast. One of them, the small one, was not reading properly on the multimeter. It also has a melted coil wire someone taped over. 

 

 

One of the intake gaskets were torn and I think it was sucking air into one of the cylinders causing the backfiring .

 

My brother an I also figured we would remove the heads and decarbon and inspect while the engine is out.

 

 

Doesn't look too bad, some funky wiring problems that need tube fixed but a good going through and cleaning and I think will be like new.

 

Access Panels

More pics to come.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 17, 2019 by lak1965

[19richie66 17,537]

Now I have to find the time to do mine.

[lak1965 51]

The problem found!

 

 

Access panels going on.

 

Intake back on with intact gaskets also both heads decarboned and torqued to 30 foot pounds.

 

 

Just about ready tout back in , tomorrows job.

 

[lak1965 51]

Works like a champ now. Suspect that intake gasket and possibly head not torqued correctly causing problems. Here are some pics and videos for your viewing pleasure.

 

Had Brian Miller come down to help get the engine back in.

 

Balancing engine on rail while hooking wires back on.

 

I put the muffler heat shield on backwards but it really didn't hurt anything. Also painted muffler with high temp paint.

 

 

Mounting back to frame.

 

Its alive, no backfiring.

 

 

We disconnected the steering mechanism that slows you down when you turn nut had to hook it back up. Couldn't get it go right without it. Thats me on the beast.

 

 

 

Thats it, now just need to find a front lens and bumper cover and I'm golden. Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions.

 

Edited February 22, 2019 by lak1965