Mrs. Pullstart

[Pullstart 62,892]

My crude Microsoft Paint doings...

 

 

[953 nut 55,243]

           You do nice work Kevin, but I think having it lower like the front weight on "Put-Put" looks better and doesn't compete with the grill.

[Pullstart 62,892]

26 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

     I think having it lower like the front weight on "Put-Put" looks better and doesn't compete with the grill.

 

I agree.  I successfully convinced my wife that I should start over too.  

[ebinmaine 67,510]

31 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

           You do nice work Kevin, but I think having it lower like the front weight on "Put-Put" looks better and doesn't compete with the grill.

 

3 minutes ago, pullstart said:

 

I agree.  I successfully convinced my wife that I should start over too.  

 

Agreed.

 

I like the idea you have in the Microsoft paint pic.

[Pullstart 62,892]

I showed Rylee this morning what I had built, she says “that looks like a trash can.”  And there we have it!   I’m a good trash can builder! 

[953 nut 55,243]

8 minutes ago, pullstart said:

showed Rylee this morning what I had built

When you ask a child foe an opinion you had better brace yourself for their brutally honest answer. Never met a Politically Correct kid and hope I never do!        

[ebinmaine 67,510]

17 minutes ago, pullstart said:

I’m a good trash can builder

So you've expanded your broad skill-set just a little bit further.

 

Awesome!

 

 

6 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

When you ask a ebinmaine foe an opinion you had better brace yourself for their brutally honest answer

 

one of the finest people I've ever known was a great friend and an awesome human being for just that very reason.

I never knew him to be crude or obnoxious or negative but if you asked him a question you had better be prepared for the answer whether it was really the one you were looking for or not.

That's also one of the reasons I get along with my honey so well.

she and I jokingly tell people that we are anywhere between 5 and 12 years old on a pretty regular basis.

more people should be open and honest like that. Might not always be easy, especially for the person who's looking for the answer.... But it's definitely the better way to go.

 

[LengerichKA88 1,883]

18 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

she and I jokingly tell people that we are anywhere between 5 and 12 years old on a pretty regular basis.

 

 

I tell people all the time that I’m just a hairy 12 year old 😂

 

id pay good money for a trashcan like that 😉😂

 

i liked the first battery box, but this one does seem to fit more. 

 

Edited October 30, 2018 by Lengerich8
Didn’t finish my thought

[Pullstart 62,892]

14 minutes ago, Lengerich8 said:

I tell people all the time that I’m just a hairy 12 year old 😂

 

id pay good money for a trashcan like that 😉😂

 

i liked the first battery box, but this one does seem to fit more. 

 

 

Next time I roll my treads down I-65, I’ll tell you what mile marker I tossed it out the window!  

[LengerichKA88 1,883]

14 minutes ago, pullstart said:

 

Next time I roll my treads down I-65, I’ll tell you what mile marker I tossed it out the window!  

Throw it out at 99, I can walk there from here 😂🤣

[Pullstart 62,892]

Switching gears for a bit, while I think of something better for the battery box.  I’ll need to customize the belt guard and I didn’t like the parking break setup.  From what I hear, it’s just a good way to tear up the insides of the transmission and pump if it gets jammed while in motion?  

 

I have a question for @19richie66 or @daveoman1966, or anyone else who knows these sunstrand transmissions:  What lever position activates the parking break on the trans?  I assume up is engaged, down is free? I want to set it in the free position and put a solid link in place.  

 

I modified the tensioner and the motion control lever a bit, now I can begin working on the belt guard.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,892]

Used a ball end mill and clearances a groove for the lift cable to pass under the seat spacer.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,892]

Well @953 nut it looks like I’ll still be able to run the deck under this with the big wheels.  I might need to adjust the lift link to reach the ground of course!

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,045]

Is there a reason you have the idler pulley below the bottom span of belt? It is usually above the top span.

 

Garry

[Pullstart 62,892]

3 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Is there a reason you have the idler pulley below the bottom span of belt? It is usually above the top span.

 

Garry

 

Space more than anything, I suppose.  @pfrederi pointed out that it’s usually after the load instead of before.  My thought was there will be tension regardless, so it wouldn’t matter.  BUT, I’m in the trial and error period of the build and am not opposed to reworking a bit here or there.  

[Tractorhead 9,064]

9 hours ago, pullstart said:

 

Space more than anything, I suppose.  @pfrederi pointed out that it’s usually after the load instead of before.  My thought was there will be tension regardless, so it wouldn’t matter.  BUT, I’m in the trial and error period of the build and am not opposed to reworking a bit here or there.  

 

I'll think it would working, maybe needs a bit stronger spring, because of slip.

On the other side if it must be changed, it could be solved by a pressing spring with a guide internally.

As far as i see on the Pics, the tensioner roll will short be below or at same level as the belt when it's under load.

Only the Swingarm of tensioner self, seems to be a bit to short therefore.

 

 

 

 

[Pullstart 62,892]

2 hours ago, Tractorhead said:

 

I'll think it would working, maybe needs a bit stronger spring, because of slip.

On the other side if it must be changed, it could be solved by a pressing spring with a guide internally.

As far as i see on the Pics, the tensioner roll will short be below or at same level as the belt when it's under load.

Only the Swingarm of tensioner self, seems to be a bit to short therefore.

 

 

 

 

 

 

That’s a good idea Stefan, maybe I’ll have to upgrade to a pump driven hydraulic tensioner like timing belts in cars   

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,045]

As a load is applied to the belt the bottom span will get real tight and the top span will get looser.

With the idler on the bottom that will apply a lot of pressure on the idler and the spring holding it there will lose it's tension as the idler is pushed down by a tighter belt.

With the idler on the top the spring only has to take up the lose belt that the increased load generates.

 

A V-idler inside the belt at the bottom would still get a lot of pressure but the spring tension would increase in your favor. Problem with that is the amount of belt in the pulley grooves is reduced and increases the chance of belt slippage.

 

A belt guard must support the tight or drive side of the belt when the belt is loose for the clutch to be effective. Doing so leaves the top span of belt with lots of slack so it leaves the engine pulley and ceases to drive.

 

Garry

[Pullstart 62,892]

I’ll plan to change this as soon as I get out to the shop again, thanks again for the explanations guys!

[Pullstart 62,892]

@gwest_ca, @pfrederi, this look a little better?  I’ll extend the tensioner bracket to get to the pulley.  Working with my new tractor pallet on the lift!

 

 

 

 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

Looks much better,

wish to have a workshop like you.

so i allway's must wait for bigger changes.👍

 

[Pullstart 62,892]

[Pullstart 62,892]

Belt guard work...  starting with Charger 12, contemplating using the 753 tin too.  I like the indentation for a “1073” decal and I think the overall shape would be period correct.

 

 

 

 

[Pullstart 62,892]

Now, I know I just said period correct, but I’m committing a crime even posting these next pictures.  I think I want to use floor boards.  I want to keep this comfortable and easy to use / get on and off.  I know they don’t look great the way the are and they don’t even fit with the big wheels, but I’m up for suggestions. Narrow them?  Cut the back off and use just the bottom surface?  Both?

 

 

[Pullstart 62,892]

Using some tape as a reference, you can see the interference between the tire and floorboard.  Without the upper “fender” support bar, there is a lot of deflection with me stepping on it, I’d need to add a rear support under the bottom, but I’m leaning towards using the bottom only instead of narrowing them up to clear the tire.