I Just Had to Have One

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,496]

Nice looking 123.  The 123 came out in 1966 and was made through 1967 model year, so more than likely it's not a 1965. The 102 and 122 came out in 1965, but the 123 was a year later, probably due to it's being the first hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet.  Build date might be 1965, but I don't have a break down of build dates for models, only serial numbers.  If you can get the serial number, then we can determine build date.  Here is where the serial number would be.

 

 

[dclarke 4,032]

I had this one back in the early 80s but not sure what model it was. Good luck with yours Terry. 

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,496]

That would be the Original, the very first L&G tractor IH made, which would have been 1961, and they made this model until the 70 and 100 came out in 1963.  They're very desirable and worth collecting, though I, myself, don't like the Original.  IH's first attempt at a L&G model was the Original (though it was just called "Cub Cadet" by IH, the Original moniker is what collectors call them now). They wanted a drive shaft to the transmission, but since they had the frame angled down, it raised the engine a bit higher than the transmission, so they put a pulley on both the engine and the front of the drive shaft and ran a very small belt between the two.  This configuration makes the Original sit lower to the ground, therefore a weird (to me) driving position.  When IH came out with the 70 and 100 in 1963, they flipped the frame so the engine was inline with the transmission, therefore the eliminated the belt between the engine and drive shaft, and they now had a direct drive which is what they intended in the first place.

 

BTW, if anyone has a Cub Cadet and needs manuals, register at Only Cub Cadets and they have a manual section:  https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/index.php

[cschannuth 3,816]

25 minutes ago, T-Mo said:

That would be the Original, the very first L&G tractor IH made, which would have been 1961, and they made this model until the 70 and 100 came out in 1963.  They're very desirable and worth collecting, though I, myself, don't like the Original.  IH's first attempt at a L&G model was the Original (though it was just called "Cub Cadet" by IH, the Original moniker is what collectors call them now). They wanted a drive shaft to the transmission, but since they had the frame angled down, it raised the engine a bit higher than the transmission, so they put a pulley on both the engine and the front of the drive shaft and ran a very small belt between the two.  This configuration makes the Original sit lower to the ground, therefore a weird (to me) driving position.  When IH came out with the 70 and 100 in 1963, they flipped the frame so the engine was inline with the transmission, therefore the eliminated the belt between the engine and drive shaft, and they now had a direct drive which is what they intended in the first place.

 

BTW, if anyone has a Cub Cadet and needs manuals, register at Only Cub Cadets and they have a manual section:  https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/index.php

 

Nice find.  Did the the early 60's Cubs have rear fenders?  I feel like I've seen round fenders on older models but maybe I'm dreaming that up.  I love the Cubs btw.  When I was a kid I mowed for an older couple that had a large hydro Cub.  I thought I was pretty hot stuff driving that big (compared to me) tractor.

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,496]

Fenders on the Original, 70, 100, 71, 72, and 73 were optional.  They're pricey now if you can find a set.  There are reproductions out there, which for most of us, good enough.  Headlights were another option, that if found today will be pricey.

 

Some of the options on the early Cub Cadets, like some of the stuff on Wheel Horses, are pricey and hard to find now.  Things like fenders, headlights, rear reflectors, creeper gear, hydraulic lifts, 3 point lifts, etc., are pricey when you find these things now.

[RandyLittrell 3,884]

Looks like a good find @T-Mo, pretty clean and already has ags and a blade. If I were you, I would go ahead and pull the head to look things over. Head gasket is cheap and if the cylinder looks ok after you break it loose you will have already dealt with the head gasket. Clutch plates probably need turned and a new disc while you are in there. The throwout bearings and teaser spring is a good bet to replace as well. I love the 100's one of the best looking cubs! 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,496]

Thansk, Randy @RandyLittrell, I agree on the looks of the 100, as well as the 70.  I just hope I don't get in over my head, which isn't too hard for that to happen.  I have to address the coil problem, if that is what really is the problem.  And I'm sure there is a fuel related problem as well.

[RandyLittrell 3,884]

I have a 100 with rear PTO but its a long way from a runner. But I have to retire someday and will have lots to do! 

 

 

Randy

[RandyLittrell 3,884]

On 10/17/2018 at 8:44 PM, WHX21 said:

 Just something about that  hood ornament. 

 

 

Thats actually the correct way!! 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,496]

Update.  Set the gap on the points, replaced the coil, clean the carburetor and replaced the float, plus new gaskets, cleaned the breather, and now it starts.  Will have to buy a new battery for it, fix the grille support so the hood does not hit the steering wheel when opening and closing, and I will change the fluid on the transmission.

[RandyLittrell 3,884]

11 hours ago, T-Mo said:

Update.  Set the gap on the points, replaced the coil, clean the carburetor and replaced the float, plus new gaskets, cleaned the breather, and now it starts.  Will have to buy a new battery for it, fix the grille support so the hood does not hit the steering wheel when opening and closing, and I will change the fluid on the transmission.

 

The last 100 I bought they just cut the hood instead of straightening the front of the frame!

 

 

 

Randy

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,496]

2 hours ago, RandyLittrell said:

 

The last 100 I bought they just cut the hood instead of straightening the front of the frame!

 

 

 

Randy

It's sad that some of the previous owners get very creative (read butchered) when fixing things.

 

I would like to find a good steering wheel for this, and may look at buying aftermarket fenders from Xtreme Motor Works.  http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Parts Catalog/Body-Parts-Cub-Cadet.html

[RandyLittrell 3,884]

I have seen those fender kits, they don't look too bad at all. I believe they are modified trailer fenders, but it would take a lot of work to make all the pieces for yourself, so not a bad price really.  I really love no fenders on mine, but snow and mud would be a killer!! 

 

The wheel on one of mine isn't too bad and I can fix it up, but I think they are a little hard to come by. I think I saw a reproduction wheel on ebay maybe that looks like the original one. Not sure just how good they are. 

 

 

 

Randy

Edited October 30, 2018 by RandyLittrell

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,496]

It looks like Steiner has reproduction steering wheels for the 70 and 100, plus the 71, etc. for around $50.  I'm not sure how close they are to the original and how well made they are.

 

https://www.steinertractor.com/GTS002-steering-wheel

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,496]

I noticed the coil was pretty hot - too hot to touch. This was a coil that a buddy of mine had - the coil that was on it was bad. So, maybe this replacement coil might be the wrong kind - or it's bad also. I may have to buy a new, correct coil for this.  And/or trouble shoot this one to see what's making it hot to touch.