520H Snow Cab mounting questions

[formariz 11,987]

I started mounting a snow cab on my 1996 520H. Downloaded both available manuals which are similar but have a few differences to each other. My cab is also a bit different in some areas. I am trying to mount it without drilling any new holes on foot rests but I don't know if that is possible. I am also not entirely sure where some of the dash braces attach. Not sure also if what is attached now is in correct spot.Could someone show me photos of one attached to a 520H specially at foot rest area on both sides. It will be much appreciated as always. Here is what I got attached so far and whats left to install;

 

 

 

 

 

[wallfish 16,985]

These mount to the uprights to hold the vinyl out away from the pedals. easier if someone posts a pic.

 

 

[formariz 11,987]

Just found another set of instructions . Looks like this what I actually have. It also has clearer photos on it and better dimensions.

Cab Snow 1988-1991 P6-47CC01 for 300 400 500-Series.pdf

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

Cass ,here's some of mine...as you can see I used existing holes in the foot rests and just trimmed the foot pads enough to get the up right in, Jeff.

[formariz 11,987]

Thanks Jeff. That is also unit that I have from the looks of it. Curious, can hood be opened with cab on?

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

46 minutes ago, formariz said:

Thanks Jeff. That is also unit that I have from the looks of it. Curious, can hood be opened with cab on?

Yes you can open the hood with the 2stage blower and cab but it just barely enough to check the oil, then when closing the hood you have to be careful about pinching the vinyl, also note that the vinyl under the windshield will eventually wear (dull) the paint on the hood (someone else on here puts a magnetic sign over the hood so the cab vinyl doesn't rub the paint).

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

@formariz, here's a couple with the hood open, the sway bar is what actually limits how for it opens unlike a single stage where chute hinders it, Jeff.

[formariz 11,987]

@WVHillbilly520H @wallfishThank you for the help and photos. Really helped to confirm I was on the right track. Much appreciated.

 

I got to take a closer look but I guess for any major work with the blower on one is better off altogether removing hood. Not great timing, should have done it prior to installing blower but I don't want to get caught without it but I am going to install a oil pressure gauge in it and that requires good access to engine compartment. I will be starting another thread on that.

[wallfish 16,985]

You're going to enjoy shooting snow this year!

Another thing to look at on the 2 stage is the chain tensioner block below the gearbox. They used a piece of hardwood ( at least on the older ones )but changing it to an idler sprocket seems to be much better for keeping it tight. Had the chain loosen up before and it "shark fin-ed" the teeth on the drive sprocket. That curve on the teeth caused breaking of the master link. Most #40 idler sprockets come with 17 teeth for the smallest one but I did find a smaller 10 tooth sprocket on epay, which will fit in there much easier. You'll see what I mean if or when you're in there.

 

Also check the mating surfaces on the PTO clutch. Best performance comes when both surfaces are flat and have as much contact with each other as possible. The slipping of the clutch isn't really noticed with other attachments like a deck, since you can't measure how far the grass flies but you can easily see the difference with a snow blower on how far it throws snow.

[formariz 11,987]

Thanks John. Good of you to mention tensioner. Did not know about it. Everything on this tractor is new to me.I will definitely be checking it today.

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

This is what I put together to replace the tensioner rub block.  Its been working well.  The extension is necessary for the sprocket to clear the frame.

 

 

Edited December 5, 2018 by Kurt-NEPA

[formariz 11,987]

On 12/5/2018 at 4:44 PM, Kurt-NEPA said:

This is what I put together to replace the tensioner rub block.  Its been working well.  The extension is necessary for the sprocket to clear the frame

  @Kurt-NEPA       Can you post a photo of it installed?Greatly appreciated.

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

34 minutes ago, formariz said:

  @Kurt-NEPA       Can you post a photo of it installed?Greatly appreciated.

 

Hard to get a good picture.  Does this help?  I used the existing bracket (red) and mounting/adjusting holes.  Note that you will need a longer chain.

Edited December 9, 2018 by Kurt-NEPA

[formariz 11,987]

Thank you. As for chain length that of course will depend on diameter of sprocket used. I assume then that one just has to have the normal chain "flex" recommended of 3/8" to 5/8".

[wallfish 16,985]

I just mounted mine directly to the red bracket's top hole and used the same chain but there IS a half link installed in the chain to tighten it up a little. There was too much slack without the half link.  It needs to be adjusted exactly in the right spot with a 17 tooth sprocket so it doesn't hit either of the other 2 sprockets and it's a pain. Look on epay for a small 10 tooth #40 idler sprocket and mount it in the top hole of the existing bracket and ride it on the outside of the chain loop. I have one but haven't changed the 17 tooth to the 10 yet.

I did have some trouble in the past with the small gearbox sprocket slipping the chain so wanted to keep more teeth engaged in the chain.

[formariz 11,987]

Successfully mounted cab. Not on these photos but added an extension to chute crank so it would be inside cab , and modified crank support so crank sits lower inside cab and my hand does not hit door while using it. Waiting for linear actuator so I can motorize deflector. Also found glass windshield kit so I may also be getting that.

Been thinking about not only the work to install and remove cab but mainly the hassle of storing it once removed. I am thinking of only removing vinyl and leaving frame with roof on tractor next spring. Was planning to get an umbrella so I would have shade while mowing so roof will provide that. Has anyone used it like that? Any negative facts to that that I am not realizing?

[lynnmor 7,302]

A few comments:

 

I wonder if your hood hinges are spent, that round rubber thing is the hood stop when open, not the sway bar.  See if the front of the hood can be moved up and down.

 

That cab is really not designed for the 520H, the high seat will hit the rear.  The doors should have pockets that push out to clear the rotating handle. 

 

I have never needed to adjust the deflector at the top of the chute, I can see a motorized adjuster only if you have a number of tight areas that demand precise control over where the snow is thrown. 

 

To store the cab I remove the vinyl and break down the frame into a few sections.  I hang the cab roof from the ceiling, upside down from chains, and place all the pieces in the roof separated with cardboard.  To make assembly and disassembly easy, I use a cordless drill with a 7/16" socket.

[formariz 11,987]

10 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I wonder if your hood hinges are spent, that round rubber thing is the hood stop when open, not the sway bar.  See if the front of the hood can be moved up and down.

 

Not understanding what rubber thing you are referring to. Hood front is solid will not move up and down. You may be referring to one of Jeff's photos?

13 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

That cab is really not designed for the 520H, the high seat will hit the rear.  The doors should have pockets that push out to clear the rotating handle.

Yes I am aware that it was not designed for the 520. Seat barely hits it though. I also keep it adjusted forward a bit once I am sitting so it works OK.No pockets but with the adjustment it works fine. Eventually it will be motorized anyway.

16 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I have never needed to adjust the deflector at the top of the chute, I can see a motorized adjuster only if you have a number of tight areas that demand precise control over where the snow is thrown

Yes, I have numerous tight areas and specific areas that snow has to be thrown to, so adjusting deflector is a must.

17 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

 

To store the cab I remove the vinyl and break down the frame into a few sections.  I hang the cab roof from the ceiling, upside down from chains, and place all the pieces in the roof separated with cardboard.  To make assembly and disassembly easy, I use a cordless drill with a 7/16" socket

That is pretty much how I had it prior to installing it, however I think that with just the roof on it may prove useful in Summer so I may just give it a shot.

[WVHillbilly520H 10,373]

20 hours ago, formariz said:

Successfully mounted cab. Not on these photos but added an extension to chute crank so it would be inside cab , and modified crank support so crank sits lower inside cab and my hand does not hit door while using it. Waiting for linear actuator so I can motorize deflector. Also found glass windshield kit so I may also be getting that.

Been thinking about not only the work to install and remove cab but mainly the hassle of storing it once removed. I am thinking of only removing vinyl and leaving frame with roof on tractor next spring. Was planning to get an umbrella so I would have shade while mowing so roof will provide that. Has anyone used it like that? Any negative facts to that that I am not realizing?

Cass, looks good, wish mine wasn't sun faded but it's still better tan wearing snow, I left the roof and frame on the first summer after I installed it, my lawn is way to bumpy and hilly so I kept hitting my noggin on the empty frame so it came off till I got myself a couple extra 520s so this one could stay a dedicated snow machine, then the eMax came along.

[Kurt-NEPA 755]

On 12/9/2018 at 4:43 PM, formariz said:

Thank you. As for chain length that of course will depend on diameter of sprocket used. I assume then that one just has to have the normal chain "flex" recommended of 3/8" to 5/8".

 

I just pulled the chain tight and let it relax a bit.  Then tightened it down.  I had about 3/8" slack on the longest run.

[ericj 1,578]

20 hours ago, formariz said:

Successfully mounted cab. Not on these photos but added an extension to chute crank so it would be inside cab , and modified crank support so crank sits lower inside cab and my hand does not hit door while using it. Waiting for linear actuator so I can motorize deflector. Also found glass windshield kit so I may also be getting that.

Been thinking about not only the work to install and remove cab but mainly the hassle of storing it once removed. I am thinking of only removing vinyl and leaving frame with roof on tractor next spring. Was planning to get an umbrella so I would have shade while mowing so roof will provide that. Has anyone used it like that? Any negative facts to that that I am not realizing?

If you leave the cab roof on WATCH out for low hanging tree branches. I mounted cab lights on top of cabs last year. Then when I was pulling out of the garage one time the rope I had looped around the door bottom for a hand lift, no opener yet installed, I lassoed the one light with the rope, what are the chances right, Well I proceeded to buckle the garage door and twisted the heck out of the cab. I pulled it all apart and tried to square it up, it's okay but not the same as it was before. So my warning for you is not to hit anything with the cab and twist it up. It might be easier to just remove it or even better, an excuse to buy another tractor 

 

 

 

eric j  

[Sarge 3,463]

Just fyi -

 

If your cab vinyl or any other vinyl is faded but still supple enough not to be cracked it can be re-dyed into a more even color or even change the color. Look into VHT interior dye in a spray can - the stuff works. I use the deep black on steering wheels after epoxy repairs, it does not come off, ever. Keep that in mind if you use the stuff, as it will dye your hands or anything else it comes in contact with. Not exactly cheap, but it's a brand that has been around forever and actually works if you just follow their directions on the can. There are also commercial interior dyes that can be had in quarts and gallons from auto body suppliers, but those types require a booth and a full suit to spray them - those are highly poisonous and the fumes can kill you, so be careful with any of this type of aerosol. I re-dyed an entire interior for an old Chrysler luxury car once, that was an adventure but it looked new when done.

 

Sarge

[formariz 11,987]

Is there also a product that can be used on vinyl to keep it soft preventing it from hardening.?Mine is still pretty soft and I would like to preserve it that way as long as possible.

[formariz 11,987]

16 hours ago, ericj said:

If you leave the cab roof on WATCH out for low hanging tree branches. I mounted cab lights on top of cabs last year. Then when I was pulling out of the garage one time the rope I had looped around the door bottom for a hand lift, no opener yet installed, I lassoed the one light with the rope, what are the chances right, Well I proceeded to buckle the garage door and twisted the heck out of the cab. I pulled it all apart and tried to square it up, it's okay but not the same as it was before. So my warning for you is not to hit anything with the cab and twist it up. It might be easier to just remove it or even better, an excuse to buy another tractor 

Good point about garage door. That is pretty much the danger point here. I don't have any low hanging stuff that I need to go under with it.