Storm Responder by Briggs & Stratton

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

I picked up this Generator at 60% off. Smashed Air Cleaner Assembly. Crushed Heat Shields. Oil soaked paperwork. First inspection it appeared the quart of oil must have been crushed as the unit had only half the amount needed, usually for shipping purposes. The muffler didn't have any oil on or around it to have leaked out if the unit was flipped onto it's side? (not even sure if oil can leak out that way on this engine design?) I managed to re-shape the metal parts, however the plastic cleaner cover is shattered along the left flange, so will try to contact Briggs again on that might get lucky? They did make an exception on the manual, which is rare, extremely rare to have a true hard copy, not a PDF, wait and see if truly does get here. I cleaned the original with Dawn.

Started right up even looks fine considering. I did paint the re-formed parts and used heat resistant on the heat shield. All in all a good find at 444.69 for 8500/6250 30@ unit.

I am still wiping excess oil off the manual pages, but it's functional. I left the PDF's in anyone needs them.

 

Oldman

 

 

 

 

gfqntEXAnfBhU7y.PDF

ngjoALQ8p8ZVj5K1w.PDF

gfqntFXAnfBhU7y.PDF

030592-01.pdf

Edited December 31, 2018 by oldman
grammer

[peter lena 8,580]

good pick up on that , they are a very good unit, I have the 8/10 k model , to run my house on a jen/tran switch.  mine came with two quarts of oil in the box , probably the damage to the box crushed the oil bottle creating the mess. any help from Briggs is marginal , which will direct you to a local dealer , kind of like chasing your tail. I use 5-30 synthetic oil for any weather protection. once you verify its starting / running , enjoy it . pete

[Pullstart 62,785]

I bet you could find an aftermarket cone filter and adapter on eBay... for a go kart.

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,300]

That’s a good deal! 

  I shelled out 9 bills for this one about 7 years ago...been a good unit. Replaced the

battery once and like Pete I also run 5-30 oil.

[Sarge 3,463]

I just picked up a 10,000 watt Generac this fall for $500 - it's an older unit with the Subaru/Robin 18hp engine but lacks the idle option. Runs excellent now that the carb is cleaned and fuel system flushed, has a total of less than 5hrs on it. Now, just need to buy an assortment of those special twist-lock plugs and set up some really heavy duty drop cords for it. This one is a true 10k unit with a surge rated at over 12k, so it should easily handle running my Miller Dynasty that draws 38amps wide open on stick/tig processes, plus running tools for portable jobs. Only drawback is the thing weighs about as much as a short frame WH..lol.

 

Sarge

[peter lena 8,580]

added two wheels to my lower front frame , handle end. used  korn / conduit right angle clamps to secure a 3/4" threaded steel axel, clamps are like this  https://www.galco.com/buy/Crouse-Hinds/RAC50HD?source=googleshopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIieu54f3K3wIVAyaGCh1vQQ9tEAQYAiABEgIa8vD_BwE clamped them just inside and below vertical bend , and secured axel and wheels from h/f . remove the stand pad , and you can move your generator easily , add anything else you want to make things easier . I also found  a used " fiberglass calf hutch " that  totally protects the generator  in bad weather , put 2" pvc  piping  under it to make it slide around easier .  there are no rules, pete 

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

Excellent idea's! All these great post's! I am really glad I went back and grabbed this last one up! Sarge, I also am going to make up some of those 4L's on my own cable's from an electric supplier, then measure home run  from an exterior water tight  L1430CZ type outlet, from there to a 60 @mp double-pull inside my sub-feed. The main is a long vertical switch so the lock out's will go in the sub-feed instead. I also have the old orange 8 hp brigg's put's out steady 4000-30@mp but uses the three prong grounded double horizontal plug, great for the garage circuit-(stand alone). I  am going to get a Bell box and install a weather proof 4L outlet on the exterior wall. Then I am going to make a cable just long enough to reach it with slack from the gene house. The calf shelter sounds perfect!

 

Oldman

Edited January 3, 2019 by oldman
technical

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

4 hours ago, peter lena said:

added two wheels to my lower front frame , handle end. used  korn / conduit right angle clamps to secure a 3/4" threaded steel axel, clamps are like this  https://www.galco.com/buy/Crouse-Hinds/RAC50HD?source=googleshopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIieu54f3K3wIVAyaGCh1vQQ9tEAQYAiABEgIa8vD_BwE clamped them just inside and below vertical bend , and secured axel and wheels from h/f . remove the stand pad , and you can move your generator easily , add anything else you want to make things easier . I also found  a used " fiberglass calf hutch " that  totally protects the generator  in bad weather , put 2" pvc  piping  under it to make it slide around easier .  there are no rules, pete 

Say the wheels are fixed then?

[peter lena 8,580]

yes the wheels are fixed, the swivel option would have been too small for my use, uneven surface. getting pictures , pete

[peter lena 8,580]

[peter lena 8,580]

local farmer had this damaged calf hutch , rounded rear section was hit by tractor, so I cut that off, and added the vinyl fencing ,to cover that up , that end is the air intake side. the front entry side became the generator exhaust side , when running you can feel the air draw at fencing , exhaust and airflow goes out entry side. the pvc piping skids make for easy movement on lawn , with generator plugged into gen Tran switch , just slide it over for weather proof running. you can see how the conduit clamps mount to and secure the axel set up on the generator , along with the battery tender ,easy plug in . I usually get on a roll when I am " creating  " something  and always add a  " why not ? "  to it.  as proven ,last power outage , heavy rain and wind , generator was ,dry and happy. this worked out for me , pete

[Sarge 3,463]

That's a good idea - generators sitting out in the weather without a ground bond can create havoc on the items they are powering, not to mention it isn't very good on the unit itself to be out in the weather. If needed, I can run mine in the shed and use the heavy cords I have to power the furnace and refrigerator to keep us warm and not spoil food during an outage. Otherwise, mine is meant for work duty to power tools and the welder for occasional remote jobs.

 

Sarge

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

I was thinking about the ground bond, driving a grounding rod next to the generator and utilizing it? 

[Sarge 3,463]

It isn't a bad idea to stage a ground stake somewhere near the area a generator would be utilized. Just make sure it's a proper length rod - most areas require an 8' minimum. One note - I've seen an issue when a home wasn't properly bonded to the Earth - the ground clamp had been broken off and it caused the generator to induce some pretty wild noises in their home radio when it was running, might want to check yours. 

The ground bond is mostly about protecting you from shock, and keeping feedback to the generator, I believe. Perhaps one of our resident Electricians can shed some light on it? Not my particular expertise, I can do wiring work but when it comes to the finer details I'm not qualified - have 2 buddies that work in that field, lol. 

@Sparky ?

 

Sarge

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,300]

My gen is only to power my house, its not used to power up tools on a construction site.

  In my case if I lose power at my house its the overhead lines and I lose the two hots and the neutral not the ground. My ground wire from my breaker panel to ground rod is never impacted. So I don't run a separate ground from my gen to a ground rod or something along those lines. Oddly enough I was weed-whacking near my ground rod a couple years ago and for the heck of it I checked the acorn nut and it was nice and tight.

 

 

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

I found a compatible interlock fabricated by US Interlock, however, it sells for 149.00! I found another for a GE-3 Long sold through National Ram Electronics, for 69.00! The distance from the vertical main to the top of the Bryant column is 3-1/4, so the GE-3 will reach up to 3-1/2, this should work fine. I can't see spending twice as much probably for the same kit, with a 4-week lead time on top of that!

 

Oldman

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,300]

Glad to see your hooking it to your house the correct safe and legal way. 

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

The transfer switch is on route, meantime the Briggs Parts showed up, nice to see warranties honored. Should be  able to remove and transfer the decal!

 

Oldman

Edited January 5, 2019 by oldman
grammar

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

To anyone interested, here is the GE-3 Long Generator Interlock Kit

National Ram Electronics (69.00)

This is a nicely made kit right here in the good ol' USA I'm proud to say!

 

(should be installed by a qualified electrician/electronics technician).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 10, 2019 by oldman
text

[Sparky-(Admin) 21,300]

I understand the interlock concept but yours seems screwy. If your main is off(down) it seems like it will drop the bracket down and prevent that top left double pole breaker from being turned on? Or am I not seeing something?? 

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

No it goes left to right, not up and down. I'll take a picture once it's installed, it's in the generator off position in the picture.

(It's a Bryant Panel but the vertical main is positioned the same as the GE.)

when the main is down the interlock can move to the right and so does the top left double pull, vice/versa.

 

Oldman

 

 

Edited January 10, 2019 by oldman
technical