Chris G 3,296 #26 Posted December 24, 2018 Well it's not that exciting LOL A few are from tractors and a lot of them I have actually are old dash indicator lights from old semis / farm trucks we had over the years. It was routine at our house to strip anything that was still useful and could hold a purpose later down the road. If you didn't my grandad would let you know it. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,887 #27 Posted December 25, 2018 7 hours ago, Chris G said: Well it's not that exciting LOL A few are from tractors and a lot of them I have actually are old dash indicator lights from old semis / farm trucks we had over the years. It was routine at our house to strip anything that was still useful and could hold a purpose later down the road. If you didn't my grandad would let you know it. I guess it's okay that they did not come from a cyborg. I'd still be perfectly happy to put them to use. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,887 #28 Posted December 25, 2018 A little more drainage. I want to get the front higher but the chain Falls is in the outdoor workshop so this'll do. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,338 #29 Posted December 25, 2018 43 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: A little more drainage. I want to get the front higher but the chain Falls is in the outdoor workshop so this'll do. Is that jack osha approved? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,887 #30 Posted December 25, 2018 6 minutes ago, The Tool Crib said: Is that jack osha approved? Jack.... Probably. The rest of it.....?? . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,887 #31 Posted December 25, 2018 Found a shim to put between the cotter pin and lower steering block while installing a new block. Should help tighten up the steering just a little. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,181 #32 Posted December 25, 2018 On 12/24/2018 at 10:09 AM, Chris G said: I can send ya a complete one and a extra socket. The chrome has to be cleaned, but it's not pitted or anything like that. That is not the light for the generator light. There need to be two wires going to the lamp and it is not grounded. It is a Cole Hersee PL-20-RC. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,488 #33 Posted December 25, 2018 On 12/24/2018 at 2:00 PM, ebinmaine said: Yummy ! You going to flush that or just refill ? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,338 #34 Posted December 25, 2018 Diesel run flush. Diesel run flush. Diesel run flush Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,887 #35 Posted December 25, 2018 @953 nut Thanks.. I ordered that one. @Digger 66 and @The Tool Crib Due to the fact that it had water in it and the oil looks that way I'll likely run a couple quarts of diesel in it, drain, repeat. Fill with new oil. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,887 #36 Posted December 25, 2018 I gave a good effort. It tried to defeat me. I won. 3 1 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,296 #37 Posted December 25, 2018 2 hours ago, 953 nut said: That is not the light for the generator light Really? Cause my 1056 and the 1055 both have that style. One wire for power and the case grounds itself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,887 #38 Posted December 25, 2018 Two wire light is what came out of it Trina's tractor. 657. Did not have one but I don't think it should have, having a Tecumseh engine. My other 1967. 1267. That did not have one either. So I can't use either one of those two as a reference point. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G 3,296 #39 Posted December 25, 2018 @ebinmaine and @953 nut well thanks for sharing that info 953nut. I never realized they were a 2 wire light. But he is correct it got me thinking so I checked the manuals I got and it shows 2 wires. So thanks for sharing that. I though it was correct all this time cause my 1056 has got 1 wire and the 1055 I did had a 1 wire. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,887 #40 Posted December 26, 2018 I wire brushed and ground all the rust off of the dash plate. I didn't think to take a before close up of it but you can see in the first post if you zoom in that it was basically a piece of rust. This thing almost looks too good to coat over the way it is now. Maybe @Vinylguy Terry has some see-through decals? I really am about half inclined to just throw a coat of clear over this. 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,181 #41 Posted December 26, 2018 (edited) 26 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: am about half inclined to just throw a coat of clear over this. Been there, done that. Found out clear will not last very long on bare metal. Edited December 26, 2018 by 953 nut 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,141 #42 Posted December 26, 2018 Hence the reason...all of mine get the wax treatment. Going on four years now, this one's been down to the bare metal. 7 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,887 #43 Posted December 26, 2018 Well then... No worries. Back to plan B. Linen color. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,065 #44 Posted December 26, 2018 (edited) How about Plan C ? Maybe hard chrome plating will be an issue for the Surface... Edited December 26, 2018 by Tractorhead 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,578 #45 Posted December 26, 2018 When I redid my cooper weather vane, I took it back down to bare metal, and clear coated it with lacquer. Seem to have held up well all these years later. The cooper still hasn't oxidized again. Love the way the sun shines off the cooper. Maybe 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,887 #46 Posted December 26, 2018 10 hours ago, Tractorhead said: How about Plan C ? Maybe hard chrome plating will be an issue for the Surface... yeah. I don't think the plate would stick to that. Besides, I'm too cheap to send it out to get it plated. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,887 #47 Posted December 26, 2018 Got the hub off the other side just now. This one argued far less. This side had a wheel seal that was leaking much more. So less rust in the hub. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,464 #48 Posted December 27, 2018 Just so you know - unless that surface is as smooth as glass any imperfections will show through the vinyl replacement decal once it dries and pulls itself tight to the surface. I do recommend using a good quality automotive primer as a base, then use a skim of filler to get rid of the pits and such, then put your final background color over that. It is worth your time to block sand the surface between coats - the smoother the finish, the better that decal will look. I learned the hard way on my first dash project, amazing how that vinyl can show the smallest imperfection and actually amplify it to make it more noticeable. Sarge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,887 #49 Posted December 27, 2018 @Sarge Quite true. On Trina first tractor we had a heck of a time getting that one to sit correctly. I think for now we're just going to put it back together and paint it now but sticker it later.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bottjernat1 2,190 #50 Posted December 27, 2018 On 12/25/2018 at 4:08 PM, Digger 66 said: Yummy ! You going to flush that or just refill ? Yummy chocolate milk! I likes me some chocolate milk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites