Jump to content
LengerichKA88

A couple K181 questions.

Recommended Posts

LengerichKA88

@clueless, I ordered the gasket today, and it’s not even gunna ship until next year!! I couldn’t believe it! So, it’ll be a year before I get to it 😂

I’ve got a couple leads on a full set of engine tins, so that’ll be sorted soon too hopefully. Then we can get em on and doing their job. 

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
moe1965

Before installing your head gasket run a tap down all the holes to get all the **** and crud out of them and might give you a false reading on your torque

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oldredrider

Adding, after chasing the threads, blow out the holes with compressed air. Use Never Seize on the head bolt threads.

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

Thanks gents, I will keep all of that in mind 👍🏻

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tuneup

You've come to the right place. If you're 'handy', there is enough information and expertise to get it done on these tractors on this list. I've repaired and rebuilt an 8-speed tranny with this list's help. Great gang. Had your same problem on a 12HP. No top tin. eBay was my friend for that one. Who knows how many hours were spent running it hot! That got me into the engine which is a more familiar area and a nice $120 rebuild. Life is good with Wheel Horsies. Enjoy it - and double check the beer tabs in the fridge.

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

Head gasket came in yesterday, so hopefully some time in the coming week I’ll be able to tackle it. I’ve got the top engine Tin coming in the mail from some mountain man in Maine 😂:ychain:, the front piece that I was “missing” was hiding in the tool box. 

Ive got a long list of things to get to, so I hope it doesn’t get shuffled too far down the list. 

If anyone would like to lend a hand with rotors, pads, and drums on a HHR, then dive into working in the Horse that’d be great!😂

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

Well, a little behind schedule, but I finally got the head off. This is what I found: 

48145BF9-9DE8-41C1-922E-6CBE9120D049.jpeg

F438A174-E211-442A-A096-29F27D29D6BF.jpeg

926F8BBA-5CED-4D21-AE2D-EFC900666F25.jpeg

CFB1EC5E-A4D5-48FE-BF25-0F191BB5C234.jpeg

2CAF1242-990A-4D9D-B44F-36B4433868C0.jpeg

 

It appears I may have more on my hands than just a head gasket, so before slapping the new one on and calling it a day, I figured I’d post and ask: Where should I look next? 

Edited by LengerichKA88

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

Also, if I remember correctly @ebinmaine mentioned that this engine looked like it was built for something else originally, since it has a mix of studs and bolts. 

 

Has anyone ever ever run into an engine like this, and if so: Did you delete the studs for bolts? 

I would like to throw all new bolts on it, but I know I can’t just got to the bins at TSC and grab any ole one. What are your recommendations? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

Some additional pictures 

CF0B2DC3-ED16-4A20-BB49-839ABDFA3CBA.jpeg

CF9CB060-9721-4A8B-AFA7-6979ACE2FEBE.jpeg

24FF1FFA-6173-4FCC-AAB0-CB4C164E366B.jpeg

25BCEE92-E942-4B59-836C-A974B147EC3B.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

I think I had 3 or 4 studs in both of my K-181-S.  You need a few to be able to torque the head and then to nut down the tins for the air cooled part.  I would not worry about the studs...just torque the nuts on the studs. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

How was it running?

Good power?

Smooth?

Using oil?

 

I've seen worse looking engines clean up and run well.

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88
3 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

I think I had 3 or 4 studs in both of my K-181-S.  You need a few to be able to torque the head and then to nut down the tins for the air cooled part.  I would not worry about the studs...just torque the nuts on the studs. 

 

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

How was it running?

Good power?

Smooth?

Using oil?

 

I've seen worse looking engines clean up and run well.

 

 

 This is the first time I’ve ever done this, so at first I thought this was indicative of a bigger problem. 

 

As far as the studs/bolts go, I’m going to have to punch some holes in the tin I got from @ebinmaine, but that shouldn’t be a problem. I was hoping to do away with the studs for uniformity sake, but I’ll leave em Be. 

Other than percolating the oil out of the top, it’s presented no other issues. Doesn’t run rough, usually fires right up on the first turn. I think I’ll get her cleaned up, new gasket, oil change, and call it good. 

 

Ive been using WD40 foaming degreaser and a hard plastic scrapper. Soak, scrap, repeat.  It’s cleaned up quite a bit. 

CAA2CE84-E0B9-4B84-83A6-A02C134537C2.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oliver2-44

Remember to sand the old aluminum head flat as described in an earlier post by Stevasaurus.  Since it looks like that gasket was leaking a while I suggest you check the top of the engine.  After you sand the head flat, reinstall it without the gasket and lightly snug all the head bolts and nuts up.  Take a set of feeler gages and see if you can get any between the head and top of the block.  I'll let the pros chime in as to whats too much gap for this type check.  I suspect 0.003 (with out a head gasket) is definitely good, maybe even a little more.  Looking at your picture the top of the engine surface where the head gasket sets looks to still have some carbon on it.. This surface should be clean metal.  You might try some carburetor cleaner to see if it will help dissolve that carbon ( almost any brand will work except the environmentally friendly junk from Home Depot))

If you happen to have the carburetor pulled off, now would be a great time to check and adjust the valve clearance.  Good folks on hear can walk you through it.  If not, it can be done latter without pulling the head. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

@oliver2-44, I plan on sanding the head down, I just need to find/go get a suitable piece of glass. 

 

The carbs not off, but it can be. We might just go ahead and knock that out too

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

I also just realized: I forgot to mention that the original gasket was still in place in the 1st photo of the original post, here’s how she sits now. Still some gasket material, but I’m going low and slow with this, as space is limited and I’m in no rush to work it. 

4E53B64F-4365-4BA7-8FBD-329754795D74.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • Gravely Horse
      By Gravely Horse
      I’ve got a 520xi with a ch20 kohler. It has 982 hours. It runs fine, but after seeing this valve train kit on eBay, I was wondering if there is any harm or need to throw one in it. Any one have insight into this? 

    • bigbuck
      By bigbuck
      I had a fire in 2019 which destroyed my pole barns and some wheel horse tractors and parts. i'm looking for someone who can use the engine that went thru the fire. It is not pristine but there must be some usable parts
      please call George at 517-499-5678 for more info.
    • CasualObserver
      By CasualObserver
      Owners manual for the two cylinder snowmobile engines.
      12 pages 1.38MB
       
      1970 399 Safari snowmobile model 9-0041 - 2-cylinder
      1970 440 Safari snowmobile model 9-0051 - 2-cylinder
       
      1972 399 15" Safari snowmobile model 9-0042 - 2-cylinder
      1972 399W 22" Safari snowmobile model 9-0310 - 2-cylinder
    • CasualObserver
      By CasualObserver
      Owners manual for the Single cylinder snowmobile engines.
      12 pages 1.33MB
       
      1970 295 Safari snowmobile model 9-0011 - 1-cylinder
      1970 309 Safari snowmobile model 9-0021 - 1-cylinder
      1970 309W Safari snowmobile model 9-0061 - 1-cylinder
      1970 355 Safari snowmobile model 9-0031 - 1-cylinder
       
      1972 335 15" Safari snowmobile model 9-0032 - 1-cylinder
    • Jeff-C175
×
×
  • Create New...