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Volant1006

Removing the Mule Drive

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Volant1006

So today I'm attempting to remove my deck for the 1st time to try and put on a snow blade I got with the tractor.  These are all firsts for me.  I was able to follow the instructions on the site to get the deck out, that was no problem.  I am however having an issue with the mule drive.  I'm assuming the mule drive needs to come off before I can install the front blade (is that correct)?  When I push in the attch-a-matic button on the front of the mule drive nothing happens.  It doesn't look like it's attached to anything, just a rod with a spring at the end.  Is there a trick to this?  Do I need to take out that giant nut/bolt to get the mule drive off.  Any help is greatly appreciated.  I already dropped that ball by not getting this done before our first snow storm.

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1995 520H+96+97

In your second picture, push the greenish(grayish) lever to the rear.

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Ed Kennell
26 minutes ago, 1995 520H+96+97 said:

In your second picture, push the greenish(grayish) lever to the rear.

As you hold in the rod you are pushing on.   And don't let the mule drop on your hand.

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cleat

Here is a pic of the front hitch.

Push in on the rod (black in this picture) then pull the handle hanging at the bottom forward.

 

Yours looks bent and should be straight like this one.

 

Being bent, it might be jammed and require more force to release.

 

They get bent by jacking up the tractor under the handle and forcing it up (never jack the tractor this way, go under the front axle instead being careful of the grease fitting).

 

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Volant1006

Is this the rod you mean?  I held the button & tried piushing, pulling, up, down...nothing budged?!?

 

 

9105646B-02EE-41B1-8536-ED1EA87C51D6.jpeg

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Ed Kennell

The flat bar extending down under the mule drive must be pulled forward.   As stated above, yours is bent and may have to be driven forward with a BFH to release the fingers that hold the mule in place.

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Volant1006

Awesome!  Thanks guys.  I held in the button then banged on that bottom tab with a mallet back to forward & she popped off right onto my Labatt catcher.  Next step plow attachment 

 

77A13C52-DB56-425A-800E-75EF9E8F53D7.jpeg

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Ed Kennell

Labatt......why not Schmidts?

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cleat

Canadian beer makes everything better.....(Canadian Whiskey even better).

 

 

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Ed Kennell

C'mon Cleat,  It's hard to beat home grown Pa corn squeezins.

 

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Volant1006

It’s was all I had on hand :).  I don’t discriminate  I think any 12 pack/case would suffice.  Thanks again for all the speedy replies.  There’s no telling how much damage I would’ve inflicted on the old girl if I had to figure it out on my own. You guys, this forum is Stupendous!

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WVHillbilly520H

Snow plow hook up in pictures...

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SylvanLakeWH

Next time - Drink the Labatts first, then get the hammer...:ychain:

 

 

20 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

Snow plow hook up in pictures...

IMAG3551.jpg

BTW - WVHillbilly520H's pics are great! - just be careful spreading the cobwebs on yours...they need to be just right...:ROTF:

 

 

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WVHillbilly520H
42 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

Next time - Drink the Labatts first, then get the hammer...:ychain:

 

 

BTW - WVHillbilly520H's pics are great! - just be careful spreading the cobwebs on yours...they need to be just right...:ROTF:

 

 

Thanks for that PSA...:ROTF:

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The Tuul Crib
2 hours ago, cleat said:

Canadian beer makes everything better.....(Canadian Whiskey even better).

 

 

 

1 hour ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

Thanks for that PSA...:ROTF:

It's jack Daniels here!!

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gwest_ca
4 hours ago, Volant1006 said:

Is this the rod you mean?  I held the button & tried piushing, pulling, up, down...nothing budged?!?

 

 

9105646B-02EE-41B1-8536-ED1EA87C51D6.jpeg

That cross tube and shaft is definitely bent.

 

Garry

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peter lena

great response on your problem, bending that adjustment rod back, take advantage of location. unscrew adjustment knob , put a thin pry bar between bent bar and front axel , mechanical advantage makes it easy. also put a couple of spring clips in the lift levers on the rear axel hook up, prevent plow drop. response on this, was terrific , pictures/ how to, glad to be here , pete 

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Tankman
20 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

C'mon Cleat,  It's hard to beat home grown Pa corn squeezins.

 

Amish hard apple cider is healthy too. :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Razorback
9 minutes ago, Tankman said:

Amish hard apple cider is healthy too. :handgestures-thumbupright:

If you are ever in NW Arkansas, among a BUNCH of local breweries and wineries, we have an awesome cidery called Black Apple Crossing in Springdale, AR. They have been in business for 5 years or so and are making some really awesome ciders!

 

https://blackapplecrossing.com/

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Tankman

When a grunt (USMC) was stationed in Millington, TN, mid-sixties, a few months then back to Lejeune.

 

Weekends in Arkansas were great!

Catfish tails and French fries, 99 cents. :ychain:

Edited by Tankman

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Volant1006

Success, blade is on!  Although it looks like it’s not the correct blade for the 300 series, the handle gets in the way of the brake pedal unless the blade is turned all the way to the right.  I’ll see if I can make it work or rig it somehow.  I came across another thread here were someone had the same problem

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Ed Kennell

I had to add a spacer to move the lever out enough to clear the motion control pedal in my 312 hydro .    You may also have to lengthen the 1/2" rod to get the lever more vertical.

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gwest_ca

That handle comes off the A-frame and goes out about two inches.

You can remove it and turn it around so the bend moves the upper part in toward the tractor. That may give you enough pedal clearance on the other side of the pedal.

 

Garry

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