Best way to protect the patina?

[WHGuy413 2,766]

Hey everyone. I have a all original rj58 and what I believe to be a original 701. I would love to protect the patina on them. I see some guys use oil. Some use clear coat. Ive never done either and am curious to learn about the different ways there are to preserve these tractors and how to do them successfully before I make any decisions. 

[AMC RULES 37,141]

Mothers mag and aluminum polish first, then a generous coat of Johnsons paste wax, buffed out to your liking will keep that thing glowing. 

[Chris G 3,296]

It really comes down to your prefrence. I've always done the wet sand and clear coat or a good scrub down and clear coat. But have seen others use oil and different waxs and all looked great. I like the clear coat method mainly for the sake of storing themand use. Cause the dust and dirt doesnt stick to them. The oil method tends to gather the dust and dirt. I can't really speak of how the wax method holds up during storing or use. But either way we want pictures before and after please.

Edited January 27, 2019 by Chris G

[Lee1977 6,868]

I was helping my cousin clean up used cars for his lot back in the early 60. We used regular car cleaner and wax with water to clean dull faded finish. I don't remember the brand. Use a wet towel with the cleaner and wax and keep the build up washed out with a bucket of water. A lot has changed in car wax since then don't know if it will work with the new wax. That is the same time I was first around a Wheel Horse. The only thing I remember about the Wheel Horse was it had either a K-90 or a K-91. I didn't buy my first Wheel Horse until 1977 but I didn't go look at anything else.

[953 nut 56,165]

Personal preference, I do not like the shin that a clear coat will produce on patina. I have used WD-40, steel wool and some 400 Wet/Dry paper to restore some of the color without making it shiny.

 

[oliver2-44 9,929]

That a great looking original RJ.

 

It really come down to personal preferance.  I like the rustprotection a wet sand and clear coat gives.  But I've been on the fence about using gloss clear coat.  i recently did some implement parts with a Satin clear and really liked it.

Also, not all rattle can clears are gas (especially ethanol) proof.  I plan to test several brands soon.  So for now, if you plan to use rattle can, an automotive clear from Duplicolor or VHT is a good choice. They both sell a gloss, satin and flat clear. 

 

2 hours ago, Chris G said:

It really comes down to your prefrence. I've always done the wet sand and clear coat or a good scrub down and clear coat. . I like the clear coat method mainly for the sake of storing themnd use. Cause the dust and dirt doesnt stick to them. The oil method tends to gather the dust and dirt. 

 

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

Personal preference, I do not like the shin that a clear coat will produce on patina. 

 

 

 

Edited January 28, 2019 by oliver2-44

[cschannuth 3,817]

I used 000 steel wool and windex and then I gave it a couple coats of satin clear. To me it’s the best way to replicate the original patina. Plus, it’s easy to touch up anytime you need to.   Mine’s a couple years old and it looks just like the day I did it and it gets heavy use. 

Edited January 28, 2019 by cschannuth

[WHNJ701 4,165]

I am sold on the Johnsons paste wax, I just washed/degreased, used a red scotch pad, then rubbed the wax in.  

I get more attention to that tractor than the other ones I repainted

[oliver2-44 9,929]

By the way, your front rims and tires look original.  If they are filled with calcium chloride  (original factory weight) you way want to get it out of there before it eats holes in the rims.

[WHGuy413 2,766]

22 hours ago, cschannuth said:

I used 000 steel wool and windex and then I gave it a couple coats of satin clear. To me it’s the best way to replicate the original patina. Plus, it’s easy to touch up anytime you need to.   Mine’s a couple years old and it looks just like the day I did it and it gets heavy use. 

I've always been nervous to use something like steel wool or fine grit sand paper. I'd be so mad at myself if it scratched them bad.

[953 nut 56,165]

When high quality paint jobs are done the coats of paint are wet-sanded with 400 or 600 wet/dry paper prior to the next coat to smooth out any imperfections. The only way you can scratch the surface while doing this is if some foreign material gets in between the sand paper and the surface being sanded.

[cschannuth 3,817]

1 hour ago, WHGuy413 said:

I've always been nervous to use something like steel wool or fine grit sand paper. I'd be so mad at myself if it scratched them bad.

 

It's so fine that all it really does is deep clean.  My sheet metal was in great shape but the paint was dull.  This brightened it up a bit without making it too shiny and preserving the patina.  I would never do this on a nice, shiny paint job. Here are some pics right after I used the steel wool and applied the matte clear and some new decals. 

 

Edited January 29, 2019 by cschannuth
Add pics

[WHNJ701 4,165]

2 minutes ago, cschannuth said:

 

It's so fine that all it really does is deep clean.  My sheet metal was in great shape but the paint was dull.  This brightened it up a bit without making it too shiny and preserving the patina.  I would never do this on a nice, shiny paint job.

3m scotch pads

Edited January 29, 2019 by jabelman

[Chris G 3,296]

It really is gonna depend a lot on condition of paint at the start. I use the wetsand method if there is surface rust present and the paint is very faded. But If the paint is predominantly there and just faded, I would use the 3m scotch pads and then apply my clear. The first two pics are a before and after, using a wet sand and a gloss clear coat. The last two pics I used 3m scotch pads and then a semi gloss clear coat. Hope this helps.

[dells68 7,498]

I like the clear method because of the reduced maintenance.  You don’t have to keep it up like you would with oil or wax.  One thing though.  If you clear a machine with heavy rusting in some areas, there always seem to be a few high pin points in the surface that don’t get hurried well enough below the clear and will start to rust a little if left exposed to rain for very long of a period.