Mrs. Pullstart

[Pullstart 62,892]

Hey @Sarge, this look any better?  I think the holes still need to be closed up, but this looks so much better to me already!

 

 

[Pullstart 62,892]

[Chris G 3,296]

Tank is looking good!

[Tractorhead 9,064]

No compare, 

Looks much better than before.

[Pullstart 62,892]

6 hours ago, Tractorhead said:

No compare, 

Looks much better than before.

 

It should, and I’ll explain why....  

 

the first attempt was from me, the first time welding cast with a new to me welder.

 

the final product is from my father in-law.  He runs the welding department at a sheet metal laser shop.  I would expect that from him!  

[ACman 7,618]

....looking good Kevin. I might have missed the post but you got a smart phone   ?

 

Keep them pictures coming  !

[Pullstart 62,892]

21 minutes ago, ACman said:

....looking good Kevin. I might have missed the post but you got a smart phone   ?

 

Keep them pictures coming  !

 

Is this smart enough?  

 

 

[ACman 7,618]

2 minutes ago, pullstart said:

 

Is this smart enough?  

 

 

 

I see .... you just got smart enough to learn how to use it....  

[Pullstart 62,892]

6 minutes ago, ACman said:

 

I see .... you just got smart enough to learn how to use it....  

 

I’m halfway pulling your leg, Jeff.  We got an iPad as a source of home internet.  It’s unlimited and can stream with Bluetooth?  It is a pretty decent picture taker too...

[Sarge 3,463]

Looks quite a lot better. The whole trick with welding cast aluminum is getting the garbage out of it - any contamination in the metal will create pockets that do not flow out into clean aluminum and will create leaks. I would try to at least pressure test it before adding fuel - once it leaks gasoline through any pinholes it is a fight to get it ground out and welded solid again. I wouldn't go above 30psi on cast aluminum, there may be some thin spots in that tank and blowing it apart would be a bad deal. The fuel contains some oils, as well as other things that aluminum doesn't like - those things will create a bad weld. Prep is everything here, the cleaner you can get it before welding, the better.

 

Take a clean, new stainless steel brush and go in multiple directions across the welds - then, with a magnifying glass look very closely at any black spots left. A stainless steel pick can reveal if those spots are pinholes by scratching at them. If the black flakes off - good. If not, you have a hole. You can also use a clean flap disk on a grinder to knock down the beads flush - this will reveal any pockets that didn't fully melt and flow together at the base metal. It is pretty tricky to keep that aluminum rod within the gas envelope at all times and not let it blob itself into the puddle. It also takes a lot of power - the thickness of that tank sealing lip is going to need close to 175 amps to melt it properly at the root before adding filler. That looks like it was welded at around 60hz, is that the case?

 

Sarge

[Tractorhead 9,064]

2 hours ago, Sarge said:

Looks quite a lot better. The whole trick with welding cast aluminum is getting the garbage out of it - any contamination in the metal will create pockets that do not flow out into clean aluminum and will create leaks. I would try to at least pressure test it before adding fuel - once it leaks gasoline through any pinholes it is a fight to get it ground out and welded solid again. I wouldn't go above 30psi on cast aluminum, there may be some thin spots in that tank and blowing it apart would be a bad deal. The fuel contains some oils, as well as other things that aluminum doesn't like - those things will create a bad weld. Prep is everything here, the cleaner you can get it before welding, the better.

 

Take a clean, new stainless steel brush and go in multiple directions across the welds 

 

Sarge

 

100% agree Sarge,

And a very useful Advice with pressuretest on Top.

If i test Fueltanks, i do it with 2 meter Water Column for 5 min.

this was the sensitivest issue, to find quick out if your Fueltank is leakfree.

You once can buy such a measurement like the Shown or build simply yourself.

 

 

 

the most important thing i have learned at my Training on Aluminumwelding, allways short before Weld is clean, clean clean.

 

At my Welding training with Aluminum, we cleaned as short as possible again before Welding.

In my training i personaly preferred Stainles Steel brush for Prepare and immediately before Welding a grinding fleece.

for cleaning the seam route. For me this resulted in best seams i can made.

My trainer told me if you use a Stainless steel brush anytime for Steel, mark it as non usable for Aluminum

and get a new one.

 

While we do the Training, he get one marked brush to show me the difference,

i think it can not often enough been told, a clean Seam isn't possible with a 

 

 

Few years ago i try some Aluminum Solder, to repair an older Enginehead (sparkplug thread).

It works so far, but it was horribly complicated, to take care with the Flame, don't melt the Aluminum.

the Temp Frame between melting and solder is extremely small.

i tried first on some older parts to get a feeling for and destroy so lot of Material,

until i found the Point when it's time to solder.

On the Cylinderhead it worked and lasted (glad about) for more as 3 Years, then i sold that machine,

but a few weeks after i try again to solder a Carb and ruin it.

Depending on Cast it was sometimes very difficult to repair Casted Aluminum parts.

[Sarge 3,463]

Cast aluminum parts have a lot of contaminants in them from new - as well as a lot of porosity. Technically, you should only weld a few inches at a time before re-cleaning the weld seam to lessen the effect of the oxide layer returning and affecting the heat input. That oxide layer that forms on aluminum happens almost immediately when exposed to the atmosphere - AC high frequency is used in TIG process to break it up and allow a lower heat input to actually melt the aluminum base metal. The oxide melts at a 4-600* higher temperature than aluminum, this is why it can be so difficult to weld that material. Stainless steel scratch brushes will cut right through that oxide and expose fresh aluminum easily - but they must be clean of any carbon content. If a brush is ever used on anything but aluminum - it is junk and must not be used on aluminum prep ever again. All of mine are marked very well as - AL ONLY and are replaced often. 

 

The reason I point out any black spots in your welds is the chance there is porosity there - those black pepper looking spots are from contamination and a lack of gas coverage. Argon can be a tricky animal since it is heavier than air - so keep that in mind. When using backing purge, the argon will fill from the bottom up and push the oxygen out - keeping the weld seam at the top ensures the cleanest weld possible that is oxygen-free. Many times contaminants will float to the top of the puddle and leave solid, uncontaminated base metal underneath of it - that is fine and why I suggest using a clean, new flap disk to knock the top off the weld. If the black spots, sometimes called "peppering" is only on top of the bead, all is good. If not, you have a leak issue waiting to happen. While on that subject - the best flap disk to use is a ceramic coated type that is specifically designed for aluminum work. They will cut much faster and not load up nearly as bad as common aluminum oxide disks. Yes, they aren't cheap as most will run about $8-$10 each, but they last quite a long time. Do not bear down on them, allow the tool to do the work and you'll get the best results. Even better, look for a disk that is labeled "contaminate free" - these are required for aircraft and stainless work and will not introduce further problems into the base metal than what is already in there.

 

Here are some of my favorite disks to use on aluminum -

https://www.empireabrasives.com/cgw-4-1-2-c3-ceramic-flap-disc/

https://www.empireabrasives.com/cgw-4-1-2-calcium-coated-flap-disc-for-aluminum-t27/

 

Be aware - the calcium coated disks cut very quickly, so with thin material, you have to be very careful. One great thing about those aluminum specific wheels is the speed at which they cut when compared to common wheels made for ferrous material. On non-ferrous, these disks work much faster on cast aluminum and won't introduce problems into your work. Again, prior to welding it is a good practice to clean the metal and filler rods with acetone first - then weld it right away.

 

Sarge

[953 nut 55,243]

On 2/7/2019 at 9:53 AM, pullstart said:

Is this smart enough?  

Do you have the rotary dial like mine?

[19richie66 17,508]

Right 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Thanks Sarge for your Tips, they're very helpful.

the Issue with Acetone i heared first time.

 

Will try this at my next Aluminum Training.

Shall the Acetone applicated ahead or after grinding?

 

[Pullstart 62,892]

I used non-chlorinated brake clean to clean the filler rod, will that do the same as acetone?

[Sarge 3,463]

Removing oils and other contamination is the key here - it is a good practice to clean the parts even before grinding. This will prevent contaminating the grinding disks (especially the flap wheel types). Yes, you can just grind and weld parts - but your welds will suffer as a result in one way or another, regardless of what process is used. Cleaning the parts first, grinding/shaping them for good fit-up and cleaning again prior to welding will produce the least contamination and always the best results. You'll find the base metals melt easier, flow better and are overall easier to see the weld puddle. With TIG, you can almost never use too much argon flow but you can induce a vacuum effect that can draw oxygen into the weld - this is why there are listed parameters for argon flow rates for specific nozzle designs. It actually applies to all gas types of welding - so pay attention to that. Black, pepper-looking welds on aluminum generally mean there is a presence of oxygen - you need better argon coverage to prevent that. Screen type gas lens nozzles really help but do add some expense over the general nozzles with just the side-facing holes. 

https://www.ckworldwide.com/standard-kits.html

 

I have stopped using brake cleaners of any sort to clean metal for welding - almost every brand/style of brake cleaner leaves some slight residue and that was leading to problems that were very hard to track down. Acetone leaves absolutely no residue if you wipe the parts with enough clean rags soaked with that chemical unless the rags are contaminated. There have been plenty of videos about how clean versus contaminated the metal can be from using anything other than acetone or a cheaper alternative - denatured alcohol.

 

A serious warning about brake cleaners here - this is no joke. Any brake cleaner that contains even trace amounts of chlorine or Tetrachloroethylene can cause a reaction when the weld cone hits a pocket of wet brake cleaner or the residue left behind, especially inside of cracks. As it is burned within the argon envelope it can generate Phosgene gas - this is a chemical warfare tool used in WW1 and can disable or kill you quickly.  This is no joke - not just in the TIG process, but all welding processes

 

https://envirofluid.com/articles/tetrachloroethylene-a-deadly-danger-in-brake-cleaner/

https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/MHMI/mmg176.pdf

 

https://youtu.be/r7srRiQebq0

 

I use only acetone or denatured alcohol, period. I do not trust manufacturers and their can labels to fully disclose what they use in their products - trace amounts are allowed to a certain spec and those traces are what can seriously hurt you. I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner, outside only for de-greasing parts and never on parts that are to be welded. Denatured alcohol is really cheap and available by the gallon - although not as fast nor as effective as acetone. Yes, acetone is not good for your skin, but compatible (generally black or green) chemical gloves are cheap and can even be re-used - wear them! If you use the denatured alcohol instead, just make sure to give it time to dry. Do not use off the shelf rubbing alcohol - it can actually contain oils intended for that purpose. Hardware store grade denatured alcohol is fine and cheap - just be aware as with any type of cleaner of flammability. The worst part of catching both of those chemicals on fire is a nearly clear flame that is almost impossible to see - so use it with caution as any other chemical. 

 

Just be aware, good old Dawn dish soap and water works just as well, although it will take more time and scrubbing. This old soap and water solution is also the safest method to clean anything. Think about it - they use the stuff to clean wildlife of crude oil spills, lol.

 

I don't mean to lecture about this stuff, but welding is quite dangerous and generally not taken all that seriously. Yeah, lots of garage mechanics do this and that for years with no problems, but it only takes one time to do the wrong thing and you can pay for it with your life. No different than the risk of electric shock, burns, or poisonous fumes - you have to take these things seriously. Ventilation and solid shop practices will keep you going safely and make you work more efficiently without damaging your health - or anyone else for that matter. Any time you take on a new venture with something you're not familiar with - research it, that time spent can save you a lot of grief later.

 

Sarge

 

[Pullstart 62,892]

My father in-law told me yesterday that the tank is done, now I’ll be able to continue progress on Frank in places where it counts!  He just needs to remember to bring it home from the shop...

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Thanks for that very interesting info's Sarge!👍

[Pullstart 62,892]

Hello, Beautiful!

[Pullstart 62,892]

Well, there are enough pinholes, that I ordered a KBS Coatings gas tank repair kit to seal this up good.  It’ll be here next Friday.

[Pullstart 62,892]

I finished up the airways on the air cleaner and re-swedged it together again.  Now to find longer screws to bolt it to the carb, oil it good and install it...

[Pullstart 62,892]

Ok, body people.  I don’t prefer the way the hood fits the tank, left vs right.  I spaced the right side about 1/4” to make the bead rolls space from the tank edges evenly.  I’m thinking cut/massage the right side to fit, but I’ve never sectioned a roof line or any other  modifications to a compound bend.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,892]

7 minutes ago, pullstart said:

Ok, body people.  I don’t prefer the way the hood fits the tank, left vs right.  I spaced the right side about 1/4” to make the bead rolls space from the tank edges evenly.  I’m thinking cut/massage the right side to fit, but I’ve never sectioned a roof line or any other  modifications to a compound bend.

 

 

 

 

@DennisThornton, I have a stretcher-shrinker.  Do you think I could shrink that top bend on the right side to pull it in?

 

[953 nut 55,243]

6 hours ago, pullstart said:

 

 

@DennisThornton, I have a stretcher-shrinker.  Do you think I could shrink that top bend on the right side to pull it in?

 

           Looking at your pictures it appears that the right side of the hood is bent down at the front of the fuel tank causing the right side to stick out. Perhaps a little gentle massaging of the top on the right side will allow the end to come in on its own.

Once it fits well you may want to trim the edge with some welting to fill the gap and protect the paint.