BrianChrencik 1 #1 Posted February 10, 2019 I have a 1970 raider 10 thats been repowered with a k321. I am about to purchase this tiller and want to make sure it will work on my tractor. I do have the snow plow brackets on my rear axle. And is 275$ a fair price? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,874 #2 Posted February 10, 2019 Sure looks like there is a lot of life left in it. The tines are worn some but usable. A slight leak on the output shaft seal, but mine will leak some when stored with the gear case in a vertical position. I always check the oil before I use it each time. As far as price, around here that would be okay, availability makes those numbers, they don't seem to be in good supply. I did get one for my friend two years ago at the show for $250. It was in great shape, just lucky. The earliest machine I mounted a tiller on was 1974, I am not positive about the Raider, I am sure there are some Raider guys that can answer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,080 #3 Posted February 10, 2019 Welcome to the forum. Any model and serial number on the tiller? This is the one sold in 1970. Click on the picture. I don't think the actual tiller changed but the belt drive/idler and lift hardware may have changed over the years. It should be adaptable. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,788 #4 Posted February 10, 2019 The belt looks to be in good shape...that is important I think Toro wants $65 for a replacement. The 275 price is not unreasonable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianChrencik 1 #5 Posted February 10, 2019 The tag has it as a 07-36 tl01 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,080 #7 Posted February 10, 2019 1 hour ago, BrianChrencik said: The tag has it as a 07-36 tl01 Here you go so you can compare. Click on the picture Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeremi3210 735 #8 Posted February 10, 2019 I had the same tiller on a 1257 for awhile, the mule drive worked with the old style mid attach. Right now I have it on my 953. I had to fabricate a bracket for the mile drive but everything else was bolt on. My 953 has been upgraded to a 8 pinion hi low rear end. Best of both worlds! Hydraulic lift and a very low gear!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,337 #9 Posted February 10, 2019 to as far as condition that is not a bad price ! In my area that is a great price because they don't come up that often! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianChrencik 1 #10 Posted February 11, 2019 Thanks for all the info guys! I'm hopeing to pick it up soon, before the season gets here and the prices go up. I was randomly given the job of a group admin on Facebook for wheel horses. I am reallt new to them, but love how they can actually do work, my brand new husqvarna (1600$) can only cut grass....lol I have a 1970 raider 10(k321 report), a 212-5, and a 312-6. The 312 is all primers reasy for paint, but the k241 thats on it is either burning oil, or running extremely rich. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daddy Don 905 #11 Posted February 11, 2019 Great price Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Turner 42 #12 Posted October 30, 2020 (edited) On 2/10/2019 at 4:14 PM, jeremi3210 said: I had the same tiller on a 1257 for awhile, the mule drive worked with the old style mid attach. Right now I have it on my 953. I had to fabricate a bracket for the mile drive but everything else was bolt on. My 953 has been upgraded to a 8 pinion hi low rear end. Best of both worlds! Hydraulic lift and a very low gear!!! Please tell me how you did this so I can do it to my 1054. I need to work on the transmission anyway as the shifter has a lot of play in it. Edited October 30, 2020 by Jim Turner Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,807 #13 Posted October 30, 2020 (edited) 22 hours ago, Jim Turner said: I need to work on the transmission anyway as the shifter has a lot of play in it. You may just need to adjust the dog point set screw that holds the shifter in position. It’s under the rubber boot on the shifter shaft. Edited October 30, 2020 by oliver2-44 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeremi3210 735 #14 Posted October 30, 2020 2 hours ago, Jim Turner said: Please tell me how you did this so I can do it to my 1054. I need to work on the transmission anyway as the shifter has a lot of play in it. The first thing I did was put a hi low trans in it. I took half with the hi low and the original half and put them together so I have a 8 speed. I used the original belt and most of the mule drive and made a bracket to mount to the frame. A little welding and fitting it was actually pretty easy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Turner 42 #15 Posted October 30, 2020 16 minutes ago, jeremi3210 said: The first thing I did was put a hi low trans in it. I took half with the hi low and the original half and put them together so I have a 8 speed. I used the original belt and most of the mule drive and made a bracket to mount to the frame. A little welding and fitting it was actually pretty easy. I thought perhaps you just changed some gears inside the original transmission. I can't picture in my head at all what you described any pictures? I was hoping to do some gear swapping in the original but have never had the wheel horse transmissions apart. I wonder if it would just be easier to replace the transmission out of an 8 speed and drill holes for the new transmission and swap the rear hubs. But I have no idea if that would work properly or not either. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Turner 42 #16 Posted October 30, 2020 2 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: You m as y just need to adjust the dog point set screw that holds the shifter in position. It’s under the rubber boot on the shifter shaft. Thank you for that tip I have not got a good look at it yet sounds like an easy fix. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,080 #17 Posted October 30, 2020 4 hours ago, Jim Turner said: Thank you for that tip I have not got a good look at it yet sounds like an easy fix. If you place the transmission in neutral you can remove the shifter and replace it without an issue. Pull it out and make sure the donut is still secured to the shifter. Some are welded but some are secured by a roll pin that shares the same hole as used by the dog-point set screw at the front. That pin can shear resulting in a sloppy shift because the shifter can now rotate inside the donut. 933168 roll pin for the shifter donut 5/32" x 13/16" Replaced by 32121-114 spirol pin Install the pin from the rear of the shifter. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Turner 42 #18 Posted October 30, 2020 4 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: If you place the transmission in neutral you can remove the shifter and replace it without an issue. Pull it out and make sure the donut is still secured to the shifter. Some are welded but some are secured by a roll pin that shares the same hole as used by the dog-point set screw at the front. That pin can shear resulting in a sloppy shift because the shifter can now rotate inside the donut. 933168 roll pin for the shifter donut 5/32" x 13/16" Replaced by 32121-114 spirol pin Install the pin from the rear of the shifter. Garry I saved those part numbers Thanks again Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
