Sunstrand parking brake location?

[Pullstart 63,097]

Anyone with a sunstrand transmission, could you possibly snap a pic of the parking brake lever while engaged and released and post them up please?  I want to lock my current project in “drive” in regards to the brake lever.

 

thanks!

 

 

[pfrederi 17,886]

You are missing some parts and the belt is routed incorrectly  let me find some pictures.  What model is this on

 

Edited November 1, 2018 by pfrederi

[Pullstart 63,097]

8 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

You are missing some parts and the belt is routed incorrectly  let me find some pictures.  What model is this on

 

 

It’s a custom jobby... I intentionally changed it, to essentially delete the parking brake.  Now I’d like to “lock” the brake lever in place, to eliminate it’s functionality.  I just don’t know what position is “run” and what is “stop”.

[pfrederi 17,886]

Up is engaged

[pfrederi 17,886]

That idler pulley is not going to last long on the tension side of the belt idlers are always on the return

Edited November 1, 2018 by pfrederi

[Pullstart 63,097]

5 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

That idler pulley is not going to last long on the tension side of the belt idlers are always on the return

 I didn’t think of that, thank you for your input!

[Achto 27,806]

There is a good chance that the parking brake has been sheared off inside the tranny. This was a real common issue on those transmissions.

[Achto 27,806]

4 hours ago, pullstart said:

Anyone with a sunstrand transmission, could you possibly snap a pic of the parking brake lever while engaged and released and post them up please?

 

@pfrederi's picture shows the late model set up - 1967 & up. Here is a picture of the early set up - '65 & '66. The pic shows it in the engaged (drive) position. When you push the black lever down it releases tension on the drive belt and allows the parking brake lever on the transmission to come up.

Edited November 1, 2018 by Achto

[pfrederi 17,886]

I am not sure if I understand you correctly.  Bottom line if you pull the he parking pawl lever up it engages the brake pushing it down releases it.  It pivots when the lever is up the pawl is down into the gears. See my poor yellow lines it drops into the gear running in the closed end bearing..   Makes no difference as to what year. The brake is engaged in this picture

 

[Achto 27,806]

17 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

I am not sure if I understand you correctly.

Please reread my post. I had to amend it after I ran out to the garage & took a second look. Didn't think it sounded right after I wrote it. Sorry bout that.

[pfrederi 17,886]

Got it!!

[Pullstart 63,097]

On 11/1/2018 at 4:31 PM, Achto said:

There is a good chance that the parking brake has been sheared off inside the tranny. This was a real common issue on those transmissions.

 

FYI oh Rat Fink Dan,

 

holding thevlever up, I can feel it jump/skip while pushing forward, it grabs pull it backwards.  It’s toast.  Are there odds of shavings still floating around after a fluid/filter change?  When I put it into operation, should I go through a few filters to begin with?

[953 nut 55,835]

10 minutes ago, pullstart said:

should I go through a few filters to begin with?

That would probably be a waste of money. The strainer inside the transaxle wouldn't allow them to reach the pump and filter. Also, with the brake being at the front of the housing the metal pieces are probably lying harmlessly in front of the hump in the housing and wouldn't even move when the fluid is being changed.

[Achto 27,806]

9 hours ago, pullstart said:

I can feel it jump/skip while pushing forward, it grabs pull it backwards.  It’s toast

 

The parking brakes on these were never very strong. They were easily damaged if the brake was pulled while the tractor was still in motion. The parking brake is #33 in the diagram below, when engaged the brake would drop into the teeth on the mushroom gear #21 to lock the transmission. Sounds like the edges of your brake may be rounded off a little, causing it to skip when pushing the tractor forward.

  

 

The parking brake on my 1076 is shot also, it won't grab in either direction. I just pay attention to where I park so it don't roll away on me.

Edited November 7, 2018 by Achto

[Pullstart 63,097]

41 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

The parking brakes on these were never very strong. They were easily damaged if the brake was pulled while the tractor was still in motion. The parking brake is #33 in the diagram below, when engaged the brake would drop into the teeth on the mushroom gear #21 to lock the transmission. Sounds like the edges of your brake may be rounded off a little, causing it to skip when pushing the tractor forward.

  

 

The parking brake on my 1076 is shot also, it won't grab in either direction. I just pay attention to where I park so it don't roll away on me.

 

This helps a bunch, I can totally understand how stamped steel can be torn up by a gear!  It needs a small gear section grafted into the arm to be effective, I’d suppose.  Or just park on flat surfaces and call it a day

[pfrederi 17,886]

2 hours ago, pullstart said:

 

This helps a bunch, I can totally understand how stamped steel can be torn up by a gear!  It needs a small gear section grafted into the arm to be effective, I’d suppose.  Or just park on flat surfaces and call it a day

Some models D series for instance the parking brake was a pawl.  Sort of like a bent finger with teeth  #4-33

Edited November 7, 2018 by pfrederi

[Pullstart 63,097]

On 11/1/2018 at 4:16 PM, pfrederi said:

That idler pulley is not going to last long on the tension side of the belt idlers are always on the return

 

On 11/1/2018 at 4:22 PM, pullstart said:

 I didn’t think of that, thank you for your input!

 

I have rerouted the belt and tensioner, for anyone looking at this in the future.  Sometimes I forget to follow up to bring a question or issue to closure.

 

 

[R. L. Addison 299]

Three of the last four I have been into have had the epoxy that holds the strainers together let loose & the strainers have been in pieces in the bottom of the case. No others have mentioned it, so maybe I'm the only one, but why just these? I'm now putting safety wire through them to keep them together.

[Jakeshorsetuff 36]

On 11/9/2018 at 1:24 PM, R. L. Addison said:

Three of the last four I have been into have had the epoxy that holds the strainers together let loose & the strainers have been in pieces in the bottom of the case. No others have mentioned it, so maybe I'm the only one, but why just these? I'm now putting safety wire through them to keep them together.

I had a charger 12 transmission strainer get ground up in the gears a while back but could never find one to replace it. Now I am doing a full rebuild on the tranny and found a strainer but don't know to epoxy the strainer in or not? LMK what your thoughts are.

[R. L. Addison 299]

 I epoxied mine back together then ran wire (stainless).

[R. L. Addison 299]

 Sorry to have to make two entries, can't remember how to do multiples.

 I just folded wire into open end.

 I used care in drilling! Hope you can tell wire is between pleats in picture.

[Jakeshorsetuff 36]

Just to clarify you don't epoxy the strainer in the hole to the tranny, but epoxy a magnet to the other side

3 hours ago, R. L. Addison said:

 Sorry to have to make two entries, can't remember how to do multiples.

 I just folded wire into open end.

 I used care in drilling! Hope you can tell wire is between pleats in picture.

 

[R. L. Addison 299]

 That is an older screen than the ones that came apart in my transmissions, the magnets are epoxied on the closed end of the screen as in my pictures, outside. The wire will hold them   in place as shown. 

 Maybe updated for fear the magnets could come out or they caused a reduction in oil flow to pump. Closed loop system should not make that much difference though.