Plowing snow. How about your tips, tricks and advice?

[LengerichKA88 1,883]

5 minutes ago, ericj said:

looks like the top side isn't worn so you can flip them over and use the other side, otherwise you should be able to get one from your local toro dealer. If you have know a good machine shop you can have a heavier one made up, thicker steel, some guys have put rubber or plastic on the bottom. try searching cutting edge. good luck

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

eric j 

Hadn’t even thought of simply flipping it over (facepalm). Thanks Eric!

[ebinmaine 67,460]

27 minutes ago, KyleLengerich said:

Dumb question: 

do you do this with regular valve stems, or are there valve stems specifically for liquid filling? 

First and foremost I'd like to correct you. You stated

Dumb question

That was NOT a dumb question

There is only ONE dumb question

That is the one you Did Not Ask...

 

 

Now to answer your actual question. Both.

Some tire dealers and other folks will tell you that you do need specific valve stems but most people will tell you that you can use any tube or valve stem you want. It just slows the process down a bit.

[LengerichKA88 1,883]

6 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

First and foremost I'd like to correct you. You stated

Dumb question

That was NOT a dumb question

There is only ONE dumb question

That is the one you Did Not Ask...

 

 

Now to answer your actual question. Both.

Some tire dealers and other folks will tell you that you do need specific valve stems but most people will tell you that you can use any tube or valve stem you want. It just slows the process down a bit.

I stand corrected. 

Thanks @ebinmaine, I’ve been kicking around the idea, just wanted to ask the pros. I’m thinking that in the future, if I do a narrow front end on our Charger 10 that that would almost be mandatory to help keepbtye front end planted. 

 

Also: I just got off the phone with our local Ace Hardware, and after some digging we’ve found that the contact edge is now part number 92-6034-03. They can get it for $70 plus shipping, but EBay has them cheaper if anyone needs. I will be buying ours from the local dealer simply because shipping times don’t allow for instant gratification. 

[Sarge 3,463]

Ok - here's an FYI. 

 

Save your money - those cutting edges are just plain A36 or A50 steel from Toro. Nothing special, and honestly far too soft to really be used as a good edge on a blade. 1018 from a welding shop, or something better will be cheaper in the long run, most shops have metalworking hydraulic stamping machines (punch press, ironworker, ect) that can punch the square holes. Otherwise, get a new piece the appropriate size to fit (somewhat thicker is fine, but takes longer to break in to a cutting bevel) and mark out the hole spacing. Drill the holes to either the 5/16" or 3/8" diameter to match the original bolts. Hunt around on Ebay for a four-corner file, or square file (depends on the maker as to it's name). Typical file sizing applies here, for 1/4" square holes you need a 6-8" long square file. Bigger holes can be done with a smaller file such as that, or use a larger double cut 8-10" foursquare for larger holes from 3/8" and up. I can easily file all the new holes out square in a matter of 10 minutes or less with a quality made 4-square file. Beats paying a shop to cut them, or having to buy an ironworker press and die set to do the job. Want an edge that will easily cut dirt, snow, ice, ect??? 1055 high carbon has the right mix for durability and elasticity to not be brittle. Wears excellent (nearly none) and will not wear out - it should outlast at least 5-6 stock Toro cutting edges. Once 1055 gets broken in (a nice, flat concrete drive/parking lot will do the trick) it will easily cut through packed snow and ice without skipping over the top of it, very little down pressure is necessary. In fact, too much down pressure on seal coated asphalt will remove the seal coating .

 

Pre-beveled 1055 steel sources -

https://www.discountsteel.com/items/1055_Steel_Beveled_Cutting_Edge.cfm

The above does carry 3/8" thickness, perfect for most 42-48" blades. If your blade is badly worn/damaged it can be welded, if properly pre-heated using 7018.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Cutting-Hardened-Skidsteer-Tractor/dp/B01AYOY2ZA

I see the thinnest they carry now is 1/2", pretty serious overkill but it will still work. Roughly the same price as the soft Toro product.

 

Square/four corner files sources -

1/4" - 6" long sizing

https://www.amazon.com/Simonds-American-Pattern-Double-Thickness/dp/B00018AGKK/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1544552031&sr=1-5&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A4637162011

 

5/16" - 8" sizing, see the pattern?

https://www.amazon.com/11088-American-Pattern-Machinist-Square/dp/B0742N9CDQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1544552031&sr=1-6&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A4637162011

 

A table of Simonds 4-square files and their sizing - great brand/quality, just pick your size

https://www.amazon.com/Simonds-American-Pattern-Double-Thickness/dp/B006P2YU3K/ref=sr_1_14?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1544552336&sr=1-14&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A4637162011

 

For making your square holes, double cut American pattern will work faster since surface finish is not really important. Another tip - do not buy standard off-the-shelf carriage bolts, most are simply cheap Grade 2, far too soft to do the job. Get quality Grade 5 from Fastenal or similar. It only takes about 10-15 strokes to cut a pre-drilled round hole to shape it into a square hole to correctly fit a carriage bolt. On higher carbon steels such as 1055 - use cobalt bits and a correct, slow rpm with plenty of cutting oil. Take your time and be careful, cobalt bits are brittle but can withstand cutting harder steels. You will find a ton of uses for those square files once you own them and learn to use them properly. Never, ever apply pressure to cut on the pull stroke, only on the push stroke since that is how files are designed to cut. Putting pressure in the direction that you need to cut the hole will produce a factory-looking carriage bolt hole quickly. It comes in quite handy when making new parts for our old equipment or fabricating new items. Cheap solution, long lasting results, gotta love that.

 

Sarge

 

 

[pfrederi 17,735]

If you do not feel like filing sandwich the old blade edge on top of the new one you drilled round holes in.  the square hole in the old one will hold the Carriage bolt.  Like Sarge said get some Gr 5 bolts from Mcmaster Fastnal etc Depending on the thickness of your new edge you may have to go longer on the new  bolts.

[Ed Kennell 38,162]

6 hours ago, KyleLengerich said:

I may have asked this question elsewhere,  I don’t remember and I can’t find it if I did. If it is a duplicate question I apologize.  

Are there any places (local to central Indiana, or online) that anyone’s used to replace the cutting edge/wear bar (that’s what I’ve always heard it referred to) of their plow? I’m pretty sure we’re sporting the original. Ours is a 42in blade. 

 

That scraper bar looks like it has several seasons of plowing before it even needs turned over to use the top edge.   Do you have a picture of the back side to show how much scraper bar extends below the dozer blade?

[rjg854 11,361]

On  Facebook there is a page,  Wheel Horse Garden Tractors and Parts, a person on there has new scraper bars for sale.  Not priced to bad.  So there might be another option .

.

[LengerichKA88 1,883]

1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

That scraper bar looks like it has several seasons of plowing before it even needs turned over to use the top edge.   Do you have a picture of the back side to show how much scraper bar extends below the dozer blade?

If I need to take a picture from another angle, just let me know and I’ll be happy to oblige. 

 

[LengerichKA88 1,883]

1 minute ago, rjg854 said:

On  Facebook there is a page,  Wheel Horse Garden Tractors and Parts, a person on there has new scraper bars for sale.  Not priced to bad.  So there might be another option .

.

Fantastic! Always good to have options! 

[rjg854 11,361]

[LengerichKA88 1,883]

@Sarge, I don’t know why I didn’t see your reply earlier, but that is definitely a wealth of information! Thank you! May just make my own 

[Pullstart 62,843]

9 hours ago, KyleLengerich said:

Dumb question: 

do you do this with regular valve stems, or are there valve stems specifically for liquid filling? 

 

Kyle, I think Eric’s response pretty much summed it up. 

 

I used the cheapest tubes on eBay and left the valve cores in.  

 

I also agree, the only question is the one you didn’t ask... unless you come up with one that really is dumb... then I’ll give ya’ a dumb answer 

[953 nut 55,210]

10 hours ago, KyleLengerich said:

Dumb question: 

do you do this with regular valve stems, or are there valve stems specifically for liquid filling? 

I have RV antifreeze in several tires, some have tubes and some have regular tubeless tire valve stems. The adapter can be picked up at Tractor supply for about $ 10.00 and a little drill operated pump or a pond/fountain pump will transfer the liquid.

SIZE                 GALLONS Per Tire                WEIGHT in POUNDS

• 16x6.50-8               2.0                            21.4
• 18x7.00-8               3.0                            32.1 
• 18x8.50-8               3.4                            36.4 
• 18x9.50-8               4.0                            42.8
• 23x8.50-12             5.5                            58.9
• 23x10.50-12           6.8                            72.8
• 6-12                        3.6                            38.5

[Ed Kennell 38,162]

4 hours ago, KyleLengerich said:

If I need to take a picture from another angle, just let me know and I’ll be happy to oblige. 

 

 

That's worn more than I thought.  It should be flipped over.

 

[LengerichKA88 1,883]

11 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

It should be flipped over.

Good to know that I can do that, though. Gives me time to make my own like Sarge suggested. 

[LengerichKA88 1,883]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

I have RV antifreeze in several tires, some have tubes and some have regular tubeless tire valve stems. The adapter can be picked up at Tractor supply for about $ 10.00 and a little drill operated pump or a pond/fountain pump will transfer the liquid.

SIZE                 GALLONS Per Tire                WEIGHT in POUNDS

• 16x6.50-8               2.0                            21.4
• 18x7.00-8               3.0                            32.1 
• 18x8.50-8               3.4                            36.4 
• 18x9.50-8               4.0                            42.8
• 23x8.50-12             5.5                            58.9
• 23x10.50-12           6.8                            72.8
• 6-12                        3.6                            38.5

Thanks for the info! I’m guessing that with out tubes you’d use air to seat the tire and then let it back out to fill with fluid, correct? 

[ebinmaine 67,460]

5 hours ago, KyleLengerich said:

Thanks for the info! I’m guessing that with out tubes you’d use air to seat the tire and then let it back out to fill with fluid, correct? 

Yepp.

 

When you get around to it...

Call Rimguard company and see if they have a local dealer to you.

 

[Rob R 966]

Regarding blade edges purchased a sheet of POLY 4" X 48" drilled the holes using the old scrapper bar as a guide (easy) and mounted on top (also easy). Been using for two years and I absolutely love the results and it also is filpable….. 

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Definitely agree with all the above regarding safety.... in general especially with all the 4 wheel drive SUV's on the road everyone drives way to fast in snow and icy conditions you need to add all the safety items you can to you machine. I added a cigarette lighter outlet to my plowing C-81 so I have a plug in rotating yellow blinker on whenever I plow as well as front and rear working lights and a magnetic triangle reflector on the back seat..... all of these are transferable to any horse that I use..... even in daylight and good weather.....

Edited December 12, 2018 by Rob R