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T-Mo

I Just Had to Have One

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Jerry77

I had a 62....the one in the pix is a later model..maybe 64 or 65?  mine was an original with 7 hp and oil bath air cleaner and 38 in deck..that frame looks even later than that...:twocents-02cents:  

Edited by Jerry77
found the emoji

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71_Bronco

Hopefully it's an easy fix on the motor. Neat looking tractor, congrats

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Razorback

Looks promising. I hope you can get it running!

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T-Mo
42 minutes ago, Jerry77 said:

I had a 62....the one in the pix is a later model..maybe 64 or 65?  mine was an original with 7 hp and oil bath air cleaner and 38 in deck..that frame looks even later than that...:twocents-02cents:  

 

I'll have to check the serial number as soon as I can....as I said the 100 didn't debut until 1963 and was built through 1965 when it got replaced by the 102, 122, 123 (plus the 71 replaced the 70).

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ebinmaine

Early Cub is what got me interested in the GT stuff in the first place.

My grandfather had a yellow/white one I remember from the 1970s and bought a red (682??) Around 1980.

 

Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out.

Please keep us posted.

And as always... More. :text-coolphotos: would be awesome.

 

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WVHillbilly520H

Good deal, I grew up on an Original and a 106 was my first (out on my own) garden tractor, still have the Original that has been upgraded with a 70s 8hp from a Gravely, and most of the cubs through the 90s were decent machines even after MTD took over in the mid 80s, Jeff.

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WHX??

No matter the issues, those are all fixable, looks like a nice survivor, orginal and inside kept. Just something about that  hood ornament. :handgestures-thumbupright:

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T-Mo

Good news and bad news.  I loosen the belt to the S/G to see which was locked up, the S/G or the engine.  It was the engine....I pulled the plug and it isn't looking too good.  I see rust on top of the piston and the plug was weird looking.  All I had was a bit of motor oil, so I put a little straight through the plug hole and the engine turned just a tiny bit.  I will get something a bit stronger, maybe transmission fluid, and pour a bit of that in and let it sit for a spell.  Good news, the S/G isn't seized up.  So, there's that.

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T-Mo

Some pictures from before I got it off the trailer.  It still has the original dealers tag on it.  I haven't check the serial number yet to see what year it is.

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"Manic-Mechanic"

Nice find for sure! I never had the chance to work on the cubs as much, I was always told the rear end on them is super strong and coveted by pulling tractor enthusiast? Still a wonderful find.

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ebinmaine
24 minutes ago, T-Mo said:

Good news and bad news.  I loosen the belt to the S/G to see which was locked up, the S/G or the engine.  It was the engine....I pulled the plug and it isn't looking too good.  I see rust on top of the piston and the plug was weird looking.  All I had was a bit of motor oil, so I put a little straight through the plug hole and the engine turned just a tiny bit.  I will get something a bit stronger, maybe transmission fluid, and pour a bit of that in and let it sit for a spell.  Good news, the S/G isn't seized up.  So, there's that.

look up online and see what the ultimate rust breaker is. I think it was something strange like transmission fluid and acetone or power steering fluid and acetone.

Something like that.

 

pull the oil drain plug out and leave the pan under it and dump some of your rust breaker in the cylinder whatever it is.

if you leave the plug out and the pan under it, cleaned, you can see how much is moving through the engine.

if it's moving at all right now, fair chance you'll get that thing running without too much work.

 

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Mike'sHorseBarn

I've dumped marvel mystery oil in the head and let them sit before and it seems to break them loose. A cub 100 is a tractor I would like to own someday. I still use a cub 102 to mow grass with that belonged to my wife's grandfather and it still runs and works like a champ. Also have the cub original that my great grandfather bought brand new. I can't say much bad about the old cubs other than when they break they are a pain in the butt to work on compared to a horse. Keep us updated on your progress!

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Razorback

I sure hope you get it running. I really like my 1966 model 123 (the first hydrostatic they made). Mine has a mower deck and a tiller.... I bought it to use the tiller, deck works but is stored in the shed). And, yes, the rear end IS beefy!

 

 

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WVHillbilly520H

Those Cub Cadet rears are actually Farmall Cub center sections with different axles/housings, that's why they are rather beefy/tough, but look at those old Panzer's with their Chrysler rears, all the different brands have their strong and weak points if one manufacturer had been great in all areas there wouldn't have all the cool old lawn and garden tractors we thirst after.... @T-Molooks like a really good specimen you have there, the Original was actually belt driven to clutch but the 70/100 was the first direct flywheel to clutch shaft driven.

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dcrage

Terry That dealer tag is for a closed hardware store in south St Louis county. I contemplated buying a used Cub from them back in 1990 when I purchased my 310-8. 

 

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T-Mo
46 minutes ago, dcrage said:

Terry That dealer tag is for a closed hardware store in south St Louis county. I contemplated buying a used Cub from them back in 1990 when I purchased my 310-8. 

 

I figured as much - I googled them and they come up on one link with an address and a phone number.  The address is 11500 something like that Concord Village Road, which appears now as a Pawn Shop.  The phone number takes me to a eye clinic.  It's too bad small shops like that aren't in business anymore, which is par for the Wheel Horse dealers for the most part.  I know IH used various type stores like hardware stores to sell their tractors and equipment, so it didn't surprised me that this Cub Cadet was bought new at a hardware store.

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TIGman

Great find T-Mo ! :handgestures-thumbupright:

Will make you a nice one. 

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T-Mo

Update:

I pulled the drain plug and there were no metal shavings or parts in the oil - but a slight trace of possible water.  The engine seems to be loosening up some, I was able to turn it more and I can see the piston moving now.  I pour a mixture of transmission fluid and acetone in to loosen it up some more.

 

On a side note, I couldn't live with the rear tires on backwards anymore, just in case someone excuse me of doing it.  So I switch the tires around so they're now pointing in the right direction.;)

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Mows4three

Keep the photos coming, please.  Sounds like a great project tractor.   

 

I just saw an International 123 in good condition that made my heart race.   The thought BRIEFLY went through my head that I should ask about it's availability.   That was followed by the even stronger thought of trying to justify it to my wife.....    You get the picture.

 

Glad you switched the tires around.  That would have bugged me, too.

 

Cheers!

 

Dave

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T-Mo

Dave,

I had a 123 - it was the first hydrostatic drive tractor IH built for the Cub Cadet line.  I know a lot of people refer the wide frame CCs over the narrow frames, but I like the narrow frames the best.  Yes, there is less room to work on them, but they're also cooler to look at.  Here is my 123 that I had (I should have kept it and at least one of my 104s I had).

 

 

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, T-Mo said:

switch the tires around so they're now pointing in the right direction

Oh

Thank you

 

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Mows4three

T-Mo:

 

That's a nice 123.   I didn't know there was a difference in the frame widths on the IH line of garden tractors.   See that?  Learn something new on this forum every day!

 

Dave

 

 

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T-Mo
8 hours ago, Mows4three said:

T-Mo:

 

That's a nice 123.   I didn't know there was a difference in the frame widths on the IH line of garden tractors.   See that?  Learn something new on this forum every day!

 

Dave

 

 

The first few series were the narrow frames.  First was the "Cub Cadet" now known as the Original, which debuted in 1961. It was replaced in a couple of years by the 70 and 100.  Then came the 71, 102, 122, and 123.  Next was the 72, 104, 105, 124 and 125.  Next was the 73, 106, 107, 126, 127 and 147 (the first 14 hp Cub Cadet).  These were all narrow frames.  Due to the tightness of the narrow frame and anything bigger than a 12 hp engine, for the next series IH made the front of the frame wider to accommodate the bigger engines.  This is refer to as the wide frame.  First of the wide frames was the 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149 and 169 (the first 16 hp engine in a CC).  From then on, all the GTs from IH was wide frames.  Other than the 70 series, i.e 70, 71, 72, and 73 which were all gear drive tractors, IH used even numbers for gear drives, i.e. 102, 122, 104, 124, etc., and odd numbers for hydrostatic drive tractors, i.e. 123, 125, 127, etc.  Also note each new series jumped up in increments of twos (again except for the 70 series and the 86).  For instance, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, for the gear drives, and 123, 125, 127, etc. for the hydrostatic drives.

 

After the first wide frames were introduced, which had a solid mounted engine, IH came out with the Quiet Line series which had iso mounted engines and engine side panels.  Also, the numbering system now changed to 800 for the 8 hp model, 1000 and 1200 for the gear drive, and 1250, 1450 and 1650 for the hydrostatic drive tractors.  The last of the IH built CCs were the 82 series, 482, 582, 682, 782, and 982.  These were now red to match the IH farm tractors.

 

This page might help:  http://www.ihcubcadet.com/

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Mows4three

Thanks for all that info T-Mo.   Good reading, for sure.  

 

I'm including a couple pics from the Craig's List post for the HI Cub 123 I mentioned.  The guy wants $575 (might take less) and the machine looks very clean for what he claims is a 1965 tractor.  Must have truly been shed/barn/garage kept.  

 

Cheers!

 

Dave

 

 

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