bo dawg 516 #1 Posted August 13, 2018 How do you guys prep for painting the parts of the tractors? I just want to clean up enough to rattle can it and look decent as I work it. Wire wheel, sand paper, solvents or what ever else. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,165 #2 Posted August 13, 2018 If it is going to be a worker rattle can resto I would sand it to bear metal on the fender and hood tops so you will have a nice smooth finish and use Eastwood "Paint Prep" to clean and prep any areas that are not rusted or damaged. Use self etching primer on everything. https://www.eastwood.com/ew-pre-painting-prep-aerosol-11oz.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=CjwKCAjw2MTbBRASEiwAdYIpseLC3HD8fMGxT6DHCuZkoTZdUmqyBx0CcUktZ0lXMsVbuNHUDJP81xoCZGYQAvD_BwE The final step in surface prep—PRE™ Painting Prep Removes silicone, wax, polish, grease and dirt Helps promote paint adhesion Easy spray-on, wipe-off application Proper surface preparation is one of the most important factors in helping you achieve a high-quality final finish. Our specially formulated PRE Painting Prep removes dirt, wax, polish, grease, silicone, buffing compound, even road tar, ensuring a clean surface that's ready for final painting or powder-coating. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bo dawg 516 #3 Posted August 13, 2018 16 minutes ago, 953 nut said: If it is going to be a worker rattle can resto I would sand it to bear metal on the fender and hood tops so you will have a nice smooth finish and use Eastwood "Paint Prep" to clean and prep any areas that are not rusted or damaged. Use self etching primer on everything. https://www.eastwood.com/ew-pre-painting-prep-aerosol-11oz.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=CjwKCAjw2MTbBRASEiwAdYIpseLC3HD8fMGxT6DHCuZkoTZdUmqyBx0CcUktZ0lXMsVbuNHUDJP81xoCZGYQAvD_BwE The final step in surface prep—PRE™ Painting Prep Removes silicone, wax, polish, grease and dirt Helps promote paint adhesion Easy spray-on, wipe-off application Proper surface preparation is one of the most important factors in helping you achieve a high-quality final finish. Our specially formulated PRE Painting Prep removes dirt, wax, polish, grease, silicone, buffing compound, even road tar, ensuring a clean surface that's ready for final painting or powder-coating. So you work for Eastwood? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,165 #4 Posted August 13, 2018 11 minutes ago, bo dawg said: So you work for Eastwood? No, Eastwood products work for me! I live in a very small town in the mountains of North Carolina and there are no auto finishing supply houses here so I have found Eastwood to be very good about shipping and beats a four hour round trip to pick up supplies. If you have a good supply house I'm sure they will have an equivalent product. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RandyLittrell 3,885 #5 Posted August 15, 2018 (edited) I haven't used eastwoods products but your paint is only as good as your prep. You should wipe it down with paint prep type product, you can find them in many places. Take it to the car wash and use the engine degreaser mode on the whole thing, rinse it off well. Wipe it down with paint prep before you sand and right before you are going to paint. I would use a primer sealer before paint, they have this in a rattle can. I do work in a body shop, but real paint is damn expensive these days even if you work in the industry. I use rattle cans on workers. Also, tape off as much as you can, the more time you spend, the better your paint job will be. Randy Edited August 15, 2018 by RandyLittrell 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bo dawg 516 #6 Posted August 15, 2018 Thanks guys. I do know a little about painting but wanted more so how everyone else does it with the rattle cans. I wondered what was being used to wipe down before paint. In the past I wiped down with thinner before spraying paint but still had crap in the surface. I also needed to know how far to go on sanding and with what sandpaper is best to use. I like for it to look good but I can face facts I’m not the one to work so hard on taking back to bare metal to get a less than perfect paint spray job. Lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RandyLittrell 3,885 #7 Posted August 16, 2018 Well are you going to da it or hand sand it? If you are going to use a DA, you want to use 320 before painting and that assumes you are going to use a sealer, which I recomend you do. If hand sanding I would use 400 and wet sand it. If you use thinner it will soften the paint and lint can come off your rag into the paint. You need to use a prep sol. Go to any store that sells automotive paint and ask for it. If they have a second (cheaper) line of paint that will work just fine. When done sanding, blow anything left in the cracks and crevices out. Tape it all off, wipe it down with prep sol, use a tack rag and then go to painting. The cleaner the better! Randy 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bo dawg 516 #8 Posted August 16, 2018 1 hour ago, RandyLittrell said: Well are you going to da it or hand sand it? If you are going to use a DA, you want to use 320 before painting and that assumes you are going to use a sealer, which I recomend you do. If hand sanding I would use 400 and wet sand it. If you use thinner it will soften the paint and lint can come off your rag into the paint. You need to use a prep sol. Go to any store that sells automotive paint and ask for it. If they have a second (cheaper) line of paint that will work just fine. When done sanding, blow anything left in the cracks and crevices out. Tape it all off, wipe it down with prep sol, use a tack rag and then go to painting. The cleaner the better! Randy Not sure what DA means Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RandyLittrell 3,885 #9 Posted August 16, 2018 Dual Action sander is used in the body shop to remove paint and prep for paint. They sell an electric version at harbor freight. Randy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,165 #10 Posted August 17, 2018 22 hours ago, RandyLittrell said: Tape it all off, One little tip for painting is to tape some cardboard from behind on all edges, this will prevent the spray along the edge from swirling back and giving a dry look to the edge. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RandyLittrell 3,885 #11 Posted August 17, 2018 1 minute ago, 953 nut said: One little tip for painting is to tape some cardboard from behind on all edges, this will prevent the spray along the edge from swirling back and giving a dry look to the edge. Yes, good tip. Its really hard to give advice online. Never know how much info to throw out there. Randy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bo dawg 516 #12 Posted August 17, 2018 Love the tips! thanks guy's. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #13 Posted August 28, 2018 Some basics: Wherever you want the paint to stick: Clean! Clean!! Clean!!! Sand or Scuff up Sand or Scuff up! Rust needs removing (preferred), or special treatment. Prime bare metal. Paint won't hide the flaws. Paint will find the flaws! Dust and flying insects are painters enemies. Spray as wet as you can without running, especially the final coat and remember, a run here or there is Much preferred over an overall dry paint job without a single run! There's still hope when something goes wrong with the final coat if everything else is fine. 600 and up wet or dry, paint files and buffing compounds might be able to save the job. Prep is FAR more important if you want a good looking job that will last. Anything skipped or overlooked will return to haunt someone! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
