Lane Ranger 10,992 #1 Posted August 3, 2018 My neighbor changed a bad Sunstrand automatic transmission in his B 100 to a better one. However he has been having a very noisy grinding noise when engaging the transmisison movemetn lever. I thought it sounded like a bad Bendix on the starter locked up on the flywheel. He removed the starter and the starter bendix looked fine. I was searing on Red Square regarding automatic parking brakes ( which I know very little about as I have only driven two or three automatics for a short time) I saw this comment posted by Sarge in 2017. Is there an adjustment to the Sunstrand parkingbrake linkage?? Sarge posted this in 2017 regarding a change someone was making on a Sunstrand transmission on a Wheel Horse. I saw this comment posted by Sarge in 2017. Is there an adjustment to the Sunstrand parking brake linkage?? Or are pre and post 1975 Sunstrand automatic transmission different on the parking brake linkage? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,886 #2 Posted August 3, 2018 (edited) There were two parking brakes systems on Sundstrands. Early ones (all hydro gear and early piston to piston) had internal parking pawls not really adjustable and probably not working anyway from prior abuse. Some later piston to piston units had a brake drum on the end of the hydro motor with a band brake set up very similar to the gear trannies. Which do we have here? Not sure either one would make the noise. More likely is a bad idler pulley.... Edited August 3, 2018 by pfrederi 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #3 Posted August 3, 2018 2 hours ago, pfrederi said: Some later piston to piston units had a brake drum on the end of the hydro motor with a band brake set up very similar to the gear trannies. I thought I saw one of those. I was beginning to think I imagined it. Wish I knew where to find a couple... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,823 #4 Posted August 3, 2018 1 hour ago, roadapples said: I thought I saw one of those. I was beginning to think I imagined it. Wish I knew where to find a couple... If I was replacing any Hydro I would go for an 1100 Eaton. @19richie66 did that on his GT-14 and it is a winner. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,981 #5 Posted August 4, 2018 The parking paw on my 1974 was bad. Most of the teeth were sheered off so when I opened my trans the teeth were in the pan but it did take out one bearing. I ground it off smooth . I said it then and I'll say it again (BAD DESIGN ). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #6 Posted August 4, 2018 56 minutes ago, 953 nut said: If I was replacing any Hydro I would go for an 1100 Eaton. @19richie66 did that on his GT-14 and it is a winner. I just meant adding the brake. Hadn't heard about Richie doing this. Could you put an 1100 in a 74 C160? Thanks. Didn't mean to hijack the thread.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,823 #7 Posted August 4, 2018 1 minute ago, roadapples said: I just meant adding the brake. Hadn't heard about Richie doing this. Could you put an 1100 in a 74 C160? Thanks. Didn't mean to hijack the thread.... Six bolts and some linkage and you will be in business! Check out Richie's post. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,992 #8 Posted August 4, 2018 pics of the old B 100 transmission. No pic right now of replacement available. I will get by Sunday and post. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,522 #9 Posted August 4, 2018 (edited) I also had to run a shorter belt. I think the eaton pump sits a little closer forward than the sunstrand. Also the brake pedal linkage took a little shortening/rethreading but I have full braking abiltity and it returns to neutral like it should. It took some work and head scratching but well worth it. There will be an eaton 1100 going in my wife’s 1054 too. Gathering parts at the moment. I plan on doing a small write up with pictures when I do it. (After looking at the pictures above, I believe the pump drive pulley may be a tad smaller diameter on the eaton. I’ll try to get a measurement ) Edited August 4, 2018 by 19richie66 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,463 #10 Posted August 4, 2018 The parking pawl in the later C models and others from '73 onward used a set of teeth to engage the main gear - these were much stronger but could still be stripped if someone put it in park while moving. That series Sundstrand piston to piston type was the best hydro made, in my opinion. I'm not much of a fan of the Eaton system, they take far too long to warm up and don't seem to have the hydraulic grunt of the Sundstrand. As to the grinding noise when engaging the hydro unit - that is from a very badly worn linkage arm. That arm does two things at once - it engages the tension pulley on the drive belt, plus it also releases the parking pawl. On those later model piston to piston units there is a lever on the pawl shaft that actuates the internal part. On the linkage arm there is a stud that moves the lever down to engage the pawl with a spring to return it to an open position to allow the internal gears to move. If the spring is missing, the thing will ratchet loudly until it breaks the teeth off inside, which is a bad amount of damage. It's all in the manual for the B & C series tractors, also showing all the parts in the illustrated parts list. I've rebuilt the teeth on one pawl by welding them up, then grinding them to fit again - another I had just ordered a new park pawl. Sarge 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,992 #11 Posted August 4, 2018 Thank you Sarge! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,886 #12 Posted August 4, 2018 Another thought. The pin that actuates the parking brake (circled in yellow) will wear. The parking brake arm (blue) it moves will wear a deep groove in the pin thus the brake arm may not move enough to completely disengage the parking pawl 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,992 #13 Posted August 5, 2018 The picture helps a lot Paul! Thank you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,463 #14 Posted August 5, 2018 Yes, that is a great point and I've had to weld up every C series pin and arm I've owned to get them back to their original size. I forget a lot of times of all the repairs I've done to these machines, things are just fixed as I find them and they are put back into service immediately. I seem to recall now there is also another wear area on that arm, right behind the pulley - similar to the wear issues of the older style Sundstrand arm system....? Might be the hole where the arm pivots, think I welded it and added a bronze bearing... Sarge 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,992 #15 Posted August 8, 2018 Took some more parts off the “donor” parts tractor B 100 automatic for possible reuse by my neighbor on his B 100 with replaced transmission. Some of these parts are well worn as pfredi and Sarge have noted above. The engagement lever piece has one stud well worn on one side. The brake Prawl lever also shows a worn edge o the metal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,886 #16 Posted August 8, 2018 That is a pretty serious bend in the brake arm... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,522 #17 Posted August 8, 2018 Off camber braking 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,463 #18 Posted August 11, 2018 Those parts are exactly what I was talking about - 1/16" 7018 welding rods and a grinder will fix those in short order. I used the tig on the last set with ER80SD2 - seems to keep the wear down to a minimum. Sarge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lane Ranger 10,992 #19 Posted August 11, 2018 Thanks Sarge! Your comments have been very helpful to us. I think now that putting the old pump and motor from the original B100 transmission on the replacement transaxle may be in order as we know they were good and worked well. Not sure how complicated that would be to do but draining the fluid and removing the pump and transmission motor ought to be doable. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites