Al C. 1,428 #1 Posted August 20, 2018 This year I changed the brand of oil I’m using in my Wheel Horse 1067 8 - speed transmission. I have started getting small leaks around the rear axle seals - about a teaspoon of oil a month. Can it be related to the new brand of oil? I had formerly used Coastal and Lucas SAE 80W-90 Gear Oil with no problem. This year I’m using Traveller SAE 85W-140. Any thoughts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,886 #2 Posted August 20, 2018 (edited) Maybe after 51 years the seals got tired??? I notiice you have some sort of extension on your fill plug..how much oil are you putting in. Maybe over filling it???That extension would bring the oil level right up to the seals..... Edited August 20, 2018 by pfrederi 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JAinVA 4,623 #3 Posted August 20, 2018 If you had put something like 30w oil in I would say yes.More likely the seals are just old and tired.The seals can develop leaks over night with no change of oil brands. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,869 #4 Posted August 20, 2018 @pfrederi That oil extension is factory. They use them with the 10 pinion limited slip differentials to do exactly what you are saying...to raise the oil level a little more to better lubricate those floating pinions and that pesky spring. He has the 5060 transmission there. You want to put in enough oil until it starts to run out of the top of that extension. Maybe your oil level was low before you changed it. Jack up one side and change out your seals. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,886 #5 Posted August 20, 2018 That is interesting. All of my 10 pinions were in hydros so they were deep in the fluid. Got me thinking i put a 10 pinion in a newer 8 speed awhile back guess I should put on an extension like this. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,869 #6 Posted August 20, 2018 I think they are just 1" extensions Paul. That extension is the 1st clue for the 10 pinion LSD. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,822 #7 Posted August 20, 2018 6 hours ago, Al C. said: started getting small leaks around the rear axle seals - about a teaspoon of oil a month. Like @stevasaurus said, your transaxle is probably full now and was a bit low before. With that small an amount of leakage I think I would just monitor it while the leaking oil works it's way into the hubs making them easier to remove later. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Al C. 1,428 #8 Posted August 20, 2018 I appreciate everyone’s response. The seals are original. Where can I find information on how to replace them? I’ve taken apart and refurbished almost every part of the tractor, but I’ve never worked on the transmission. It’s a “black box” to me. Do I need to have it done by a professional mechanic? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,886 #9 Posted August 20, 2018 Not at all. you can do it easily. Getting the hubs off may be the only difficult part. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,822 #10 Posted August 21, 2018 As Paul said, if you can get the hubs off the rest is a snap. Use some wet/dry sand paper or a fine file to remove any roughness from the axles and key-ways. BE SURE THE SHAFT IS SMOOTH OR IT WILL RUIN THE NEW SEAL. Use an awl to poke a hole in the metal outer ring of the old oil seal and pop it out. lubricate the axle shaft with oil silicone or lithium spray. Carefully slide the new seal onto the shaft and slide it all the way onto the shaft. Being sure the seal is square to the shaft slide the hub up to the new seal and tap on the hub with a hammer handle to drive the seal in flush with the axle housing. Put the key in the slot and slide the hub onto it and tighten the set screws. That is all there is to it. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Al C. 1,428 #11 Posted August 21, 2018 Thanks much !!! Really appreciate it. I know the hubs are going to be a challenge. They come foward only half their depth. The key slot on each hub is worn to a size twice the width of the key. So I may use this as an opportunity to replace the hubs. The newer hubs have two set screws which I image will secure them more tightly and prevent wear. Probably won’t start this project for a couple weeks, but will post pics when I get underway. Thanks again! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,869 #12 Posted August 21, 2018 I use a tool that is used to pull out carter pins. remember the seal is only 1/8" thick. Tool is lower right. I would try to tap the hubs inward 1st and try to file the end of the axle, rather then try to pull the hubs over any burrs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Al C. 1,428 #13 Posted August 21, 2018 Steve, I really appreciate this! I get the tool you improvised for pulling the hub. Help me with the tool in the lower left of the picture. What do you use it for? (First-timer, here!) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,886 #14 Posted August 21, 2018 cotter not carter 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,822 #15 Posted August 21, 2018 7 hours ago, Al C. said: Help me with the tool in the lower left of the picture. What do you use it for? It is a bearing puller that can be used from the inside or outside of small bearings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,869 #16 Posted August 22, 2018 It's a Carter Pin removal tool...the other was a TV show...Welcome Back Cotter. The other puller is a little large for pulling bearings...it is more for pulling hubs, brake drums, and pulleys. Here is an old time bearing puller..left of the bull gear. Here is a video of it doing it's thing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites