Grader with hydraulic lift

[Stepney 2,325]

Hello, all. Sorry for the shoddy photo. Picked up a '68 Charger 9 today. It came with an axle-mount 50" grader, amongst other things. I have been reading, that some people don't care for a hydro lift when using their graders. As I understand it, the manual lift just 'floats' if the grader moves. I know the original lift link was solid metal. My question is, since the manual lift doesn't put down any actual pressure and just rides with the ground.. what's to say I couldn't just use a section of chain to imitate the 'float' of the manual lift? 

[ebinmaine 67,279]

It's possible you may want to use both types of connections depending on what you are doing with the grader.

There are situations where you may want to have more downforce than at other times.

[JAinVA 4,619]

I have used a mid mount with both lift systems,hydro and manual.The use of a chain,instead of a solid link will more closely replicate the manual setup although with a manual solid link downforce can be applied with the left foot on the lift lever.It really depends on what you intend to do with the grader.

Edited February 10, 2019 by JAinVA

[953 nut 55,083]

In my opinion the chain is the best way to go. I have had both the axle mounted and mid mounted grader blade. With the rear mount it will tend to dig into the gravel as you push rather than smoothing it out, the solid link with down pressure will aggravate this situation.

[c-series don 8,666]

I think it really depends on what type of material you’re grading. If it’s compacted you will need down pressure or else the blade will just skip along. If it’s loose material the chain will be fine. One thing is for sure, this is a great application for wheel weights front and back. Tire chains too. I have the axel mount 50” on a GT-1800 with solid lift bar to grade the dirt/crushed concrete road I live on. Mostly I go out and mess around after it has rained a little bit because that helps loosen the material and it compacts better. When I want to get it done faster (shh and better!!) I use my Ford 545-C with a box blade. I’ve run road graders at work for years and still find the grader blade one of my favorite attachments. 

[Sarge 3,463]

There is the option of slotting the hole on the solid lift link - this will allow it to somewhat float and serve to also allow some down pressure. It doesn't take much of a slot - just 3/8"-1/2" or so. Any longer - you'll lose the ability to have down pressure. I used a slotted lift link on the mid-mount 40" blade on the old 1277 - with that setup I could let it float when necessary but also force it to cut when needed.

 

Sarge

[oliver2-44 9,691]

14 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

It's possible you may want to use both types of connections depending on what you are doing with the grader.

There are situations where you may want to have more downforce than at other times.

 

I've used my 42" grader on a 312-8 with manual lift and my C-160 with hydro lift. Both with a solid link.  Both worked great and both took a little practice to achieve the desired results.  With the hydro lift if your trying to cut some material down, its a little easier to stall/spin out the tractor...that where the practice of listening to the engine and giving the hydro little tweak raise/lowers to work the material.  with the manual lift it's really the same, hand on the manual lift arm constantly giving it a little down pressure or letting up .

My solid link has a slot that allows about 1" of float.  With this link its easy to get float and down pressure.  I've actually done a fair amount of grading/cutting soil down to level areas without chains or wheel weights.  I now have weights and chains and the C-160 will really do some work.  As mentioned above some soil moisture really helps to cut material and pack it.  it is certainly a fun attachment to use and get seat time.