Will I have a Hydro sized mess on my hands?

[Pullstart 63,096]

I just realized that I will need to remove the rear hydro line on Frank to do final assembly some day.  Due to the seat adapter I made, the 1-1/2” bolt won’t clear the fitting until it’s tight.  Now, this line is well above the fluid level, but I assume the pump holds fluid too?  How much Tran fluid should I expect to loose when I pull the hose?  Drops, or a significant amount?

 

 

[pfrederi 17,885]

enough to make a bit of a mess 2-3 tablespoons...  hold your finger over the hose end that will help

Edited January 13, 2019 by pfrederi

[Pullstart 63,096]

So it’ll drain the hose, more than the pump...  not a huge worry.  Thanks!

[pfrederi 17,885]

Work Fast!!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,096]

How are you going to remove the hose? Is it a magic push-on connection?

 

Garry

[pfrederi 17,885]

Open end wrench working down from the top in front of the tool box  1/12th of a turn at a time....

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,096]

4 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Open end wrench working down from the top in front of the tool box  1/12th of a turn at a time....

That should work for the first quarter of a turn and then what?

 

Garry

[Pullstart 63,096]

13 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

How are you going to remove the hose? Is it a magic push-on connection?

 

Garry

 

4 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Open end wrench working down from the top in front of the tool box  1/12th of a turn at a time....

 

 

I should be be able to get to it from inside my new tool box, with the seat removed fairly easy.

 

 

[953 nut 55,812]

47 minutes ago, pullstart said:

So it’ll drain the hose, more than the pump...  not a huge worry.  Thanks!

Knowing there will be a little leakage you can just fill the area with rags prior to breaking the fitting loose.    

Could you use a stud and nut in place of the 1 1/2" bolt to overcome the interference?

 

Edited January 13, 2019 by 953 nut

[Pullstart 63,096]

2 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Knowing there will be a little leakage you can just fill the area with rags prior to breaking the fitting loose.    

Could you use a stud and nut in place of the 1 1/2" bolt to overcome the interference?

 

 

I still need to get the spacer bolted in, and I’ve a feeling the thickness of it is causing my hiccup.  A stud is a great Idea, but I’m not sure if it’ll help me.  I do however plan to change the fluid before my build is finished up.  I might drain the system first, then do the assembly, then fill it up.

[953 nut 55,812]

4 minutes ago, pullstart said:

 I might drain the system first, then do the assembly, then fill it up.

You'll need a bunch of rags there too, thy burp a lot while filling.

[roadapples 6,983]

When you disassemble to paint, I would notch that hole into a slot so you only need to loosen the bolt slightly instead of removing. And maybe use a larger washer....

Edited January 13, 2019 by roadapples
Speeling

[Tractorhead 9,065]

6 hours ago, 953 nut said:

You'll need a bunch of rags there too, thy burp a lot while filling.

 

If you work with right funnel and filled carefully i doubt that it burbs that much.

 

 

Another issue may be a separate breater pipe (smaller than intake)

or a sideway screw, where the filling can be checked.

screw out fill slowly in if it drains on screwhole, bolt it up and youre fine.

 

the easiest way as i found.

[Pullstart 63,096]

6 hours ago, roadapples said:

When you disassemble to paint, I would notch that hole into a slot so you only need to loosen the bolt slightly instead of removing. And maybe use a larger washer....

 

That’s a great idea!  After all, these holes used to hold down sheet metal and now a 3/4” thick block has been machined to take the sheet metal’s place.  I could probably plug the hole and silicone a bolt head in place for all it matters, but a slotted hole might work out!