My last estate auction find. An impressively built Wheelhorse custom.

[AlexR 2,222]

That machine is in really good shape for sitting for decade's! Normally would think sitting under trees would degrade it more, guess that is not the case with this tractor.

[ebinmaine 74,407]

On 8/29/2018 at 9:34 PM, WHX20 said:

would throw some LR 6s on it just to get be a roller.

I changed the back rims/tires out for the ones off the Baby Farm tractor project so I get this one to roll.

Fronts I think I'll have to buy a new cheap set of garden cart wheels/tires.

 

I like the look of these 6/12 AG's much better than the 8.5 x 12 turfs that were on there.

 

 

[Spareparts 85]

I would bet the post in the back was for a umbrella, as far as the crank would be a simple fab job, 

check the ID of the hub nad get a cold roll bar and a couple of 90 bent in it  and drill for a pin. The hub configuration

 is designed to push the crank out when it starts, most of the cranks are 3/4" , you could get fancy with the crank and get a 

piece of tube or pipe cut a couple of short pieces off to make collars. Slide them on the crank handle and weld

on, that will let it spin, easier on the hand. That my friend is going to make an impressive TOY.

[ebinmaine 74,407]

18 minutes ago, Spareparts said:

I would bet the post in the back was for a umbrella, as far as the crank would be a simple fab job, 

check the ID of the hub nad get a cold roll bar and a couple of 90 bent in it  and drill for a pin. The hub configuration

 is designed to push the crank out when it starts, most of the cranks are 3/4" , you could get fancy with the crank and get a 

piece of tube or pipe cut a couple of short pieces off to make collars. Slide them on the crank handle and weld

on, that will let it spin, easier on the hand. That my friend is going to make an impressive TOY.

I'll bet your dead on correct about that umbrella mount.

Thank you for the clear instructions on how to make the engine crank handle.

 

I don't have a welder but I can make do with a locking collar or something.

 

[jetmandan 29]

For a hand crank starter, maybe start with a hand drill, brace & bit? They're cheap and easy to find, you could probably fab a simple "tee" to fit into drill and starter piece. Was thinking the stainless pipe out back could be a flag holder.

 

As much as I'm a Wheel Horse fan, due to all the custom work done to make it look like a Deere, I'd keep it Green as an honor to builder.

 

Keep us updated!

Dan

[ebinmaine 74,407]

2 minutes ago, jetmandan said:

For a hand crank starter, maybe start with a hand drill, brace & bit? They're cheap and easy to find, you could probably fab a simple "tee" to fit into drill and starter piece. Was thinking the stainless pipe out back could be a flag holder.

 

As much as I'm a Wheel Horse fan, due to all the custom work done to make it look like a Deere, I'd keep it Green as an honor to builder.

 

Keep us updated!

Dan

I'd had that same thought about the drill to start. Certainly would be easier than hand Crank I suppose.

 

Not at all sure what the future color will be but right now leaning towards leaving the current patina and just freshening the rusty areas with oil.

 

 

[jetmandan 29]

This is what I was thinking for using a hand drill to start:

https://oldtoolheaven.com/brace/braceimg/b1053.jpg

 

 

 

Edited September 8, 2018 by jetmandan

[ebinmaine 74,407]

6 minutes ago, jetmandan said:

This is what I was thinking for using a hand drill to start:

https://oldtoolheaven.com/brace/braceimg/b1053.jpg

 

 

 

Love that one in particular. Millers Falls tools. I was born and raised about 30 minutes from there. Athol Massachusetts. Affectionately known as The Tool Town. Used to have Union Carbide drill bits there but that closed up about 1980. Starrett Tool company is still there.

 

Actually have a couple of those drills hanging on my wall here. That would be a really interesting period correct way to start that thing!

 

Great suggestion. Thank you!

[Sarge 3,470]

Look around for a claw nut for the crankshaft - it's a common item on old equipment and some were even special headed bolts. My old '77 Land Cruiser is equipped with one and elsewhere in the world markets Toyota included the starting handle and storage clips inside the truck for that accessory. I built my own and have tested starting that old 4.2L straight six - it's not easy, but can be done if the engine is set correctly.

 

Sarge

[ebinmaine 74,407]

@Sarge this crankshaft appears to have been custom assembled by somebody that probably knew what they were doing but that was certainly not me. Is there a way you can post a picture of a claw nut?

 

[Sarge 3,470]

Here's the old Land Cruiser type - used up until 1980 models.

 

https://fj40nut.blogspot.com/2013/05/more-engine-stuff.html

From here - https://fj40nut.blogspot.com/2013/05/more-engine-stuff.html

 

There were a lot of variations used by different engine builders over the years - the pulley claw nut on Toyotas was just another version of the same idea. Early Ford model T, ect, some VW, and plenty of vintage gasoline engines used this method to start them in case of emergency or prior to electric start being used. The idea is this - when you turn the engine over with the crank and the engine fires it will automatically disengage the nut/sleeve to prevent you from being hurt by a spinning handle. Now, that said - if the engine backfires, you're screwed and will probably end up with at least a broken wrist, arm or face...they are quite dangerous. One note about the starting method worth mentioning - in that video, you'll notice he pulls upward on that handle, you never want to rotate it downward in case the engine kicks back. Pulling up puts your body away from that handle in case of a kickback, rotating down puts you right in the firing line. There were also various methods used like recoil starters and such, many of which use the same general idea but put inside an enclosed area to avoid injury - think of a Briggs/Morse type recoil. One of the most common claw type starting nuts/bolt is used on older Lincoln engine drive welders - especially all of the older bullet nose models. I spent half a winter repairing the valves and hand starting a Lincoln with the Continental 4cyl in it - not fun and pretty hard on your back/shoulders.

 

Sarge

 

Sarge

[pfrederi 18,910]

Take a look at the front of the lower pulley. I think you already have what you need Take a Picture  Hand cranks require no welding Drill a hole and a short pin  You can see the edge of the nut in one picture cannot get any straight on shots. 

 

 

[ebinmaine 74,407]

1 minute ago, pfrederi said:

Take a look at the front of the lower pulley. I think you already have what you need Take a Picture  Hand cranks require no welding Drill a hole and a short pin  You can see the edge of the nut in one picture cannot get any straight on shots. 

 

 

Yes Paul, I believe that would work.

Should be able to pick up a piece of straight Rod at Lowe's or something.

[Stormin 9,986]

  Just a point on hand cranking. DON'T grip the handle in a fist. Just hook it with your fingers and keep you thumb along side your forefinger. That way less chance of a broken thumb or wrist if you get a backfire.

[Spareparts 85]

pfrederi nailed it and now I know what they call that part in the end of the cranfshaft pulley, Clawnut, learn something

new every time I get on here. If you noticed on the Toyota bumper that tab with the hole and the slots in it, that is for the crank

to slide thru and also support the crank, that way it wont be floping around I don't think you will have to worry about

the crank kicking back on that Briggs, looks like about a 8hp motor. That was a problem with the old tractors with pistong the size of 3lb coffee cans

Lots of broken thumbs and wrists with that going's on.

 

[ebinmaine 74,407]

1 minute ago, Spareparts said:

Briggs, looks like about a 8hp motor. That was a problem with the old tractors with pistong the size of 3lb coffee cans

It may not even be that big...

I haven't taken the time to look for numbers yet.

 

Love coffee !!!!

[Sarge 3,470]

For a time, I was building and selling the front bumper guide for the starting handle for the older FJ40 Land Cruisers - I do still have the patterns here. If you can find a spot to mount a guide, a simple piece of angle iron that can be bolted down tight to something solid will work as a guide. Just need to drill the diameter of the rod first, then use a jigsaw/fine metal blade and cut the key slots out. I finished mine with a 4-square file to match the factory Toyota. Paul nailed it - that engine already has the claw nut, that's the toughest part to find.

Also, good note about not wrapping your thumbs around the handle - even a small 8hp engine has a lot of iron rotating mass that can cause some serious damage if the timing is off and it backfires.

Sarge

[ebinmaine 74,407]

2 minutes ago, Sarge said:

something solid will work as a guide

Much appreciated Sarge.

There's already a guide built into the front of the tractor.

The original builder really did there homework and had a lot of knowledge.

[WHNJ701 4,166]

21 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Love that one in particular. Millers Falls tools. I was born and raised about 30 minutes from there. Athol Massachusetts. Affectionately known as The Tool Town. Used to have Union Carbide drill bits there but that closed up about 1980. Starrett Tool company is still there.

 

Actually have a couple of those drills hanging on my wall here. That would be a really interesting period correct way to start that thing!

 

Great suggestion. Thank you!

I have a real old vice from Athol. heavy saved it from getting crushed

[Sarge 3,470]

Great to hear. If you use a good oil quenched steel for the pin, it should work just fine. Even common A36 cold rolled would probably work on a small block single lunger.... 800lb straight sixes, not so much. I had to use oil quenched finished drill rod on my handle, bent 4 different pins before I got the engine to turn over on The AntiChrist (FJ40).

 

Sarge

[ebinmaine 74,407]

21 minutes ago, jabelman said:

I have a real old vice from Athol. heavy saved it from getting crushed

Awesome !!