C-125 Rejuvenation.

[Stormin 9,981]

 Three coats of primer and red top coat applied today to the bonnet. Also the drive belt guard. Engine flywheel and head covers primed also.

 

 

Black will be done tomorrow all being well.

 

 

[Stormin 9,981]

  Got the bonnet/hood masked up ready for doing the black. Got one coat on but it's been a bit to cold for painting. -2c with the east wind we're getting.

  So I got the engine onto the bench and stripped off what's necessary prior to removing the piston and rod. The bore looks good, so when I get those out, I'll give it a bit of a clean and get the bore deglazed. Valves should be ok as I had them re-cut and I ground them in, when I did the head gasket a couple of years ago.

 

 

 

 

[stevasaurus 22,911]

Does look like the paint is trying to dry. 

[Stormin 9,981]

Those covers were done yesterday. It's the black I did this morning that's the trouble. Dry now though.

 

 

[19richie66 17,531]

Looking great!

[Stormin 9,981]

 Not much progress these last couple of days as the weather has taken a turn for the worse. Cold, wet and windy. Snow on the higher ground.

 

I did get the piston and rod out and pleased at the condition of bore, crank' pin and rod big end bearings. Not a mark to be seen. I did find the top and middle rings end gaps were lined up and not staggered. Also the gaps were in line with the valves and that was where there was any carbon. Could that have been contributing to the oil burning? Just a thought.

[Razorback 1,042]

The staggering of the ring gaps is done for that exact reason..... to keep the oil from getting to the combustion side of the piston.

[Stormin 9,981]

  I know. First time I've ever open an engine and found the gaps not staggered.

[ebinmaine 68,878]

2 hours ago, Stormin said:

Could that have been contributing to the oil burning? 

Yes

[Stormin 9,981]

 The question was asked to see if anyone agreed with what I was assuming. Thanks lads.

 

 If the rings had been fitted correctly, the engine wouldn't have been burning oil. If I hadn't seen Richards (Anglo Traction) ad. If I hadn't bought the parts off him. I wouldn't have taken the engine out. AND I WOULDN'T HAVE TAKEN THE TRACTOR TO BITS.

[Stormin 9,981]

  I've been having a think about what to do and would like to know what others think. Do I put the original piston, rings and rod back in with new bolts and rings staggered,  or fit the new piston etc? In theory it should be ok as everything is already bedded in.

  If I do, as the big end is lubricated by splash, I'll put a smear of vaseline on the crank pin and shells for lubrication on start up. If the crank was pump lubricated I'd just smear some oil on them. That's what I've done with motorcycle or car engines in the past.

  So, thoughts please.

 

[AMC RULES 37,141]

 Might find something in here that will help you. 

 

[stevasaurus 22,911]

I would think that you would want to use the balls to deglaze the cylinder.  Put in new rings, and if the piston is still in specs...use that.  I would not re-use those rings.  :)

[Stormin 9,981]

Deglazing and the new rings are another option I was thinking of.

 

Crank measures 1.499" and true. I'll borrow an internal micrometer and measure the bore.

[Stormin 9,981]

  Well the bore was within spec, so it got a deglaze and the new piston, rings and rod fitted. Now all the engine needs is a coat of paint and re-fitted in the tractor. There's still some bits and bobs to paint as well as the bonnet/hood to finish, but I'm afraid the weather needs to improve first. Very wet and damp now.

[Stormin 9,981]

 Managed to get a fair bit done today. One or two hiccups, but not a bad day.

 

 Got the engine painted and it dried quite quickly.

 

It's now back in place.

 

  Next job was to refit the drive belt. Here was boo boo number 1. As you can see from the first photo' the bottom run of the belt is UNDER the brake pedal when it should be over the TOP. Footplate loosened, brake connecting rod disconnected and pedal moved out. Belt was then fitted and everything now as it should be.

 

 I then moved onto the P.T.O.. Here was boo boo number 2. I found I couldn't connect the support bar to the shaft end. The hinge was fouling the shaft end. Took everything off again and I found I could knock the drive pulley further onto the shaft. Only by 1/16" but that was enough.

 

 I refitted the fuel pump and governor linkage next, then thought it would be a good idea to fill the engine with oil. That done I decided to have a tidy up.

 Looking round at the tractor to admire my handy work I saw it. Boo boo number 3. A big puddle of OIL under the tractor.  The engine has a tube running from where the drain plug would be, to one side of the tractor for draining the engine oil. I'd forgotten to FIT IT. Muppet! 

 

Edited December 20, 2018 by Stormin

[stevasaurus 22,911]

It's a good thing you are not on the clock Norm.       Starting to look like a Horse again. 

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,358]

@Stormin We all have those days things just don't go right. You rebuild of your tractor is moving along nicely.

[Stormin 9,981]

On ‎12‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 9:17 PM, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

@Stormin We all have those days things just don't go right.

 

You said it, Jim.

 

  Didn't get any workshop time yesterday, as I took SWMBO down to her sisters. When I went in this morning, there was another pool of oil under the tractor. Just a small one this time. I thought at first the sump gasket was leaking, but after removing the engine and fitting a new gasket, with gasket sealer, the leak was still there. Just a weep.

  On closer inspection I found it wasn't the gasket but a hair line crack by one of the bolts. How that had happened I don't know. Perhaps I'm stronger than I think. Heavy handed I'm not as a rule.

  Degreased and cleaned up the sump, but could not see where the crack was. I have some two part epoxy metal replacement stuff, which I have used on a petrol tank with success. So thought I'll give it a try. It got two choices. It'll work or it won't.

  I nipped up to the farm and used to acet' torch to heat things up and get rid of any remaining contamination. Doing this the crack was plain to see, as the heat drove oil out of the crack. Tomorrow I'll apply the metal replacement, put the sump back on, fill with oil and leave the engine on the bench. We'll see what happens.

Edited December 23, 2018 by Stormin

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,358]

Good luck , hope everything works out for you.

[ebinmaine 68,878]

7 minutes ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

Good luck , hope everything works out for you.

 

 

9 hours ago, Stormin said:

......got two choices. It'll work or it won't.

 

I tell folks these words.... Often !!

Gets a good laugh from most.

 

[Stormin 9,981]

  I've applied some epoxy metal adhesive to where the crack is. The sump is now on the bench and filled with oil. I'll leave it there for a couple of days and see how things go.

  Looks like I've to get rid of some of my attachments before I can post any more photo's.

Edited December 24, 2018 by Stormin

[Tuneup 1,433]

I'm enjoying this thread - especially to see another C125 being saved. For the past 10 years or so, I have to sit back and think through each step to be sure nothing was forgotten. It's frustrating. Did I torque that rod bolt? Do it again. Gee, didn't have that problem at 16 on those minibikes with the Teckies but it sure is a problem at 55 with Wheel Horses and Fords! Merry Christmas and keep it comin'.

[19richie66 17,531]

Yellow note pad with a check list. Works great unless you lose it or spill something on it.

[Stormin 9,981]

  Forgot to re-new my subs.

 

In the first photo you can just see the crack.

 

Second photo' what I've used to seal it.

 

And applied.

 

  Just checked this morning and no sign of a leak so far.

Edited December 25, 2018 by Stormin