PTO Clutch Assembly Questions

[CountryRock 199]

Just went through the box of PTO clutch parts that came with my GT2500s.  There's a few things that need replacing from what I can tell.  Does anything appear to be missing or not for the pto?  Main question is how do I put it all together when I get the proper parts?  Pics for reference 

Edited September 9, 2018 by CountryRock

[peter lena 8,675]

rather then explain it, its easier to get a parts look up, that will give you a detail picture of the parts in place , going from your keyway drive to your angular swing arm on outside of  pto.  a little detail on that engagement rod ,notice the angular misfit on that thrust lever to rod? a few flat washers would make that  a better working set up, along with lubrication to movement points. don't forget to lubricate the needle bearing inside the pto thrust slide, detail lube points for a smoother / quicker running pto. good luck pete

[CountryRock 199]

I have the parts diagrams to look at.  That piece in the upper left of the second picture doesn't appear to show on the diagram. That's the part I'm concerned about replacing if I need to.

[The Gman 476]

The drive pully on the motor is not right and the pully with open brearing race is not right either. Here is a pic of one of my sk486's that I haven't worked on yet. This pully is needed for the friction disk plate.

 

[CountryRock 199]

1 hour ago, The Gman said:

The drive pully on the motor is not right and the pully with open brearing race is not right either. Here is a pic of one of my sk486's that I haven't worked on yet. This pully is needed for the friction disk plate.

 

Does it make a difference that yours is a Kohler and mine is a Briggs and Stratton?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,078]

You need this info.

Garry

[The Gman 476]

I see. The gt with the briggs need a different setup.

[CountryRock 199]

49 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

You need this info.

Garry

I have that already.  I'm confused as to what that does.  Also, I wish the pictures were better.

[pfrederi 17,773]

1 is backing plate goes against the block

2 Drive pulley bearing goes against 1

3  Friction Disk goes against 2

4 Sleeve goes inside 3

5 Clamps fit in groove on 4 bolts through 3 to 2

6 slides over crank and 4

7 Bolts to PTO linkage mount (not shown)

8 PTO linkage on top Plate on frame below engine on bottom.

 

I am not sure about the snap ring maybe it holds the ball bearing in the pulley??

[CountryRock 199]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

1 is backing plate goes against the block

2 Drive pulley bearing goes against 1

3  Friction Disk goes against 2

4 Sleeve goes inside 3

5 Clamps fit in groove on 4 bolts through 3 to 2

6 slides over crank and 4

7 Bolts to PTO linkage mount (not shown)

8 PTO linkage on top Plate on frame below engine on bottom.

 

I am not sure about the snap ring maybe it holds the ball bearing in the pulley??

If 2 is the bearing that's supposed to go behind the drive pulley, I think I'm screwed then.  I can't find that part anywhere online.  I'll have to look at my other GT2500 and see how that's set up.  I already took some of the PTO parts off that in preparation for pulling the engine to work on.  

[pfrederi 17,773]

Is the bearing inside the pulley (#2) bad????

[CountryRock 199]

19 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Is the bearing inside the pulley (#2) bad????

Bearing and pulley both are shot.  It's the pulley I can't seem to find anywhere.  I'm thinking previous owner tried pulling the pulley or something.  I don't know what he used for the current drive pulley on the tractor, but it works ok, just won't work with the PTO.

Edited September 10, 2018 by CountryRock

[pfrederi 17,773]

The bearing is 6007-RS  about $50.00

[CountryRock 199]

Pulley is 106814 or 110139, discontinued from what I can tell.

[pfrederi 17,773]

1 minute ago, CountryRock said:

Pulley is 106814 or 110139, discontinued from what I can tell.

 

 

Try A to Z Tractor for the pulley  may get lucky

[CountryRock 199]

Think I looked last night and found nothing.

 

Edit: Just looked, out of stock.

Edited September 10, 2018 by CountryRock

[pfrederi 17,773]

You could switch to an electric PTO.  Did that on my C175 when I put in  KT 17 from a John Deere (no thrust bearing)

[CountryRock 199]

I just found a post on another forum while searching the number from a-to-z and apparently it's now toro 7466, about 90 to 100 dollars.  Guess I'll be ordering one in a few weeks.

[CountryRock 199]

OK, now that I got the part numbers figured out, could someone explain a little more in depth the bearing preload procedure.  I find the instructions in the service bulletin to be a bit vague and I don't quite understand them.

[pfrederi 17,773]

10 minutes ago, CountryRock said:

OK, now that I got the part numbers figured out, could someone explain a little more in depth the bearing preload procedure.  I find the instructions in the service bulletin to be a bit vague and I don't quite understand them.

  i think what you are not seeing in the TSB is you remove the PTO Pulley but not the sleeve (#4)  (The pic appears to leave the friction disk in place) Then you use a 3/8 NF Bolt and washer to push in on the sleeve and drive pulley Tighten to 5ft lbs to seat the bearing/pulley then back off and tighten finger tight plus 1/8 turn with wrench the using new set screws lock the drive pulley on the crank.

[CountryRock 199]

Ok, that makes more sense now.  Trying to look up the part numbers for the bolt and washer now.  Seems everything has been changed.

 

[pfrederi 17,773]

I think any old 3/8 NF bolt and washer that will catch the sleeve will work   Washer is $3

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,078]

7466 is 4" OD for a 1-1/8" crankshaft and no thrust bearing used with gear transmissions.

The 106814 replaced by 110139 is 4" OD for 1" crankshaft and thrust bearing used with gear transmissions.

Hydro models use a 5-1/4" OD engine pulley.

I'm wondering if a 4" OD pulley for a 1" crankshaft pulley could be bored out to take the bearing? 101875 was used on the 8hp Kohler models.

 

They want the bearing to take the thrust pressure generated by applying the pto clutch. The pto pushes on the pulley which pushes on the bearing. Then you tighten the pulley setscrews.

If you tighten the setscrews without the pto applied the pressure is put on the crankshaft when the pto is applied. That will push the crank out of the engine.

 

Garry

[CountryRock 199]

Ok.  So because there's no plate or bearing behind the pulley on the tractor now, I can just take that pulley off without doing that procedure then.

[CountryRock 199]

5 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

7466 is 4" OD for a 1-1/8" crankshaft and no thrust bearing used with gear transmissions.

The 106814 replaced by 110139 is 4" OD for 1" crankshaft and thrust bearing used with gear transmissions.

Hydro models use a 5-1/4" OD engine pulley.

I'm wondering if a 4" OD pulley for a 1" crankshaft pulley could be bored out to take the bearing? 101875 was used on the 8hp Kohler models.

 

Well that's no good then.  No Idea where I'd go to get a pulley bored out.  Jack's Small Engines shows that 7466 pulley would fit an SB-421, which I think is the same engine.