953 nut 55,189 #626 Posted May 15, 2019 Don't know about the track where you run, but most places would frown on using a foreign substance on the racing tires. Is clear coat a traction enhancer? 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #627 Posted May 16, 2019 Why am I not surprised that Frank started his life on this farm with one C-clip front wheel and one bolt on? It’s like this was all meant to be! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #628 Posted May 16, 2019 5 hours ago, 953 nut said: Don't know about the track where you run, but most places would frown on using a foreign substance on the racing tires. Is clear coat a traction enhancer? We’ll call it tire shine.... what they don’t know won’t hurt ‘em! They’re old tires, not likely to find the track again.... but you’ll be happy to know I switched to cardboard and hangers for the clear coat step 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #629 Posted May 16, 2019 I tossed together a “vice” to clamp the chassis to the lift and I’ll support the transmission before I pull it. I’m hoping the seals that @pfrederi so graciously sent me fix this leak. It appears the draw bar has been used hard on this thing, it’s wearing into the case and plug! I believe that’ll be remedied before I haul anything more, but for now I pulled the hitch. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #630 Posted May 16, 2019 I shoulda’ disconnected the other side of that hydraulic line. It made a real big mess! There I go thinking I’d not need the welder again.... the rear plate is cracked. It’s definitely a better design than the flat plate on the early 60’s models! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,425 #631 Posted May 16, 2019 Maybe oughta leave that hitch off and make up a 2" receiver for it. Good to catch that crack in the frame now.. You could fab a reinforcement for the area too. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #632 Posted May 21, 2019 The trans should be sealed up with new O-rings from @pfrederi and I found a brass drain plug that fits flush with the case. I had it tipped up almost vertical then brought it back down for additional draining. Once that trans plate on the frame is welded up, I’ll be ready to start some assembly again! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #633 Posted May 21, 2019 I’m glad I checked again, I found another crack around a top hole too! Yes, I realize the holes at the ends of the cracks are about 3 times bigger than they need to be. Why 1/4”? Because it was in the drill already! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #634 Posted May 21, 2019 A little grinding here and there, that aughtta do the trick! 4 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #635 Posted May 23, 2019 Final washing of the transmission before assembly! I still need to grind down the frame welds, wash the chassis real good, then some clear here and there before we have a roller again. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #636 Posted May 23, 2019 I found a broken spring. It appears to help return the brake pedal when the motion control is pushed or pulled. A) is it crucial, could I reposition a spring to the brake rod if I can’t find a direct replacement? B ) if I happen to find a direct fit replacement, where does it go? To that 1/4-20 stud possibly? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #637 Posted May 23, 2019 The frame is ground down, scrubbed, blasted and awaiting it’s turn in the clear coat booth! I know I keep joking around that I’m glad I convinced my wife that we need to just clear it, but man I’m glad she hollered at me when I put the first piece in the dunk tank. Frank looks good. I would have liked to see it cleaned up and painted real nice, but this shows the work put into the build so much more. 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #638 Posted May 23, 2019 Couldn’t leave well enough alone, I’m wet sanding as much as I can now. It just pops so much nicer! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,425 #639 Posted May 23, 2019 5 hours ago, pullstart said: liked to see it cleaned up and painted real nice, but this shows the work put into the build so much more Generally speaking Trina and I are both "Shiny Paint" people. We do have an appreciation and an understanding for the look of the patina and the originality of it. I believe in this particular case that your best option is definitely to leave the patina and the welds and show off all the impressive work that you have done. I'm glad your female told you that is the way it's going to be. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,130 #640 Posted May 23, 2019 Ditto...she's a keeper for sure. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #641 Posted May 24, 2019 Oooooooooo that gloss! I’ll keep the coats on the pump down to a minimum, but it sounds like Frank will be partially/majorly retired upon completion unless I steal him away for a few hours here or there. With that said, I won’t be too concerned with excess heat on the pump. I received a jungle shipment today of 1000-3000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and have a few things on the hood to polish up before a final coat or two of crystal gloss. 2 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #642 Posted May 24, 2019 1000 grit shown. Those brush strokes sure do pop now! I’m going to try 1500 then 2000 on the “driver’s side” and see how it comes out. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #643 Posted May 24, 2019 1500... I can’t tell the difference, except a few less brush divots. I’m going to ask those in the know. Though I tag just a few, anybody with experience please chime in. @AMC RULES? Johson’s Paste Wax? Should I do it now, or after a final clear? If I apply it, how long does it last and how can it be removed if the need arises? I probably can’t do a wax until I apply decals, can I? @Achto? A final coat of clear and call it done? @953 nut ? with all your hot rodding, do you have any input? @WHX22? What are you doing? I figured you don’t care about my clear coat problems! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #644 Posted May 24, 2019 2000 grit.... where I’m stopping on this side. Time to start on the other side. You can see a few spots where the clear had the runs and the 1000 cut those areas out quite well. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,565 #645 Posted May 24, 2019 11 minutes ago, pullstart said: I probably can’t do a wax until I apply decals, can I? 11 minutes ago, pullstart said: A final coat of clear and call it done? I think that I would give it a couple coats of clear & call it good. Wax is not suggested for at least 30 days with new paint. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #646 Posted May 24, 2019 1 minute ago, Achto said: I think that I would give it a couple coats of clear & call it good. Wax is not suggested for at least 30 days with new paint. See why I ask these things? I had no idea. Would the Paste Wax help the clear in appearance, or just protection? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,565 #647 Posted May 24, 2019 1 minute ago, pullstart said: Would the Paste Wax help the clear in appearance, or just protection? Past wax does add some UV protection and helps keep other things from sticking to the paint. As far as appearance, it will help hide swirl marks that are caused by buffing and washing. Personally I'm not a fan of past wax, it's a PITA to clean out nooks and edges. I don't like the white residue that gets left in these areas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,834 #648 Posted May 24, 2019 1 minute ago, Achto said: Past wax does add some UV protection and helps keep other things from sticking to the paint. As far as appearance, it will help hide swirl marks that are caused by buffing and washing. Personally I'm not a fan of past wax, it's a PITA to clean out nooks and edges. I don't like the white residue that gets left in these areas. Ok, I’m new to body work. What is buffing and washing? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,189 #649 Posted May 24, 2019 8 hours ago, pullstart said: A final coat of clear and call it done? @953 nut ? with all your hot rodding, do you have any input? I think a couple light coats of clear carefully applied to avoid runs is all you need. A mirror finish isn't your objective here or you would have painted it a solid color first. I wouldn't apply the decals until the day before you pull out for the Big Show. Air dry paints will be off-gassing solvents for several weeks and the decal can act as a barrier to that causing a loss of adhesion. When you apply any spray paint it is basically an atomized liquid. It reaches the surface as a bunch of droplets of paint sitting next to each-other. The wet sanding takes the tops off until there is a smooth surface. If you have not sanded through to the base coat your next step could be robbing compound (an extremely fine abrasive) followed by polishing compound (an ultra-fine abrasive). These steps smooth out the sanding marks and should produce a good reflective surface (shine) if done well. When Craig puts on his paste wax he is applying it to older patina finishes to preserve them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dells68 7,498 #650 Posted May 24, 2019 55 minutes ago, 953 nut said: robbing compound (an extremely fine abrasive) Hey Richard, I haven’t heard of this product. Is it a little “slicker” than rubbing compounds? Maybe lets you steal a little more shine? sorry! Couldn’t resist! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites