Walt 339 #1 Posted August 22, 2018 Made a new scraper for my plow yesterday. 7 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CasualObserver 3,408 #2 Posted August 22, 2018 Nice job! Should add some life to an old blade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #3 Posted August 22, 2018 How wide is your new blade? Haven't yet but ready to use 3" flat bar, double mounting holes. Mount using the lower holes. Worn blade? Move to the upper mounting holes. Blade moves down. Worn again? Flip the blade. Go. Worn again? Blade down using the upper mounting holes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #4 Posted August 22, 2018 @Walt Looks great! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walt 339 #5 Posted August 23, 2018 8 hours ago, Tankman said: How wide is your new blade? Haven't yet but ready to use 3" flat bar, double mounting holes. Mount using the lower holes. Worn blade? Move to the upper mounting holes. Blade moves down. Worn again? Flip the blade. Go. Worn again? Blade down using the upper mounting holes. 42" I just drilled the holes and the used my jig saw with speed slowed down and squared them to fit the heads worked great. The steel cost me about 16.00 and new hardware was less than 5.00 with stainless nylock nuts. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #6 Posted August 23, 2018 1 hour ago, Walt said: 42" I just drilled the holes and the used my jig saw with speed slowed down and squared them to fit the heads worked great. The steel cost me about 16.00 and new hardware was less than 5.00 with stainless nylock nuts. Looks like 3" x 42", two lines of mounting holes makes the blade last 4x's as long. Your edge looks excellent. How thick was the flat bar? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moe1965 737 #7 Posted August 23, 2018 (edited) Wow I thought I was the only one working on a snow blade this time of year. I'm doing the same thing with mine. Good idea using the jig saw to square the holes. P.o. took it past it's limit Edited August 23, 2018 by moe1965 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #8 Posted August 23, 2018 23 hours ago, Tankman said: Haven't yet but ready to use 3" flat bar, double mounting holes. I need to build one of these sometime in the coming fall. How far apart do you put those two rows of holes? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moe1965 737 #9 Posted August 23, 2018 Mine measured 11 in. Center to center 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walt 339 #10 Posted August 23, 2018 14 hours ago, Tankman said: Looks like 3" x 42", two lines of mounting holes makes the blade last 4x's as long. Your edge looks excellent. How thick was the flat bar? Not sure I understand "two lines of mounting holes" I made my holes on a center line of the 3" width this allows me to wear it down approximately an inch before I have to flip it to wear out the second edge. Never mind It just hit me what you mean not sure if it would actually get me any more wear with my mounting holes being so close to the edge with how much of original material is worn away posting a pictures of back side of my blade. In the 3 pictures you can see how worn the plow is and as long as I keep an eye on it I should be able to keep from wearing away any more of the plow. I made this one with 3" hot rolled stock, I had debated going with 4" and I may switch to 4" cold rolled depending on how quickly it wears away. It would be nice to know if the cold rolled lasts 3 times as long since it's 3 times the price of hot rolled. 1 hour ago, moe1965 said: Wow I thought I was the only one working on a snow blade this time of year. I'm doing the same thing with mine. Good idea using the jig saw to square the holes. P.o. took it past it's limit Your plow is worn past where mine is worn too I still had the original holes to use for transferring hole locations to the flat stock. It may be beneficial to weld a piece of flat stock to the face to extend plow to recreate the mounting holes Or you may even go so far as to cut the plow back to the square tubing and use a piece of angle iron welded to bottom the square tube to reestablish the mounting holes. 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: I need to build one of these sometime in the coming fall. How far apart do you put those two rows of holes? Based on my blades original hole locations I worked from center of blade outward using a center distance of 9.5" or 9 and 1/2 inches center to center for hole locations they fit perfectly on my blade at that distance. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walt 339 #11 Posted August 23, 2018 Oh and I used a piece of flat stock .250 thick 3" wide 48" long and cut off 6" from length that I may later use to replace and repair the plows skids. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,710 #12 Posted August 23, 2018 I just drilled holes for the bolts and used "Stove Bolts"...rounded head, slotted head, and no screwing around with square holes. No using tools I did not have. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,028 #13 Posted August 23, 2018 4 hours ago, moe1965 said: Wow I thought I was the only one working on a snow blade this time of year. I'm doing the same thing with mine. Good idea using the jig saw to square the holes. P.o. took it past it's limit You don't want to be workin on a blade when the snows flying! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moe1965 737 #14 Posted August 23, 2018 The mounting holes that held the cutting edge I had to replace with a small piece I welded to the blade. I will be drilling holes to attach the cutting edge. I'm using a piece that is 3/8 thick it should last me my life time I hope 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #15 Posted August 24, 2018 7 hours ago, ebinmaine said: I need to build one of these sometime in the coming fall. How far apart do you put those two rows of holes? 3” flatbar mounting holes, 1” from the bottom of flat bar, 1st row. Second row, 2” from bottom of the flat bar. 1” center to center. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,277 #16 Posted August 24, 2018 4 hours ago, stevasaurus said: I just drilled holes for the bolts and used "Stove Bolts"...rounded head, slotted head, and no screwing around with square holes. No using tools I did not have. I've used square or triangular files to make the holes square. Nice idea using stove bolts for this application!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,463 #17 Posted August 25, 2018 Just fyi - hot rolled steel is pretty soft in comparison to cold rolled. 1018 works good for a basic scraper, but if you really want it to last and be capable of cutting the ground better try something like 1055 or 1075. There is a seller on Ebay putting up pre-beveled pieces of 1055 high carbon steel for a pretty sweet price, that bevel is not cheap to do. He has various sizes and thickness as well - I used either a 3/8" or 1/2" (can't remember) piece that was 60" long for rebuilding the blade on the D180. It was the most cost effective solution to repair the 56" blade and the thing works excellent. It cuts through frozen snow/ice/dirt & rock easily with no signs of wear yet despite the number of hours I've abused it. Sarge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
