Jump to content
Pullstart

Mrs. Pullstart

Recommended Posts

953 nut

Don't know about the track where you run, but most places would frown on using a foreign substance on the racing tires.   :confusion-confused:         Is clear coat a traction enhancer?             :laughing-rolling:

EAF84EC0-46C9-4371-9B40-15A9EB323D6F.jpeg

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

Why am I not surprised that Frank started his life on this farm with one C-clip front wheel and one bolt on?

 

It’s like this was all meant to be!

 

 

0807C4BA-8C49-4B9E-A40A-868FD7832F09.jpeg

C54D7F64-3E57-4EEB-9473-DEB232647682.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart
5 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Don't know about the track where you run, but most places would frown on using a foreign substance on the racing tires.   :confusion-confused:         Is clear coat a traction enhancer?             :laughing-rolling:

EAF84EC0-46C9-4371-9B40-15A9EB323D6F.jpeg

 

We’ll call it tire shine.... what they don’t know won’t hurt ‘em!  They’re old tires, not likely to find the track again.... but you’ll be happy to know I switched to cardboard and hangers for the clear coat step :handgestures-thumbupright:

F8DEDEF1-CF0F-4C04-99EC-3C21C21AE549.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

I tossed together a “vice” to clamp the chassis to the lift and I’ll support the transmission before I pull it.  I’m hoping the seals that @pfrederi so graciously sent me fix this leak.  It appears the draw bar has been used hard on this thing, it’s wearing into the case and plug!  I believe that’ll be remedied before I haul anything more, but for now I pulled the hitch.

 

 

 

1DD01FF6-C3A0-4877-A57F-F6EE599070DB.jpeg

794D8365-558E-46E5-AB71-81BD7BDC1327.jpeg

219B83EC-D216-45C6-B2E5-12896FDCEA6A.jpeg

AB196029-A21B-4EFA-926A-8837E2DED58F.jpeg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

I shoulda’ disconnected the other side of that hydraulic line.  It made a real big mess!  There I go thinking I’d not need the welder again.... the rear plate is cracked.  It’s definitely a better design than the flat plate on the early 60’s models!  

 

 

 

 

369ED4D7-74BC-4E08-9217-6BC43EABD5F0.jpeg

C5808E75-3529-4458-BBD4-6444AAF61244.jpeg

  • Sad 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

Maybe oughta leave that hitch off and make up a 2" receiver for it.

 

Good to catch that crack in the frame now..

You could fab a reinforcement for the area too.

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

The trans should be sealed up with new O-rings from @pfrederi and I found a brass drain plug that fits flush with the case.  I had it tipped up almost vertical then brought it back down for additional draining.

 

 Once that trans plate on the frame is welded up, I’ll be ready to start some assembly again!

 

 

 

5D17C3C1-39D2-4E6A-AFDD-4626F6061D43.jpeg

C82EA9B8-247F-400F-8FBE-C8741D45AC01.jpeg

518BD3A4-8430-47B5-9A0A-955E990BD0F4.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

I’m glad I checked again, I found another crack around a top hole too!  Yes, I realize the holes at the ends of the cracks are about 3 times bigger than they need to be.  Why 1/4”?  Because it was in the drill already!

 

 

BA607CA7-0F5F-46E4-8EA5-515A86467DD3.jpeg

0795C44D-B181-4127-AEB2-B0C3DE85E084.jpeg

B450C0C0-9151-47A4-8387-AFF0E744EC0C.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

A little grinding here and there, that aughtta do the trick!

 

 

855E5220-57B7-4C77-BD2A-1E89DA848D9D.jpeg

34B39A90-CF21-40C2-97C6-D5D0BCD3F3B6.jpeg

  • Like 4
  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

Final washing of the transmission before assembly!  I still need to grind down the frame welds, wash the chassis real good, then some clear here and there before we have a roller again.

 

 

050385EB-C3E8-46F4-9F50-C160AB3B2F5E.jpeg

47405561-5BF9-41D3-A1FC-9D56C6B70FBA.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • Heart 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

I found a broken spring.  It appears to help return the brake pedal when the motion control is pushed or pulled.  

 

A) is it crucial, could I reposition a spring to the brake rod if I can’t find a direct replacement?

 

B ) if I happen to find a direct fit replacement, where does it go?  To that 1/4-20 stud possibly?

 

 

B1F7BC62-22E6-4C50-AB56-0A19A762048A.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

The frame is ground down, scrubbed, blasted and awaiting it’s turn in the clear coat booth!

 

 

I know I keep joking around that I’m glad I convinced my wife that we need to just clear it, but man I’m glad she hollered at me when I put the first piece in the dunk tank.  Frank looks good.  I would have liked to see it cleaned up and painted real nice, but this shows the work put into the build so much more.

 

 

28139ADB-17E8-47FB-8124-334A84DD7478.jpeg

0C468877-75DC-4D24-9080-A6ED1FD8F72A.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • Excellent 1
  • Heart 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

Couldn’t leave well enough alone, I’m wet sanding as much as I can now.  It just pops so much nicer!

 

 

12AD8C7A-D82F-485B-AB61-1BFEF6A0B1D7.jpeg

772584AE-4D78-4E70-A131-5D8E3A347DA7.jpeg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
5 hours ago, pullstart said:

liked to see it cleaned up and painted real nice, but this shows the work put into the build so much more

 

Generally speaking Trina and I are both "Shiny Paint"  people.

We do have an appreciation and an understanding for the look of the patina and the originality of it.

 

I believe in this particular case that your best option is definitely to leave the patina and the welds and show off all the impressive work that you have done. I'm glad your female told you that is the way it's going to be.

 

:lol:

 

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
AMC RULES

Ditto...she's a keeper for sure.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

Oooooooooo that gloss!  I’ll keep the coats on the pump down to a minimum, but it sounds like Frank will be partially/majorly retired upon completion unless I steal him away for a few hours here or there.  With that said, I won’t be too concerned with excess heat on the pump.

 

I received a jungle shipment today of 1000-3000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and have a few things on the hood to polish up before a final coat or two of crystal gloss.

 

 

CDFF497D-BDF3-40CC-81A5-FC706C8C4E43.jpeg

22A12566-C921-4F38-AF34-E0E1B6087EE9.jpeg

044457DD-EE73-43D9-A3C7-B69DD59B9DBF.jpeg

17F87C90-70C1-44A8-9587-FB8260730923.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • Excellent 2
  • Heart 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

1000 grit shown.  Those brush strokes sure do pop now!  I’m going to try 1500 then 2000 on the “driver’s side” and see how it comes out.  

EA944CBC-7D1C-4361-837D-0ECF305E40CD.jpeg

400026E7-F39E-4433-A896-DEF289CCF91D.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

1500...  I can’t tell the difference, except a few less brush divots.

 

I’m going to ask those in the know.  Though I tag just a few, anybody with experience please chime in.  @AMC RULES?  Johson’s Paste Wax?  Should I do it now, or after a final clear?  If I apply it, how long does it last and how can it be removed if the need arises?  I probably can’t do a wax until I apply decals, can I?  @Achto?  A final coat of clear and call it done?  @953 nut ? with all your hot rodding, do you have any input?  @WHX22?  What are you doing?  I figured you don’t care about my clear coat problems! :dance:

26B15E0E-65B9-449D-A59F-B788B38A1F32.jpeg

8755C9AF-82CE-4E1F-8D2B-7667753C48C8.jpeg

0B0D33C8-B0E3-4A0D-B330-3A23BCACF6B7.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

2000 grit.... where I’m stopping on this side.  Time to start on the other side.  You can see a few spots where the clear had the runs and the 1000 cut those areas out quite well.

0AA8F859-D668-4A6B-AE50-6920C8514AEF.jpeg

658092C1-74FB-4E23-8630-A901C33195AC.jpeg

FB99A281-4C36-418A-8808-1174FBE4AFF7.jpeg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Achto
11 minutes ago, pullstart said:

 I probably can’t do a wax until I apply decals, can I?

 

11 minutes ago, pullstart said:

A final coat of clear and call it done?

 

I think that I would give it a couple coats of clear & call it good.  Wax is not suggested for at least 30 days with new paint.

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart
1 minute ago, Achto said:

 

 

I think that I would give it a couple coats of clear & call it good.  Wax is not suggested for at least 30 days with new paint.

 

See why I ask these things?  I had no idea.  Would the Paste Wax help the clear in appearance, or just protection?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Achto
1 minute ago, pullstart said:

Would the Paste Wax help the clear in appearance, or just protection?

 

Past wax does add some UV protection and helps keep other things from sticking to the paint. As far as appearance, it will help hide swirl marks that are caused by buffing and washing. Personally I'm not a fan of past wax, it's a PITA to clean out nooks and edges. I don't like the white residue that gets left in these areas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart
1 minute ago, Achto said:

 

Past wax does add some UV protection and helps keep other things from sticking to the paint. As far as appearance, it will help hide swirl marks that are caused by buffing and washing. Personally I'm not a fan of past wax, it's a PITA to clean out nooks and edges. I don't like the white residue that gets left in these areas.

 

Ok, I’m new to body work.  What is buffing and washing?  :ROTF:

  • Haha 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
8 hours ago, pullstart said:

 A final coat of clear and call it done?  @953 nut ? with all your hot rodding, do you have any input?

I think a couple light coats of clear carefully applied to avoid runs is all you need. A mirror finish isn't your objective here or you would have painted it a solid color first.

I wouldn't apply the decals until the day before you pull out for the Big Show. Air dry paints will be off-gassing solvents for several weeks and the decal can act as a barrier to that causing a loss of adhesion. 

When you apply any spray paint it is basically an atomized liquid. It reaches the surface as a bunch of droplets of paint sitting next to each-other. The wet sanding takes the tops off until there is a smooth surface. If you have not sanded through to the base coat your next step could be robbing compound (an extremely fine abrasive) followed by polishing compound (an ultra-fine abrasive). These steps smooth out the sanding marks and should produce a good reflective surface (shine) if done well. 

When Craig puts on his paste wax he is applying it to older patina finishes to preserve them. 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dells68
55 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

robbing compound (an extremely fine abrasive)

Hey Richard, I haven’t heard of this product.  Is it a little “slicker” than rubbing compounds?  Maybe lets you steal a little more shine?:laughing-rofl:  :ychain:  sorry!  Couldn’t resist!

  • Haha 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...