Artmilaca 23 #1 Posted October 12, 2018 So I bought this 520h a little while ago and it's not charging. Today I decided to check it out and see what might be going on. Hard to do a spec test of the alternator because the RPM gauge is not working but just above idle I'm getting 25 volts and not wide open but at higher RPM I'm showing like 36 volts so I'm guessing the alternator's all right. Somebody messed with the wiring going to the voltage regulator it looks like one wire might of got hot and burned off and they just jury-rigged to wires together so I don't have a clue. Only one wire from the alternator is hooked to the regulator like it should be and the other one is Twisted together with another black wire that goes into a bundle down on the left rear side of the engine. Including a picture of what they Cobbed together. I guess on the bright side it appears the alternator is okay, they didn't blow that up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,796 #2 Posted October 13, 2018 The two white wires from the AC charge coil (alternator) go to the two outside terminals on the regulator. The center is DC out and should maintain around 14 volts at any RPM above idle. The tach wire is connected to the AC connection on the regulator closest to the battery and is usually a grey wire (although your appears black). Cleat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Artmilaca 23 #3 Posted October 13, 2018 (edited) 11 minutes ago, cleat said: The two white wires from the AC charge coil (alternator) go to the two outside terminals on the regulator. The center is DC out and should maintain around 14 volts at any RPM above idle. The tach wire is connected to the AC connection on the regulator closest to the battery and is usually a grey wire (although your appears black). Cleat Thanks for the info. I do have the engine manual so I knew where connections went but my concern is what initially went wrong with it. I'm a little concerned with wrecking the alternator or something else. Wonder whatever possessed them to just connect one side of the AC to the tack ? Edited October 13, 2018 by Artmilaca Additional Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,796 #4 Posted October 13, 2018 What I have done with all of mine is run a wire directly from the center DC out terminal on the regulator down to the battery cable on the starter solenoid with an inline fuse of 30A just before the solenoid connection. This removes the charge current from the trouble prone 9 pin connector from the engine to tractor. Also make sure the connectors are clean and tight, any bad connection can produce a lot of heat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 6,796 #5 Posted October 13, 2018 9 hours ago, Artmilaca said: Thanks for the info. I do have the engine manual so I knew where connections went but my concern is what initially went wrong with it. I'm a little concerned with wrecking the alternator or something else. Wonder whatever possessed them to just connect one side of the AC to the tack ? Tach needs an AC signal, usually that comes from the negative terminal on the coil but I guess Wheel horse decided to get it from another source. All of my tach's indicate quite accurately so it does work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Artmilaca 23 #6 Posted October 13, 2018 Ok I got the wires straightened out. 10 amp fuse was blown so I replaced that and now the lights, tach and everything works. No 12 volt output from the rectifier so I guess that's gone so looking for one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,169 #7 Posted October 13, 2018 Do this with the engine not running. See if you have battery voltage at the regulator DC terminal. If not try with the key turned to the run position. If still no power the regulator charge current has no way to get to the battery. That needs to be repaired. Regulators need to be turned on by battery voltage before they can regulate the charge current. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Artmilaca 23 #8 Posted October 14, 2018 11 hours ago, gwest_ca said: Do this with the engine not running. See if you have battery voltage at the regulator DC terminal. If not try with the key turned to the run position. If still no power the regulator charge current has no way to get to the battery. That needs to be repaired. Regulators need to be turned on by battery voltage before they can regulate the charge current. Garry Garry Already did the test. There is battery voltage at the DC terminal on the regulator. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
