Torrence20 19 #1 Posted October 2, 2018 I plan on adding some weight to the rear of my 310-8 how much weight is too much weight for one of these little tractors gear drive hi/low. Will be mostly pulling a wagon full of wood up some pretty steep hills. With tire chains. Might put a plow or blower on it down the line. Want the maximum amount that won’t destroy anything Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,081 #2 Posted October 2, 2018 If you add weight to your tires (wheel weights and loaded tires) it will add traction and stability. Any weight you add this way will have hardly any impact on your axles and bearings. This chart will give you an idea of the weight RV Antifreeze will give your tires. SIZE GALLONS Per Tire WEIGHT in POUNDS 16x6.50-8 2.0 21.4 18x7.00-8 3.0 32.1 18x8.50-8 3.4 36.4 18x9.50-8 4.0 42.8 23x8.50-12 5.5 58.9 23x10.50-12 6.8 72.8 6-12 3.6 38.5 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torrence20 19 #3 Posted October 2, 2018 Thanks. I’m planning on adding wheel weights I’ve never been a fan of filled tires so I’m going to opt to keep mine dry 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cschannuth 3,816 #4 Posted October 2, 2018 Methanol antifreeze works great. It actually protects the wheels and tires. I put it in my '97 520 when it was new and they looked like new inside 20 years later. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,619 #5 Posted October 2, 2018 (edited) Tire spin can be a fuse.Off road enthusiasts look at the weakest link failing and plan for the easiest part to change in the field if failure occurs.Thus a fuse.If you have 1" axles on this 310 it has the weaker 4 pinion transaxle.It can pull a cart loaded with wood but be aware of its limitation.Chained up and loaded with weights might risk transaxle damage if you get to carried away. Edited October 2, 2018 by JAinVA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #6 Posted October 2, 2018 6 hours ago, Torrence20 said: never been a fan of filled tires I'm curious to know why. Calcium chloride we all know can and will corrode steel. Do not use it. Most of us use rv antifreeze or windshield washer fluid. Other things are available for additional costs. Fluid filling is the best way to keep the weight on the ground where you need it... And off the tractor where you don't. It physically pushes down across a more even section of the tires literally squeezing the rubber to the ground with much less concern for proper inflation creating an equal amount of ground pressure throughout the tire contact area. I use my 1974 B80 just as you are looking to do. I have 4 oversized tires, all filled with rimguard. I also have another 100 pounds of steel weights. My tractor weighs around 925 pounds. The rear of mine is AG's. I can't speak for chains yet but I do certainly agree with the above statement by @JAinVA. You need a weak link in the drivetrain. We live on a mountain side and I have pulled well over a thousand pounds more times than I can count with this tractor. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torrence20 19 #7 Posted October 2, 2018 2 hours ago, ebinmaine said: I'm curious to know why. Calcium chloride we all know can and will corrode steel. Do not use it. Most of us use rv antifreeze or windshield washer fluid. Other things are available for additional costs. Fluid filling is the best way to keep the weight on the ground where you need it... And off the tractor where you don't. It physically pushes down across a more even section of the tires literally squeezing the rubber to the ground with much less concern for proper inflation creating an equal amount of ground pressure throughout the tire contact area. I use my 1974 B80 just as you are looking to do. I have 4 oversized tires, all filled with rimguard. I also have another 100 pounds of steel weights. My tractor weighs around 925 pounds. The rear of mine is AG's. I can't speak for chains yet but I do certainly agree with the above statement by @JAinVA. You need a weak link in the drivetrain. We live on a mountain side and I have pulled well over a thousand pounds more times than I can count with this tractor. So you have duals on the back of yours? Did you fab a different hitch for it or do you use the standard drawbar it came with? I would be concerned that kind of weight on mine would lead to a drawbar failure I haven’t looked really close at it but I think it’s just a pin that goes thru a cast parts of the axle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #8 Posted October 2, 2018 24 minutes ago, Torrence20 said: So you have duals on the back of yours? Did you fab a different hitch for it or do you use the standard drawbar it came with? I would be concerned that kind of weight on mine would lead to a drawbar failure I haven’t looked really close at it but I think it’s just a pin that goes thru a cast parts of the axle Not duals, no. I didn't clarify that. What I have is four tires all the way around that are larger than stock and all are fluid-filled. On my tractor there is 255 pounds of fluid weight, alone. I do have the type of receiver hitch that bolts to the square 2 inch axle tubes. There is a vendor here on redsquare that sells an extremely heavy duty version of a hitch that does both. It goes through the Cross Pin that you're talking about and also bolts to the 2-inch Square tubes as mine does. ************* Please pay very special attention to this next piece. Your your concern with that tractor is not how much you can pull. It is how much you can STOP. There is only one little brake drum on these tractors. That's not enough to be going downhill or losing control going uphill while Towing something extremely heavy. I limited myself to a certain size of trailer for that very reason. I feel comfortable on my tractor, on my land, with me driving, with the way that I've built things. You have to be certain that you feel the same way with your own situation. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,582 #9 Posted October 2, 2018 related but not mentioned , change your rear end / transmission gear oil , and keep it fresh, new shift boot. that will help insure the gearing will keep up with your weight work out. pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 38,022 #10 Posted October 2, 2018 This has been discussed in depth before where bearing life expectancy charts at various loads and RPM have been posted. I have not been able to retrieve the post, but I believe the conclusion was at the low RPM of the axles in these tractors, the radial load was not a significant factor in the expected bearing life. As stated above, the real concerns when towing heavy loads should be braking and back flips. I can tell you from experience, when pulling a heavy load, it does not take much additional resistance (a small stone) to put the tractor on it's back. Maybe Garry or Richard can find you a link to the previous post on this subject. I have blown and plowed snow for many years with a fair amount of weight and have never seen a sign of bearing or axle failure. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torrence20 19 #11 Posted October 2, 2018 All very good info and as far as stopping goes I’m not concerned with in my particular situation and my trailer is about 3’ wide by 5’ long so it won’t be hauling a lot of weight and I may not even need ballast but if I decide on putting a blower on it I will. I am curious about these heavy duty hitches tho, I will have to do some searching on that Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #12 Posted October 2, 2018 6 minutes ago, Torrence20 said: All very good info and as far as stopping goes I’m not concerned with in my particular situation and my trailer is about 3’ wide by 5’ long so it won’t be hauling a lot of weight and I may not even need ballast but if I decide on putting a blower on it I will. I am curious about these heavy duty hitches tho, I will have to do some searching on that Certainly sounds like you're prepared for about the right weight and size. My trailer is roughly 2 feet wide by 6 ft long so right around the same weight. Take a peek at Wheel Horse parts and more. Pretty sure he's the one that sells those hitches. Lowell. Wicked awesome guy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torrence20 19 #13 Posted October 2, 2018 2 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Certainly sounds like you're prepared for about the right weight and size. My trailer is roughly 2 feet wide by 6 ft long so right around the same weight. Take a peek at Wheel Horse parts and more. Pretty sure he's the one that sells those hitches. Lowell. Wicked awesome guy. Thank you, I will try to find him Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,064 #14 Posted October 2, 2018 Hi, about tyre filling, i have also seen an issue. I seen it on my last offroad event, there was a small Company, they sell a liquid, what is given in the tyres and seems to repair the tyre, if it will be stitched offroad. This was just a half filling or a quater of the tyre, but it impresses me, because the Guy drive on the show several times on a row of nails in step speed. You seen, the tyres are 100%ly Stiched, because the tyre looses airpressure. after tyre is nearly flat, he just fill up Air, and repeat with different angles the Test. even with different tyres on the car.... Front left back left, back rear and so on. i was so impressed, i spend a whole day, to see that . Each tyre will be stitched more a 5 times... -g- He just later fills up air until correct airpressure - and that's it. Because of the Show and the tricks i know about such events after the show, i observe the car until the show ends and the guy leaves the event. I want to know, if the guy will change the Tyre before he drive away back onroad, but he doesn't. he just veryfied once again the correct air pressure and then he drive away. I found this very impressive. On the show i held a pack of that fluid, in my hands- it weights about 16 pounds/ galon. Independently i don't like tyre quickrepair products, but that what i have seen i seems Curious. I don't trust any promises of an Advertising Show, i want to see my own evidences. In that case i was impressed. sorry don't remember actually the name of product, but it was also be usable in Winter. i just remember it was a green Fluid with black spots... and it was usable for tubless tyres or tubetypes. regards stefan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,667 #15 Posted October 2, 2018 14 minutes ago, Tractorhead said: Hi, about tyre filling, i have also seen an issue. I seen it on my last offroad event, there was a small Company, they sell a liquid, what is given in the tyres and seems to repair the tyre, if it will be stitched offroad. This was just a half filling or a quater of the tyre, but it impresses me, because the Guy drive on the show several times on a row of nails in step speed. You seen, the tyres are 100%ly Stiched, because the tyre looses airpressure. after tyre is nearly flat, he just fill up Air, and repeat with different angles the Test. even with different tyres on the car.... Front left back left, back rear and so on. i was so impressed, i spend a whole day, to see that . Each tyre will be stitched more a 5 times... -g- He just later fills up air until correct airpressure - and that's it. Because of the Show and the tricks i know about such events after the show, i observe the car until the show ends and the guy leaves the event. I want to know, if the guy will change the Tyre before he drive away back onroad, but he doesn't. he just veryfied once again the correct air pressure and then he drive away. I found this very impressive. On the show i held a pack of that fluid, in my hands- it weights about 16 pounds/ galon. Independently i don't like tyre quickrepair products, but that what i have seen i seems Curious. I don't trust any promises of an Advertising Show, i want to see my own evidences. In that case i was impressed. sorry don't remember actually the name of product, but it was also be usable in Winter. i just remember it was a green Fluid with black spots... and it was usable for tubless tyres or tubetypes. regards stefan In the USA many tire repair places will not work on tires that have been filled with self sealing goop...or they charge a lot extra Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHNJ701 4,165 #16 Posted October 2, 2018 4 hours ago, pfrederi said: In the USA many tire repair places will not work on tires that have been filled with self sealing goop...or they charge a lot extra or your cleaning up the mess! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torrence20 19 #17 Posted October 3, 2018 One of the reasons I don’t like putting fluid in tires lol obviously a very different material but still I’ve been into plenty of tires that had that crap pumped in them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 9,064 #18 Posted October 3, 2018 Hi, i know about to deal with such a glued sticky broth in a Tyre. when i changed my 4 Tyres, after Pickup, there was in each of the Tyres that crap filled... it was horrible to me, to change the Tyres... all are Tubeless mounted but they was porous after the fire and after the years, but they keep the Air.... change the tyres was a feeling - like clean a giant nose..... Uaaaaaah But anyway, the Show about that Material was impressive - no doubt about it, but i never would fill such snot in any of my Tyre. Yes shure, i think about it, but if i remember the "big nose" - no, thanks..... i put in all Tyres tubes, and if a Tube is fails, just repair or change Tube and go on.... Regards Stefan 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skipper 1,788 #19 Posted October 3, 2018 15 hours ago, Torrence20 said: One of the reasons I don’t like putting fluid in tires lol obviously a very different material but still I’ve been into plenty of tires that had that crap pumped in them This is why god invented tubes 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,081 #20 Posted October 3, 2018 44 minutes ago, Skipper said: This is why god invented tubes God didn't invent tubes, he created them! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McGrew 460 #21 Posted October 3, 2018 Guys, This may be a little off topic, but I use a sealant/balancing liquid in my motorcycle. I had just put a set of new aluminum rims on my bike, and when I balanced them, the rear needed a couple ounces of lead... Not wanting to mess up the looks of this new wheel, I opted for a product called "Ride On" sold by my motorcycle shop. Not only does it balance the tires dynamically, but it also seals punctures. The bike never rode smoother, and since putting the product in, I have had no punctures. Maybe this stuff works as a nail repellent... I punctured 2 rear tires on this bike in 500 miles before finding Ride On. The manufacturer claims it works in all tire sizes up to tractor trailers, but I have only used it in my bike. I doubt you would want to use it to fill a tire, as it isn't cheap... I have replaced one tire due to wear since starting to use the stuff, and the rim was clean when we removed the tire. No sticky stuff at all. The Ride On was all inside the tire. Danny 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,403 #22 Posted October 4, 2018 6 hours ago, McGrew said: Guys, This may be a little off topic, but I use a sealant/balancing liquid in my motorcycle. I had just put a set of new aluminum rims on my bike, and when I balanced them, the rear needed a couple ounces of lead... Not wanting to mess up the looks of this new wheel, I opted for a product called "Ride On" sold by my motorcycle shop. Not only does it balance the tires dynamically, but it also seals punctures. The bike never rode smoother, and since putting the product in, I have had no punctures. Maybe this stuff works as a nail repellent... I punctured 2 rear tires on this bike in 500 miles before finding Ride On. The manufacturer claims it works in all tire sizes up to tractor trailers, but I have only used it in my bike. I doubt you would want to use it to fill a tire, as it isn't cheap... I have replaced one tire due to wear since starting to use the stuff, and the rim was clean when we removed the tire. No sticky stuff at all. The Ride On was all inside the tire. Danny When you reinstalled the tire did you match up the painted dot with the valve stem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,403 #23 Posted October 4, 2018 (edited) On 10/1/2018 at 8:16 PM, 953 nut said: If you add weight to your tires (wheel weights and loaded tires) it will add traction and stability. Any weight you add this way will have hardly any impact on your axles and bearings. This chart will give you an idea of the weight RV Antifreeze will give your tires. SIZE GALLONS Per Tire WEIGHT in POUNDS 16x6.50-8 2.0 21.4 18x7.00-8 3.0 32.1 18x8.50-8 3.4 36.4 18x9.50-8 4.0 42.8 23x8.50-12 5.5 58.9 23x10.50-12 6.8 72.8 6-12 3.6 38.5 When I had asked Collin about borrowing their valve stem adaptor to install the calcium chloride in my tires he told me they no longer use calcium or beet juice and that the suitcase weights give them better fuel economy. To find the liquid level inside your tire tap on the sidewall with a hammer just above the liquid the sidewall is spongy with a more solid thump where the liquid is. They're farming 20,000 acres so a penny saved is another one in the bank. Edited October 4, 2018 by bcgold Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McGrew 460 #24 Posted October 4, 2018 bcgold, I did not actually mount the tires, but yes, the tire shop lined up the dots with the valve stem. Still needed weight, but the liquid balance works better than any lead I have ever added. And, it rebalances itself every time I ride because the material does not become hard... Danny Share this post Link to post Share on other sites