jeremi3210 735 #76 Posted November 14, 2018 Mines still going strong!!! It’s awesome to have hi low on that tractor. Right now Iam making a custom set of tiller pulleys so I can use my tiller on it! If you have any questions about how I did mine Iam here to help you out any way I can. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,429 #77 Posted November 14, 2018 1 hour ago, jeremi3210 said: have any questions about how I did mine Iam here to help you out any way I can. Gotta love these Redsquare Folk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,836 #78 Posted November 14, 2018 7 hours ago, jeremi3210 said: Mines still going strong!!! It’s awesome to have hi low on that tractor. Right now Iam making a custom set of tiller pulleys so I can use my tiller on it! If you have any questions about how I did mine Iam here to help you out any way I can. Do you have any photos or measurements that would help with knowing how much needs to be removed from the bull gear and from which side? Shaved one side of the bull gear down to fit it in the 1054 case. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeremi3210 735 #79 Posted November 15, 2018 No photos or measurements, sorry. From what I can remember it was about a 1/4 inch off the side of the bull gear where the drive gear for it splines stopped. I did it with a 90 degree die grinder and a sanding disk. It didn’t take very long just grind a little and try to fit it. You have to make sure that it won’t bind at all so just take your time and some trial fits. If my memory is right there was a post on here a few years ago that had pictures of doing this. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,871 #80 Posted November 15, 2018 We are talking about where the bull gear would hit the bottom of the 11 teeth part of the mushroom gear. I think you can see in this picture where the bull gear might be hitting. Grinding off some of the bottom edge of the bull gear would solve the issue. The bull gear is wide enough to do this without sacrificing strength. You can see the bull gear in the center left of this picture...it is at least 2" wide. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeremi3210 735 #81 Posted November 15, 2018 Yes. That is what you have to make sure clears. It isn’t much you have to take off. Just make sure after your done it doesn’t bind anywhere in a full turn. Other than that you will have to grind slots in the axles for snap rings. I know the 953 axle are different lengths and the 8 pinion axle are the same length. All I did was put the in so they were close to the same and put one of the hubs in a little to make up the difference. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TravelinJavelin 620 #82 Posted November 16, 2018 the axles are all set there someone at one time did this but they only used 4 out of 8 pinions for some odd reason 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,836 #83 Posted December 1, 2018 How are you coming along on the transmission? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TravelinJavelin 620 #84 Posted December 2, 2018 (edited) hey nut i just got it done..............................after crazy weather and health haven't been cooperating i just got it done lol and shifts like a million dollars and would like to thank everyone that has contributed for there help and a special thanks to stevasauras for the vids and conversations to get this back in motion red square members are the best .........will say the differential was the most difficult just becuase working with just a angle grinder and eying everything 3 1/2 hr task by itself so hopefully next week end i'll have it in the tractor lol...................getting ready for a gig now and play some old rock n roll Edited December 2, 2018 by TravelinJavelin 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TravelinJavelin 620 #85 Posted December 3, 2018 well i just got it back together and shifts runs good no odd sounding noises to speak of but .............................when i go to turn sharp its wants go straight tell me whats up with that ? would it be possible the pinions are too tight or something or what do you think lol? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,871 #86 Posted December 3, 2018 Brandon, I hate to say this, but you and I have some things in common...we do not need chains or wheel weights. Probably not much weight in the front end, you put a blower or a blade on there and I bet you would be OK. No such thing as tight pinions... The horse looks fantastic Mate. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TravelinJavelin 620 #87 Posted December 3, 2018 steve thats actually great news to me after puting this thing in ohh don't know how many times its been now lol but it shifts awesome goes good no slipping no grinding .......i figuire i must have done something right lol 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,429 #88 Posted December 3, 2018 Brandon, my Honey's 657 does the same thing... She also has those small Tri rib tires in the front. Those steer great on dry ground but any moisture such as mud or snow and you have to really fight for control. I would highly recommend trying to get some kind of front weight on that machine. As Steve said, that machine looks great. I'm looking forward to seeing it again. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,871 #89 Posted December 3, 2018 It has been a pleasure helping you get this horse up and running. The fact that it now shifts and runs fantastic is music to my ears. Enjoy your ride Mate. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TravelinJavelin 620 #90 Posted December 3, 2018 yeah eric i never had ribbed tires before so i figuired when i got them they would work good in the snow but guess not Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TravelinJavelin 620 #91 Posted December 3, 2018 (edited) Steve ......can't thank you enough for the assistance and eric thank you for the parts help i truly apreciate it and all the other memebers that have chimed in as well you have all been great thank you so much!!! Edited December 3, 2018 by TravelinJavelin 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,871 #92 Posted December 3, 2018 You know...we have a bunch of threads talking about tri-ribs and snow...really need weight in the front for those. Definitely better plowing dirt. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 68,429 #93 Posted December 3, 2018 3 minutes ago, TravelinJavelin said: yeah eric i never had ribbed tires before so i figuired when i got them they would work good in the snow but guess not There are two things you could do that would help you out quite a bit One is to make the front end heavier. Whether you put fluid on the inside of the tires or Steel on the outside of the tires, or preferably both.... or, you could also get some weight on the front of the frame if you have the space to do so. The other thing would be a little more difficult with a tri rib tire but I think you could pull it off. Get some number 40 roller chain. Like motorcycle chain. Get that wrapped around the tire to form a second outside bead of tread and the steel of the chain will bite in substantially better than the single rib of rubber. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TravelinJavelin 620 #94 Posted December 3, 2018 well if its weights then that makes me feel so much better in a straight i charging through 8" like nothing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TravelinJavelin 620 #95 Posted December 3, 2018 i think we'll try some weights first and will get my plow on tomorrow and pin up my hydraulics 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites