throttle return spring

[SimonC 35]

Hi,

 

my throttle return spring is basically useless.

 

3 questions; 

 

- if I remove the throttle butterfly screw that holds the shaft in there, do I need to use loctite or similar when putting it back ? 

- I cannot find any reference online or anywhere to the model of carb I have; 676794 or 676704 (attached pic), are those springs normally standard (any link to a replacement would be great)

 

the rest of the carburetor is not in that good of a shape, I see all bunch of cheap carb around on ebay but again, none that match my part number.  Other than the throttle/choke/fuel line, can I safely replace mine with another model assuming it's built for the same engine size (10hp).

 

my current block is a sbh-225 (hh100) installed on a raider 10 (69-70) 

 

thanks

 

[pfrederi 17,617]

Buy a replacement carb. How thick is the backer plate on the thick end if it is tapered.  My HH10 had an LME 29 Carb top in picture.  Yours is an LME 30 bottom.  Note how your is shorter.  The 30 carb needs a thicker backer plate so that the throttle linkage clears the block.  I could not find an after market for an LME 29 like mine so I bought a LME 30 substitute and had to get the thicker backer plate That is why it isn't red.  if you have the thicker backer plate you should be ok with the knock off carbs.  You may have to bend the choke arm

 

[SimonC 35]

mine plate looks similar to yours, but I'll measure it.

 

I can find tons of aftermarket carb for hm100, not many for hh100, is there a difference that would make this incompatible ? 

 

thanks

 

 

[pfrederi 17,617]

1 minute ago, SimonC said:

mine plate looks similar to yours, but I'll measure it.

 

I can find tons of aftermarket carb for hm100, not many for hh100, is there a difference that would make this incompatible ? 

 

thanks

 

 

Beats me...  I wound up with this one.  Works...  If you can get a HM10 knock off cheap try it... Throat venturi should be Ok there isn't any difference for 10 0r 12 hp in Techy carbs...

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecumseh-Carburetor-HH100-115145D-HH100-115210D-HH100-115209D-631980-631304b-/123115063861?hash=item1caa3aca35

[SimonC 35]

this one is in Canada .. but very cheap if it works compared to anything else that mentions hh100

 

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01LCPBQWC/?coliid=I14I0US2TJ1EML&colid=2H4KV6TA35S23&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

wondering how while looking at it, the choke side butterfly has a chunk missing at the bottom + 2 holes punched.  would such a difference be "adjustable" 

Edited September 17, 2018 by SimonC

[SimonC 35]

what's the tiny silver hose hookup that we see on this pic, lots of new carb seems to have that, overflow protection ? 

[wallfish 16,942]

10 minutes ago, SimonC said:

what's the tiny silver hose hookup that we see on this pic, lots of new carb seems to have that, overflow protection

It's just a piece of spring to hold the choke. That's a snow blower carb and the spring holds the choke in different positions.

[SimonC 35]

Just now, wallfish said:

It's just a piece of spring to hold the choke. That's a snow blower carb and the spring holds the choke in different positions.

nah, not that, the one to the right of the idle screw

[wallfish 16,942]

This?

It's the hose connection for a primer bulb

[wallfish 16,942]

You will see these on snow blower engines.

[SimonC 35]

1 minute ago, wallfish said:

You will see these on snow blower engines.

do I need to plug this ? 

[wallfish 16,942]

Don't think so but you can get the engine running and then check it by holding your finger over it.

[pfrederi 17,617]

I think that is for later models that had pollution control.  the crankcase breather that in the old ones vented to the atmosphere now goes thru that.  just cap it off.

 

Edit.  you will definitely need the thick backer plate as the carb body is short and the throttle linkage will hit the block.  Going to take a bit of  futzing around to get the choke linkage to hook up to that long slot.  wouldn't worry about the choke butterfly itself.

 

Maybe its because you are in Canada but 2 weeks shipping???

Edited September 18, 2018 by pfrederi

[SimonC 35]

I ended up ordering this one. A few dollars more but this one wasn't shipped from China and looked a bit better. AUTOKAY Adjustable Carburetor for Tecumseh 8HP 9HP 10HP Snowblower 640349 640052 640054 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0751CGGLV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aVeOBb11ZHG0H

 

 

Also ordered a roll of gasket making material. Using gasket maker in a tube right now and I find it too messy for this size of gasket

 

Now I hope this one has better space to tighten the screws because my current one is just a plain nightmare. Can't get Phillips in line enough and I also can't get a socket or normal wrench. Pair of long nose plier is pretty much the best I could do. Just dont like when I can't tight to my liking. What do you guys use ?

 

Thanks

 

 

Edited September 18, 2018 by SimonC

[pfrederi 17,617]

Hex head cap screws with slots so I can use a Straight screwdriver to get i most the way Still looks like some work to get the choke hooked up

Edited September 18, 2018 by pfrederi

[wallfish 16,942]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

I think that is for later models that had pollution control.

It's for the primer bulb hose on a snowblower HMSK engine. Every old Teccy Snow King engine will have that tube to connect the primer which pressurizes the bowl and pushes gas into the carb throat.

[SimonC 35]

16 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Hex head cap screws with slots so I can use a Straight screwdriver to get i most the way Still looks like some work to get the choke hooked up

Yeah, I'll have to think about that one. I'll try and see how they are normally used but maybe a nut and bolt in the slot and drill a hole sideways to hook the cable. Which would make it somewhat adjustable by sliding the bolt in the slot

 

Wondering if this area gets too warm to 3d print something in ABS that could be used. 

Edited September 18, 2018 by SimonC

[pfrederi 17,617]

25 minutes ago, wallfish said:

It's for the primer bulb hose on a snowblower HMSK engine. Every old Teccy Snow King engine will have that tube to connect the primer which pressurizes the bowl and pushes gas into the carb throat.

In any event plug it and forget it.

[wallfish 16,942]

Be careful tightening them screws if you go with thick gasket material. Too tight will break off the ears on the carb from bending.

 

43 minutes ago, SimonC said:

I ended up ordering this one. A few dollars more but this one wasn't shipped from China and looked a bit better. AUTOKAY Adjustable Carburetor for Tecumseh 8HP 9HP 10HP Snowblower 640349 640052 640054 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0751CGGLV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aVeOBb11ZHG0H

Personally I would've went with the regular HMxxx carb. Those snowblower carbs are for HMSKxxx engines which are the same as the HM but spec'd for the SK (Snow King). Hence the primer bulb connection tube and the choke lever set up. You can still make it work though, just make a little bracket to bolt onto the choke lever and connect to the choke cable.

20 minutes ago, SimonC said:

Wondering if this area gets too warm to 3d print something in ABS that could be used. 

HMSKxxx carbs use an aluminum spacer to connect the carb to the engine. The engine mounting holes are angled a little on those engines and the spacer uses screws from the engine side and 14-20 nuts to hold the carb onto the spacer. I might have a spare spacer I can send you if that helps. Just use bolts from the front into the engine mount holes??? PM me your address if you want it. No charge! 

[SimonC 35]

12 hours ago, wallfish said:

and the spacer uses screws from the engine side and 14-20 nuts to hold the carb onto the spacer

 

just making sure I understand this correctly, some of the tecumseh 8-9-10hp engine have studs on the engine block side and only nuts are used to fasten the carb/spacer to the engine ?

 

as I have no idea which HH100 engine I have, looking at the parts diagram of HH100-115202D I can see the threaded on both end stud that goes into the block and the nut & lock washer to go with it.  I find this to be a better approach as it's easier to align things.  seems like that "stud" is no longer available (tecumseh 650587).  will look around.

Edited September 18, 2018 by SimonC

[wallfish 16,942]

5 hours ago, SimonC said:

just making sure I understand this correctly, some of the tecumseh 8-9-10hp engine have studs on the engine block side and only nuts are used to fasten the carb/spacer to the engine ?

Not correct. the spacer uses 1/4-20 screws from the back side of the spacer and then the spacer is screwed to the block with 1/4-20 phillips head counter sunk screws.(flat head screws)

BUT, you can use the spacer for straight 1/4-20 studs screwed into the engine then use nuts to attach the carb using regular gaskets.

 

I'll see if I can get you a picture of it

[SimonC 35]

Just now, wallfish said:

Not correct. the spacer uses 1/4-20 screws from the back side of the spacer and then the spacer is screwed to the block with 1/4-20 phillips head counter sunk screws.(flat head screws)

BUT, you can use the spacer for straight 1/4-20 studs screwed into the engine then use nuts to attach the carb using regular gaskets.

 

I'll see if I can get you a picture of it

ok, my current carb has 1inch bolt that go through the carb ears, the spacer and then screw into the block.  The spacer is not attached by itself on the block in my case.

 

pictures are worth a 1000 words in this kind of situations

[wallfish 16,942]

Oh, I didn't think you had a spacer which is why you needed thicker gasket material. Misunderstood what was written. You should be all set.

The HMSK engines have the mounting holes in the engine at an angle (like 2:00 & 7:00) which allows the spacer to be attached to the carb, then it gets attached to the engine with separate screws. Your engine could use the same spacer but the screws would just attach the way you wrote yours does now.

You can use studs and nuts to attach your carb if it's easier than using bolts or screws from the front.

[SimonC 35]

27 minutes ago, wallfish said:

You can use studs and nuts to attach your carb if it's easier than using bolts or screws from the front.

 

should I be able to find studs ? my search for far didn't return anything worth mentioning other than the part number and a picture of them.

 

thanks

[wallfish 16,942]

https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-rods

Thread pitch and length is all you need. You can always order long and cut to a specific length